For those of you who seal wood arrows with pro-fin how many coats do you normally put on your arrows. I've never used it but I have some ordered.
I like 3 coats of Pro-fin on my port orford cedars.
I use a different product, so I can not say with intelligence how many with Pro fin, but I do want to say that we would like to see pictures when your done with this set. Your asking all the right questions about making them, and we love our arrow porn.
x2 on three coats. Light sand between first and second coat with 0000 steel wool. (Actually I use the synthetic stuff. Less messy.)
Mike no prob. I'll let ya know when I got a few done. Just don't compare mine to yours!
3 coats should seal em up just right.
Where did you find the Pro-Fin? I am unable to fid it in MT.
Walt,
You will have to order direct or find a sponsor that sells it. I ordered mine for $34 a quart and $17 of that was for the hazmat shipping. I bought the satin but will order gloss next time and scuff the last coat to dull it slightly. The gloss will not seperate according to "Sir Snag Arrowsmith Extrordinaire " in the dip tube like the satin will. I have to stir my satin in the can, pour in my dip tube, do my dipping, then transfer back to the can. Snag has never steered me wrong on arrow building and thank everyone on here for all the arrowsmithing tips. Woodie Love !!! Saving my nickels for a spinrite crester next.
Just order from Daly's. NoCams is correct in that the gloss will not separate. The stain is a two part as I recall. Also the gloss is the perfect viscosity and will sheet off nicely without having to use the "gasket" type of dipping.
I do one coat and sand smooth then another and sand smooth. Then I dip again. If it is glassy smooth then I crest and dip one more time over the cresting. This alsmost always works though i have had to sand and dip an additional time on occasion.
I cap dip in between the second and third dip by the by.
Yea Walt. I ordered it from Dalys website. I'm gonna use it for these arrows but prolly won't use it again because it was just too expensive to get it shipped here. Seems like the shipping was almost as much as the pro-fin!
I buy Parks water based wood floor finish (Home Depot) by the gallon. I buy gloss, and when using gloss, there is no need to stir, because there is no solids inside. After each dip session, I just pour more in and wait atleast 24 hrs for the air bubbles to disappear before I do the next coat. I dip 3 times, and I'm quite pleased with the finished product. I crest over the 1st dip, the 2 more over cresting. If I do a painted crown, I even dip over that.
1st dip is nock pointed down, then 24 hrs later I glue on the nock. Then I dip nock up the next 2 times. I know it is not significant, but it does allow for some FOC with the runoff, plus it is built up a little more on the business end.
I always wait 24 hrs between doin any different step in the building process. It allows for proper drying, and this way it ensures me that I take my time and don't rush anything. Arrow building should be relaxing and fun.
Mike,
I have used water based poly but had issues with it turning a white/milky after being exposed to snow/rain for extended period of time. I loved the lack of a toxic fumes though.
I use 3 coats also & lightly sand between the first & second. I don't sand after the 3rd coat. Of course you will sand the shaft & wipe any dust off them before you apply the first coat.
Frank
QuoteOriginally posted by Walt Francis:
Mike,
I have used water based poly but had issues with it turning a white/milky after being exposed to snow/rain for extended period of time. I loved the lack of a toxic fumes though.
The only time I've had that problem Walt, is when I tried super glue for the fletchings. Turned the finish white. Switched over to Duco, and all is well. As for the moisture in the air, I don't keep arrows long enough to have that problem. If I have an errant shot when small game hunting, I don't bother looking for the arrow, I just grab another and move on.
Mike,
Me too ! I dip nock down 1st coat then nock up on the last two. Glad I am not the only one who was thinking about more top coat on the point end. We need therapy don't we ???
I just got a PM asking about color change with arrow finishes. I trully believe the "yellowing" of the shafts is from the wood actually yellowing, not the finish. I could be wrong, and usually am if you ask my wife, but just take log/pine furniture as an example. If there is no stain added to the wood, just a clear coat, the wood that is exposed to sunlight changes colors. Just pull out an unstained drawer to see what I'm talking about (there will be a very distinct outline where the sunlight never touched. It could also be the finish your using, I just know I have not noticed any "yellowing" with the finish I use.
Mike. Do you dip one coat of clear before spraying the cap on?
I have done it with primer over bare wood then paint then dip, and I have also done the priming and spraying over 1st dip. 6 in one, 1/2 dozen in the other. If there is a difference, I do not notice it. Just remember, let EVERYTHING dry fully before proceeding on. This is where most people run into problem. They get impatient and want to get done fast. It's not worth it, and you will be dissatisfied with the results which equates into frustration.
I highly recommend a waterbased gloss finish (I use Parks from Home Depot). I have had zero problems with the product. It is compatible with all the spray paints I use (also bought at Home Depot). I use Testor's creating paint and Duco to glue on the nock and also the feathers. If you will be at Compton, let me know and I will have a variety of different arrows I have made over the years and you can see my finished product for yourself, and even some I have been hunting with for a couple years. They look the same way as the day I made them, just a little beat up.
Mike, most of the waterbased finishes I have used hasn't held up too well to targets. That is why I have been so pleased with the ProFin. Do you like the Parks when it comes to it's ability to withstand some abuse?
I don't have a bad thing to say about it. Delta and Makenzie targets are not the best for them, I've had problems with all arrow finishes in those targets. Rienhart and bag targets are no problem. Most of my shooting is with a judo head outside, or broadheads, and they stand up to LOTS of abuse. I don't shoot at targets often. I prefer to be hunting something with judo heads if it's not "regular" hunting season (September-January).
Like I said earlier, I can not say with intelligence how good Pro Fin is, because I have not used it. I can say that Parks is phanominal, and all I will use till they stop making it. I do not run it thru a gasket, so there is some lost in the drip tray, but most is allowed to run off the shaft till it starts to "Drip", then I hang to let finish dripping and dry.
I think I'll have to do a side by side with a few arrows to see how they match up.
I'm interested in knowing.
Ok. I know I said I would not order more pro-fin because of the cost of getting it to the Midwest but I tried it out on a test shaft tonight and this stuff is excellent. Perfect and I mean perfect consistency right out of the can with no bubbles at all even a minute after I put it in the dip tube. Think I might have to see if they will give me a break on the shipping if I order a bunch of it. Really like it so far. Thanks guys.
I had forgotten about the target burn (foam from targets heating up and adhering to the arrow) when using water based poly; another reason I went away from using it. However, the main reason I quit using it was I quit building arrows and my arrowsmith uses pro fin. Less target burn with the pro fin, but that can be mitigated by waxing your arrows every now and them with pledge or another type of furniture wax.
Just use the "pine scented" wax to hide your scent... ;)
I consider my arrow making skills to be novice or apprentice at best. Don't get me wrong, turned out some real beauties but no where near the volume of arrows built that the arrowsmiths on here are building.
In my humble opinion and based on my limited experience with Profin and Minwax Polycrylic, one being oil based the latter water based, that they are very different animals in regards to target burn. I would not shoot a Minwax Polycrylic arrow into a foam target, not even once. Immediate target burn ! With 3 coats of Profin and a coat of wax not a issue. Yes, with enough shots you can wear it down but much more durable than water based formulas I have tried. I wanted water base to work due to cost, local availability, no toxic fumes, etc, etc. but just not tuff enough IMHO.