Have a recurve I love to shoot but the hand shock is so much more than my longbows. Here is the setup, I shoot left arm bent,flemish string, wool silencers with wraps at ends near loops,rubber sleeved grip,super quiet but too much vrooommm in my hand .Appreciate any tech tips
Thanks Andy
"FF" string, if you don't already have one and the bow is made to accept it.
If you already have a FF string, it may be way overbuilt.
Higher brace height.
Heavier arrow.
And don't grip it like your longbow. A loose, high wrist grip will help a lot. Grab it like a longbow and it will beat you up.
If what LBR suggests doesn't fix your problem, the bow is seriously out of tiller.
it has a fast flight string,52# @28 and I am shooting a 630 grain arrow, I will try the different grip and a higher brace height Thanks Andy
Skinny string. Try a 10 strand or less ff string.
I have never had handshock on a recurve with that many grains per pound arrow weight.
If all else fails try some limbsavers mounted on your limbs about 3 inches above the riser fadeouts and also a bowquiver can help as well full of arrows.The selway bowquiver all rubber slide on called a softcote is one of the best at absorbing bow vibration/shock.
tried the tips went up on the brace height that helped,have shot it with skinny strings 12 strand to 14 strand flemish, the flemish is better,but it is still like pulling the top string on a bass guitar bvoommm,bvoomm,anyway laid it down and shot the longbow, my concern is that the bowyer is currently building me a takedown model,The experts on this site might spot the problem right off the bat, I can shoot it great but have to overlook the vibration.Is it the string going back and forth after the shot,had whiskers but the wool seems to do better.I shoot back quivers so a mounted quiver would be different
Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!
Have a friend or two shoot the bow (someone accomplished shooting trad bows) to see if it presents the same problem for him/her. If not then it's likely not the bow or the string.
As Jeff said, how you grip the bow means alot re vibration. If you typically use a firm, full grip on your longbows (typical w/ Hill style) then you may be getting too much heel and not enough 'web' for the more locator-style recurve.
You might want to check the tiller. Measure from the tip of each fadeout to the string, at both fadeouts. If the difference is more than a 1/4" that might be a possible source of extra vibration.
String slap (string hitting limbs near the loops) is usually more of an issue w/ recurves. If brace height is substantially off the amount of slap can be excessive, producing more vibration.
Is the recurve significantly shorter than your longbows? If so, finger pinch might be more on the recurve, which could affect your release (pluck) and give the impression of more vibration. Again, having a friend shoot it can help you assess that, especially if their draw length and general form is similar to yours.
Good luck.
Some bows are like that .. Just beasts that are hard to tame, I don't mind putting a couple of hush pups on but that is all I'll do other than tuning. Some say there aren't bad bows. I disagree . I want then dead in the hand.
Talk to the bowyer!
Thanks guys I had someone else shoot it and Quote" that thing rocks your jaws", going to check tiller now
Tiller is 1/4 inch different at tip of fadeouts, closer on bottom
what is current brace height ?
I tend to agree with the above. One of my recurves vibrates after the shot, unless the BH is over 8" Then. . . no vibration, awesome.
Keep trying.
ChuckC
got a 7 inch brace height now, will take it to an 8
Thanks
If you watch a line of shooters warming up for a 3D you will see many bows with strings that oscillate back and forth after the shot-it is what strings do. Some look like they should not be comfortable and yet they are; others not so much and some cause the limbs to vibrate back and forth way more than others. I guess some bowyers know how to deal with it better than others and some archers know a lot more about tuning than others do. I agree with 'talk to the bowyer' and follow his recommendations, and a skinny string can improve tuning but it won't make up for poor tuning at least in my opinion.
Andy, I don't know your bow , but I know mine and it takes 8 or more, like 8.25 for mine. My buddy's is the same way. Keep going, I am just guessing you might help it along. Just watch the profile and don't obviously overdo it, or, if worried, state what you got here (I didn't notice you naming it) and see if anybody else has a similar set up..
ChuckC
Andy,
Like others have said, 7" is generally a bit low for most Recurves, try her at 7 3/4 & tune from there.
put it on an 8 and the difference is amazing,I will try it on an 8.25 and see if is any better, but I am so close,nice to have some experts on here, it is a beautiful bow, Kota , Prairie Swift, usually it is always something simple!?! just have to know what simple thing you are looking for
Can't buy this expertise anywhere
Thanks Again
Hope you are getting it tuned.
Usually a bowyer recommends Brace height range.
Since your having another built be sure to ask them what they suggest.
There are so many hybrid type bows it used to be recurves had brace heights from 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 inches.
Heavier arrow
I've always liked the looks of the Prairie Swift. Sounds like brace was the issue and its normal for most common design recurves to like it at 8" or darn close.
Talked to the bowyer and got the height right, what a difference , wow, went up to a 690 gn arrow and that helped but I think the big thing was the brace height THANKS EVERYONe