Well, I am continuing my transition to trad archery. Finally grouping well enough to want to hunt (as long as I keep the yardage short). Imagine my surprise when the instructions on the back of the brand new package of broadheads told me to sharpen the heads before hunting with them. After years of buying 'off-the-shelf' surgical sharp mechanical do-hickeys, I am now going to start filing metal. Any hints for a good beginning?
Thanks!
Kingsnake
What broadheads are they?
Woodsman 175gr.
There are several good tutorials in the How-To section. Scroll down to the Archives and you will find them there, good stuff, too. Different strokes for different heads.
I was in your shoes when making my switch. I have always enjoyed sharpening anything and everything and even use a straight edge to shave so i feel i know what "really" sharp is. The only thing that is easy and gets "really" sharp imo is the KME system. I recently got one and it cuts the time in half and does an amazing job. Worth every penny!
I've used a Lansky knife sharpening kit for years to keep my trusty Buck Model 110 sharp, just never sharpened broadhead before. I will definitely check out the tutorials. Thanks!
Kingsnake
that should work great on your Broadheads as well. definately give it a try, cant get em too sharp
I'll give it a try. Of course, if there is a specialty tool that will help me along, I have no problem investing a few more dollars for the long run . . ..
Nicholson Bastard file, 2 blades at a time . If you are right handed, hold the file in you right hand, start the tip of the file at the back of the closet blade and push it across both blades and forward at the same time running the length of the blades. Flip, repeat, flip repeat. Make sure you rotate the broadhead between storkes. Do this until sharp. Light pressure. Clean up the sharp edge with a honing stick. BINGO.
God Bless
Check out this video also.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=4225
Woodsmens are tempered a harder roc-well hardness than all others. And most people don't have the paticance to it. Other heads are solfer and any run of the mill person can sharpen. Thats why there as solf as they are.
I've had a couple people come to me and say I can't get this thing shap. Get FILE and metal vise. You'll soon find out what I'm saying. It's not that hard to doit just go's slower.
I found the best way is the way I sharpen my knives. Put in a vice get a belt sander or vibrating sander. For solfer heads, knives (STORE BOUGHT WALLMART)a 20% edge works best. But a the harder roc-well (LIKE WOODSMEN)a 15% works best. The harder temperer edge will alow for the steeper angled edge(15%0.
Starting out if you look the edge has a feathered look. I start out with 220 grit GET THE RIGHT ANGLED EDGE(15%).Next go down to a 400 grit.
This will make it rasor sharp. The finer grit the less feathered the sharping edge. And it will be makeing the blade sharper. I've taken blades on down to 600 grit AND EVEN POLISHED ON DOWN TO 1000 GRIT. But difference IS SO SMALL I CAN'T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE from 400 grit.
This is way faster and will get your heads shaper. Being tempered harder means it will stay sharper longer.
WOODSMEN ARE REALLY GOOD HEADS FOR THIS REASON ALONE.You never see a tip roll back on bone.
Rick Barbee method works the best for me. I supplement the stones from my kme knife sharpener for the final 2 in video. They are shaving sharp when I get done.
First off I think every Traditional bowhunter should learn with just a simple file or at least a big file a finishing stick. The skill will come in handy one day and its just part of it.
After all that is out of the way this is how I sharpen my VPA's out of the package.
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee391/rjwalton8/P1000361.jpg)
Pull through a few times each blade and.....
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee391/rjwalton8/P1000369.jpg)
Simple as that. If I really mess one up hunting I take it to the big Nicholson to reset the angles and back to the wheelie.
At least a couple sponsors sell them, Simmons Sharks is one I know of, they fit in a pack, and are a whoppin' $9 bucks.
Works on 2,3, and 4 blade heads if the bleeders come off. If the bleeders don't I hit them with a jewel stick.
Rob
Kingsnake,
Your Lansky won't work for 3 blade BHDs, neither will either of the KME systems. 3 blades have to be done by hand, 2 blades at a time on a file and/or stone as shown in the tutorials above. If your heads are Woodsman Elites? (which they almost must be at 175 gr.) they'll be easy to touch up using only stones. We sharpen all the Elites for 3 Rivers so I'm pretty familiar with those. If you need any help, give me a call. I can walk you through sharpening one on the phone in just a few minutes. Thanks!
Ron
Thanks, Ron...Yep, Woodsman Elite 175gr 3_blades. Ordering a jewelstik benchstone and leather strop. Will call for help if I'm strugglin' :thumbsup:
All-
Just made it back to page 1 of comments. Wow, such helpful advice! I will get this right and the broadheads will be shaving sharp before I head into the woods. One, or all, of the above methods will be attempted before I hit the woods! Shoot straight, my friends!
Kingsnake