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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: The Whittler on January 16, 2007, 07:39:00 PM
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Is Gorilla glue any good for carbon inserts? The reason I ask is my wife bought me some and I was woundering. Thank you. Alan
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That's wondering lol. It may be wounding after I get done. Alan
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I would be skeptical,though I've never tried it.Gorilla glue expands as it dries(the foaming action)and I believe that will push the insert out or if you have it clamped good enough to prevent that,it might crack the shaft.
Just a thought,
Robert
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Ram, I did not know the Gorilla glue would expand. Thanks for the info. Alan
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I don't know about Gorilla glue, but JB Weld works great. I buy the 4 hour cure, sets in 4 minutes so you have time to work with it. I bent a carbon shaft using it, well actually bent the 100gr brass insert inside when it slammed into a rock but the glue refused to seperate from the shaft. I was skeptical til that day.
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I've used Gorilla glue, but prefer super glue.
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Gorilla glue will expand. I don't like it much. Superglue tends to be too brittle when dry. epoxy for golf clubs is made to stay flexible and withstand impact. You can get fast set or regular set. I prefer the regular set.
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What about if you are trying to tune new carbons, and don't know what you want up front yet? Is there a way to glue in inserts and remove them to try another weight?
Dan
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Quick Stick Hot Melt Point Glue from Three Rivers works great on everything and is easy reversable. I use it on GT's and haven't had one insert cone out.
Howard
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I'd use Goat Tuff for Carbons......Gorilla isn't a good idea IMO.
No taking it off with the Goat Tuff,but never had it fail either.
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Oconee Dan I put in the insert without any glue at all. I shoot the shaft into the sand broadhead pit at my club and do not pull it straight back when I retreve it. I just lift up on the nock end till it clears the sand.
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Maybe Petw will chime in he found some golf glue that is supposed to be perfect.
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I use hotmelt glue. That way I can tune the shafts using the weights that go in the nock adapter and the insert. Just heat up the glue stick and the metal adapter not the shaft.....works great and never had a problem.
thanks
citori
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I've been using JB Weld with no problems so far.
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I tried hotmelt on my Carbon techs and it does not hold. After 20 or so shots the inserts would pull out. This was shooting into a fiberboard butt as well as my Black Hole target. I've switched to epoxies now.
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I use goat tuff and it is reversible if you heat a field point to pull the insert.
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So, when removing insert with hot melt glue, you heat up the point and it transfers heat to the insert without hurting the carbon?
6point, that is a neat idea.
Thanks, Dan
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Use 24hr. epoxy that is "shafting epoxy" by The Golfworks...it works excellent!! With respect to tuning, decide what weight you want to shoot and then bareshaft to tune. Trim your shafts from the back end, not the front. Do not use the quick set epoxies , shops use them as they are sending arrows out quick. Pete and I got the idea from Rod Jenkins...thanks Rod :notworthy:
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JB Weld for sure...Gorilla Glue would foam up too much.
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Gorilla glue does not work well...it's fine for a while but the the bond goes...
Easton Axis epoxy is fantastic...
I've heard there's a heat reversible golf epoxy that's great...but I can't remember what it is...
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I use hot melt when trying to figure out weights at first, but epoxy them in after that. I have lost inserts in 3D targets and even a bag when glued with hot melt. And I've also heard a rumor that if you miss the target completely and stick one in the plywood backboard the inserts can pull out with hot melt as well. Not that I would know from personal experience or anything. :rolleyes:
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I use the gel type Super Glue and have had no problems with inserts pulling out.
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I'm with whip, hotmelt for tuning, trimming grizzlysticks from the back is not recomended by Ed since it is a tapered shaft, Powerbond for final glueing, holds well and is heat reversible.
eagle24, Is the superglue heat reversible?