I just bareshaft tested my arrows to my new bow. I am shooting full length trad hammerheads with brass inserts. I cannot remove the inserts any more. It's a Right handed 76#@29.5 Rd longbow.
Right now I only have a 125 gr head in.
Bare and feathered are grouping very close at 23 ( all the room I have).
However, the bare is def flying nock left the whole way. Fletched look perfect.
Any fine tuning ideas from the gurus to get the bare flying more straight? Thx. Dan
Sounds like a tad weak in spine. I would go with it if the fletched shafts are flying perfect. I never bareshaft tune, I only shoot woods and do a little paper fine tuning.
Well,you can't really drop point weight.They sure sound weak and I can't remember if those shafts can be cut from either end? If the rear could be cut,I would trim a little there on the bare shaft and try again.If you can't,you could try knocking out the insert by inserting a drill bit at the rear and swinging.If it won't come out,I would be tempted to cut that end of the shaft off,insert a new insert and try again.You may need to go up in point weight at that time but there is a wide variety above 125.Anyway,good luck with it.
Thing is these arrows are supposed to handle draw weights to 95, I have a hard time wrapping my mind around the idea that they are weak. I shot a 145gr head from a heavier bow...? Think I'll let it ret
I might have a 100gr head around here... I really want them to be 200!
Elkbreath. I agree with you. One other thing you might try to make the arrow act stiffer, and I'm not convinced that is the problem, is to use a little thicker strike plate. Could just build it up with tape to test.
Play with your brace height yet?
It is a tad weak-which in my mind is about perfect-allows for the fletching to take effect. And you are back far enough at 23 yds.
X2 Bjorn :thumbsup:
Think Bjorn nailed it
I'm seeing the same thing with some carbons I just got. I got some CE150's and with my 44 - 45 lb bows, I had to cut them all the way back to 30 1/4 with 125gr heads before they quit sliding in nock left(as in REALLY nock left!). I think a lot of the spine estimates are based on 27 - 28" arrows. I bought some CE250s that head 100gr brass inserts epoxied in. I started cutting them back at the nock end for my 50# recurves and had to go all the way down to 30.25 again, with 145 gr heads. I plan to shoot 160gr Zwickey's, so they'll be fine when fletched, but I'm sure glad I don't draw 31" like some of you. I'll bet its really tough to get an arrow stiff enough to handle a heavy point if left full length.
What in the world do you guys do who draw 31" and shoot 60# + bows?
Why can't you remove the inserts? I shoot full length hammerheads out of my 64@31" bows. I use the stock aluminum inserts and 200 grain heads for a total of 700 grains. I tried the brass inserts, but I had to drop down to a 125 grain point for them to work for me.
Yeah, that's what I'm finding too.
Those brass inserts are pretty darned long and are epoxied in. I have some lying loose so I'll check the length and if I have that much extra shaft, I'll cut them off behind the insert. Those are bare shafts, 30.25" that are flying well with 145 points, so I'm sure by the time I put 3 5" feathers on, they wil stabilize nicely with the 160 gr Zwickey's.
Just surprises me that a CE250 or GT7595 has to be cut back so short to handle a heavy point out of just a 50# bow.
Put a broad head on and see how your feathered arrows fly.
Whittler
, I would but that's why I'm tuning, to know which head to buy!
Wow long are the brass inserts? I draw 29.5". Any chance there's enough arrow for me to cut to 30"? If full length is 32 and I cut 2 inches off, would that be behind the insert?
Some 100 grain brass inserts that I have are 1 7/16 long with 5/16 of that serving as a collar that protrudes beyond the shaft. That means there's 1 1/8 inches of brass inside the shaft. Good luck.