Howdy all.
I have a few questions about short draw lengths that I hope you guys can help with.
First, if a bow is marked say 70@28 how much would that bow weight at draw lengths of 27,26,25? Also would the bow that was tillered for the long draw of 28 perform less optimal for a shorter draw length.
My next question concerns hunting scenarios. If two people go out hunting one with a bow marked 50@28 and another with 50@26 would the shorter draw have a disadvantage?
Meaning would this archer have to have a heavier arrow to pack more of a punch to make up for less of a draw length?
I've been doing my readings through the forum and these thoughts have been on my minds for a while now.
Thanks for the time guys.
Most bows lose or gain around 2.5#-3# per inch of draw under or over 28" so a bow that is 70# @ 28" will be 67@27, 64@26, and 61@25. As for the draw length a longer draw creates a longer power stroke on your arrow. This means that even at the same draw weight you are getting more force at 28" than at 26".
So how does one compensate for that shorter power stroke?
Would a heavier arrow be the answer?
get a shorter bow,you always want to get the most out of the limbs,a longer bow with a shorter draw,you're not getting the same out of the limbs..If you ever notice,someone can be shooting 54lbs at they're draw length for example,the longer draw always get faster arrow speed than a shorter draw at 54lbs..I'm in that boat,my draw is about 26 1/2" so most of my bows are 58lbs@28 or 60@28 because at my draw length I'm only shooting 52-54 lbs..
Adding arrow weight could help, but the best way to make up for a short draw is to shoot more weight. If you're talking about improving the performance of a specific bow, there are a few things you can do.
Let me provide an example for you. Before I do, though, I'll say that, regardless of the setup, is that a perfectly flying arrow, a razor sharp broadhead, and being able to place it in the right spot are, without a doubt, the most important things to consider when hunting. And remember that little changes will require retuning your bow.
Now, let's take a Hill style longbow, 50#@26", with a B50 string. Such a bow will be on the slower side of bows in that weight simply because of the design. However, with a 10 grain per pound arrow (500 grains) and a razor sharp broadhead, it's more than enough power to hunt small game, whitetails, mulies, average-sized hogs, and even elk. It has more than enough oomph to shoot clean through a whitetail.
If you wanted to increase the performance of that bow, the first thing you could do is add a skinnier string. This, in and of itself will add speed to your existing arrow, or it will allow you to shoot a heavier arrow at the same speed.
If you wanted to additionally maximize your penetration, you could add arrow weight. There is a point of diminishing returns, though, meaning you can go too heavy.
Then there is the whole FOC (front of center) issue to consider. A fellow named Dr. Ed Ashby has done the most extensive studies ever done regarding arrow penetration and arrow/broadhead design. I won't go into all of the details, but he proved that significant gains can be made in penetration by designing an arrow correctly. It is possible to have a bow of relatively low poundage, using an extreme front of center arrow, out penetrate a substantially heavier bow, using a regular FOC arrow.
Depends what you're looking hunt Basil. For most north American game you won't need more than 45-50 lbs at your draw (whatever that maybe).
I draw 26 inches and shot my first whitetail last fall with a bow pulling 49 lbs at my daw length.
With a 545 grain arrow and VPA terminator 3 blade I shot him quartering away at 25 yards. The arrow took both lungs and the heart before destroying the deers far side shoulder. It was a quick and effective kill which I suspect could have been done just as easily with even less daw weight.
Since switching to Hill style bows I've gone up in weight marginally and may go higher only n the future but because I want to not because I have to.
If you're starting out I would get a lower weight bow so you don't have to fight it so much on the range then move up in weight in a few years when you've got your form set and your confidence is high.
QuoteOriginally posted by Basil_K:
So how does one compensate for that shorter power stroke?
Would a heavier arrow be the answer?
By shooting an efficient bow design, such as a well designed, fairly highly reflexed/deflexed hybrid or a well designed recurve, imo.
looper-
after reading your post, the word "cogent" popped into my mind.
words do that. i'm used to it.
couldn't remember what it meant, though. i'm used to that, too.
"cogent: having a powerful appeal to the mind; conpelling; convincing. syn: see valid."
in the current vernacular, you nailed it
joe
wow! a quad post!
sorry. y'all have no idea how challenging it is to post here from dickens county, texas on a not very smartphone.
thanks for your kind indulgence.
again, sorry.
joe
I have a short draw and have shot deer with everything from a 36 pound Hill to a 96 pound Hill and a bunch of others in between. The biggest difference is how much pass through I got. The 36 pound bow shot a deer that was about a 140 pounder field dressed, shot up hill at 18 yards and the arrow went through and went a couple of corn rows past. It was the arrow that did the job. A simple 5/16" cedar with a Grizzly broadhead that flew perfect. A perfect flying arrow has a lot more penetrating power than a loggy flying arrow. Of course, if I was going to shoot a Canadian moose, I would use my 64@26" Schulz longbow and an arrow that weighed at least 550 grains with a two blade broadhead.
A lot of good information guys thank you!
I'm still new to all this archery stuff but it's good to know guys like you will be around to answer the questions is newbies have.