I purchased a Howard Hill Big Five, 70" and 50 # @ 28" (dished grip) bow from Thom on Tradgang, and am hooked on the D-style longbow.
Now I am considering purchasing either a Miller Split Bamboo or a Northern Mist Shelton. While the best advice might be to buy both, I can only afford one.
Some advice please. How do they compare? Thanks.
Rob
moots? steamboat mountain bike moots?
coolest bikes ever.
joe
Nothing sweeter shooting than a Miller Split Bamboo, but they are an all wood bow, the Shelton is glassed. The Split Bamboo can't be over drawn or left strung like a glass bow can. They are a different animal but great shooters.
I have had a Shelton and I thought it was a very nice shooting bow and the best string follow bow I have shot. Plus they are reasonable in price. There is one for sale used now in the classifieds. As with any bow personal preference is important. I had a David Miller and didn't like it as much as the Shelton.
That doesn't mean I wouldn't want to try another David Miller. I would like to try a David Miller Split Bamboo myself.
I would recommend trying a used one before I bought any new bow. Some of these bows are hard to find used. I rarely see a David Miller used for sale.
I would send a PM to HUD. I have had some discussions with him and find he is very knowledgeable with string follow bows. He told me some things I never knew about them. He has had many and I think would have valuable information for you.
John are you sure the split bamboo is all wood and doesn't have glass in it? I thought he just tillered it before it is backed with glass.
Thanks
Gil
The Split Bamboo is an all bamboo model with a 12" riser.
They ARE the best "in the hand" compared to ANY glass Hill style bow.
They are a little slower then the glass bows, but that smooth, linear, thrust at the shot will have you saying... Nothing shoots like an all bamboo bow.
Ditto what Jesse said.
Yes Joe, I've been riding a VaMoots for years . . . and now I've found a new way to spend money with bows!
Okay, so I see that my Big Five has fiberglass (as does my McCullough Tsunami). But a couple of my other longbows don't. I'm understanding from your comments that the fiberglass makes a bow faster.
I've done traditional archery less than a year; I don't know much. But is this like the difference between a bamboo fishing rod versus a graphite or fiberglass rod? And I don't know what you mean when you say that the split bamboo can't be "overdrawn"or "left strung"?
Thanks,
Rob
Think of a piece of rebar, you can bend it, but if you go too far it will develop a kink and bend over. A non glass bow is engineered to only go so far. The length and the thickness is calculated to reach a certain draw weight, and the bow is made to go to your specific draw length. Fiberglass just adds a bit of stiffness, which increases speed, they are more durable but are not as gentle in the hand when shot.
If you leave it strung too long the limbs can develop a permanent set into the strung position, just pop the string off when your done shooting.
Ditto what Jesse said.
Moots it is the same as a bamboo fly rod compared to a fiberglass rod. If you are not careful and land too big a fish with the cane rod it will take a set, the glass rod will not. Same difference with bows
Okay, I think I'm starting to understand. I see that Miller has an option for fiber backing or fiber backing plus belly glass. So these options would add stiffness and speed.
If Miller's Split Bamboo bow is designed to be "old school" and give the smoothness and feel of bamboo, it seems counterintuitive to me to put glass on the back and belly. Wouldn't it make more sense to choose a different model and glass those?
So would the Northern Mist Shelton be more comparable to let's say Miller's Sage? Or am I still comparing apples and oranges?
And string follow looks like the limbs bend slightly to the shooter. So this would mean a little slower, but smoother release. Would it make sense with string follow to shoot a bow at the upper end of draw weight to compensate for slower speed, but still get the smoother release?
Thanks.
Rob
The Shelton would be most comparable to the Miller Old Tom. Either is as good as it gets in a glass backed American semi-longbow.
Rob,
you are right you wouldn't want to glass a Split Bamboo. As Mike says a Shelton is comparable to a Old Tom and both are fine bows. I am personally partial to the Miller but to each their own. The string follow is as you say except that it won't effect the speed much at all, I would not up the poundage to compensate.
Have shot both. Miller all the way. Flint
Sort of apples to oranges comparison to compare an all natural bow to a fiber glassed bow. Both bowyers are exceptional. Steve Turay's Northern Mist bows get the nod from here because I prefer glassed bows. If I were looking for an all natural bow it would be a Miller.
Just make sure it is long enough for your draw. Normal formula for a glass bow is to take the last digit of your draw length and add 60". So for a 28" draw go with a 68" bow.
howard hill's draw length/bow length formula was to start at 72"bow, 28"draw, and reduce bow length 2" for every 1" reduction in draw length.
so hh liked a little longer bow.
joe
With his self wood bow yes, with his laminated bamboo bows he shot 69" for his 28" draw. The extra inch was probably to help smooth out the fact that they were quite heavier than what most people shoot.
I have a 30 1/2 inch draw with my longbows -- so good information here on bow length. I see a 66" NM for sale on tradgang - - - probably too short for me.
You could say that. You are gonna need 70-72" my friend.
Now the $64K question, do you shoot targets or hunt.
If it is gonna be heavy go 72" if it is gonna be mod. weight and maybe string-follow 70" will be fine. Shorter bows and you will be pulling that string angle way past 90deg. and getting finger pinch as well, definitely not the way to achieve accuracy.
thanks for that further info, swampthing.
i was thinking more about it, and @ 24", both formulae come out the same.
@25", (my draw), they're only 1" apart.
probably ain't much of a thang.
joe
If you draw 30.5", you dont want a 66" Shelton, I would go 68-70". Call Steve Turay and he'll set you up.
Eric
QuoteOriginally posted by WESTBROOK:
If you draw 30.5", you dont want a 66" Shelton, I would go 68-70". Call Steve Turay and he'll set you up.
Eric
I echo Eric...
Swampthing, only targets for now. Are you suggesting I could go a little shorter for targets? However, I have an eleven year old son who is interested in hunting, and my father has plenty of game on his ranch on the Wyoming / Colorado border. So there could be hunting in our future.
Am I correct that a person can shoot a shorter bow if it has reflex / deflex? But for a straight American longbow, it sounds like I need a longer bow.
And thank you for your comments. I am learning a lot.
Rob
Moots ,
yep its way easier to go shorter with a R/D bow ...
Hill style bows are at their best when long ... and iMHO make the best and most fun hunting bow around . Their best attributes .. silent, forgiving are exacerbated when long in length .. and somewhat nullified as you go shorter ...
and i agree with my fellow Hillsters ... at 30.5 I'd suggest 68- 70 in a string follow and 70"[ maybe even 72"] in a straight/reflexed bow.
Are you only going to hunt with it ? Shoot tourney's, Go a roving marks, shot field ?
If only hunting you could likely err on the shorter side ... 68 string follow / 70 reflexed .....
Just my two cents ...
and that don't mean much , just ask my wife ......
Hey Rob! I'm really glad to see that Big Five gave you the bug! (And remember to call me first if you ever decide to sell it!)
I've shot tons of HH and NM with my long draw between 66" and 70", and 70 inchers are my favorite by far!
I did buy a used Classic at 68" which I consider dead minimum. It shoots great, doesn't pinch or stack, but it's better than most 68 inch bows I've tried. That said it's a wicked bend in those limbs at anchor, I'm really glad to have the glass on it!
Every D longbow I'm thinking about ordering right now is 70".
Glad to hear your enjoying the Hill bows!
Thom
Ben, thanks for the great advice. I think it's worth more than two cents!
Thom, nice to hear from you again. And I am enjoying that Big Five. Thom, I'd like to know what you think about all natural Hill-style bows versus bows that have glass. Have you had a chance to shoot a Miller split bamboo or similar bow? What is your preference, and why? What are your favorite HH and NM models?
Thanks,
Rob
Rob,
String-follow bamboo longbows are very nice shooting bows. These bows are not as durable as fiberglass longbows and are draw length specific. All bamboo longbows will not last long if overdrawn and left strung.
All bows have a "shelf life". I have owned a Schulz "granpa" all bamboo laminated bow and a Dave Miller split-bamboo. Both were nice shooting bows, the Schulz shot very well, probably as nice a drawing bow as i have ever shot in a Hill longbow.
All bamboo bows will break at some point. As well fiberglass bows have a shelf life. A glass bow will last much, much longer than a bamboo if treated in the same manner.
For me, I will own no more all-wood, non-fiberglass longbows. I will only shoot glass bows. It is simply too frustrating, expensive, and painful to get grooved in with a longbow and then have it break on you.
I have not shot a Shelton, but a string follow glass bow is the best compromise between shoot-ability (smooth draw, accuracy) and durability in a Hill style longbow. The one I am shooting now is as good a bow as I have ever shot. A very talented bowyer in Idaho made it for me.
Thanks Jeff,
Very helpful comparison between the glass and all-wood longbows. Would you mind sharing the name of your Idaho Bowyer?
Rob
I LOVE Steve's bows, but in this case I agree with Swampthing. If its between a shelton and split boo I'm going with the Miller. I have one and have owned and shot a shelton recently. It's hard to describe until you shoot one. Silent, and butter smooth, yet lively. That Miller is something. Dave said it should last a long time. I just hope my lifetime.
I haven't experienced any gain from a glass string follow bow over the standard back set. I think they are overall smooth, but not smoother, and noticeably slower, and i didn't gain accuracy. I've shot some that are shockey too. That said, the reverse handle bows are amazingly accurate and still have the backset quick limbs and maintain the smooth shot. My opinions , but I know I'm not alone.
In my book the NM classic and whisper are must own bows for the Hill style enthusiast, and add the Miller split boo!
Sunset Hill
All Hill bows are not the same that is for sure. There is tiller, timing of the limbs, and the width of the limb tips can make a big difference in performance, smoothness, handshock, etc.
The grip fit is quite important for good shooting. Just like a custom fitted pair of boots or shoes, a Hill longbow needs the same attention to each detail to fit you.
These issues are where the truely custom bowyer comes in that knows how to fit the bow to the customer. Anything will fling an arrow, but when you shoot one of these bows made to fit and get the "Hill style" down you gain a confidence over time in your hunting shot.
Hi Rob,
I haven't shot a Miller yet, just not that many of them in my circle of friends. Reputation is top notch and among the TG Hill shooters it has to be well deserved.
I considered buying a Shulz all bamboo bow a while back, but with my draw length I'm worried it would be in my hands when it wore out or broke. I just can't do that to a bow like that. If I drew 27 inches I'd love a natural bow and some dacron. Since that isn't the case I'll just focus all my attention on enjoying the glass bows that seem to like the abuse :)
I like Jeff's points regarding all boo vs glass backed bows, given your 30+ inch draw I'd either stick with glass or talk to the bowyer before you order an all natural bow.
I really like NM Classics and have shot a bunch of them, but I'll be ordering a Shelton for my next NM. With Steve's build time I bet I order another bow in the meantime.. I already owned a HH BF and was fool enough to sell it :) I shot a Crocodile @73 pounds during a pig hunt and I really liked it! I think my next HH will be a long Croc, probably at a similar weight.
There is one dark horse in the running, I know a bowyer (and sponsor) who will be announcing a D longbow later this summer. I asked for the heaviest bow out of his first production run (time will tell if I get it or not.) Depending on when it shows up and how it shoots, it may push back my Crocodile order. I'll be putting money down on that Shelton regardless.
That's about all the more I can type out on this phone, I'll check back with you when I get back from vacation! All the best!
Thom
I have both a NM Shelton and one of David Millers all bamboo longbows. Both are good shooting bows with different characteristics. I can't say anything negative about either of them. Having said that I like shooting my Shrew Hill bow best... :dunno:
:D
Thom and Jeff,
Very helpful comments regarding boo versus glass-backed bows. Thanks!
Thom, I do like that HH BF you sold me; it has good mojo.
Rob
Ron has the ShrewHill. There is another bow I need to own! :thumbsup: Man the choices in great bows these days! :D
HA! Ron, I got your ShrewHill bow, remember? :readit: :thumbsup:
Ron,
I haven't been at this long, but I do know that you build extremely fine bows. That Shrew Hill looks like a beauty. I hope to own one some day.
Moots, Ron's ShrewHill is built by Greg Coffee, aka Java Man. I really like the very "old school" styling--deep narrow cores, slim straight grip. Just a whisper of string follow.