Hi gang,
I'm trying to bareshaft my new CE Heritage 250.
I'm left handed, my set up is:
BW PSA V 53#@28 60'
My draw is 29'
Brace height is 9'
8' wrap
3x5' feathers
Bikini 8 strand string from LRU
Started bareshafting full length arrow (close to 33' BOP) with regular insert (17 grains) and with 100 grains brass insert.
With a 100 grain tip got nock right and point of impact left, on both shafts (both insert's).
Cut the shafts at 31' and still get the same!
This is still soft, right??? Help me out, please, because I got confused now.
Is this spine/shaft to weak? I was looking to use 150 grain broadhead and 100 grain insert but it seems that I won't be able to do so!!!
Can anyone advise me? I feel the even if I cut them to 30' the result won't be that different!
Appreciate all the help.
Thanks
Do you have a nock set above and below arrow nock on your string? If your nock is sliding down on the release you can beat your head against the wall trying to tune. If so add more head weight.
If you are getting point of impact left then it means you are to stiff for a right handed shooter. This would be directly opposite for a lefty.
I shoot the same arrow out of a 53# ACS and I have 300 grains up front. I think you're too heavy on the spine and 150's would work better if you keep the light heads.
I would agree with the too stiff. I would try increasing the weight of the head until the arrow flys straight with no kick. I tuned some for a 50# recurve, wraps etc. I think they were around 29.5 or 30.5 inches, 100 grain brass insert and 175 grain head.
Just my opinion, but most Widows require a LOT of spine. You've also gone to a more efficient string, meaning you need even more spine. You could be underspined.
Cut one to 30", drop the heavy insert, confirm your nock point and try again.
I shoot 250's cut at 29" with 250 gr up front, out of my 54# @ 28". I have a full 29" draw. They bare shafted perect for me.
I'm shooting 250's cut 30.25 with 250gr. up front out of my 53#@28.
Rob
I'm shooting my PSA-X at 54# at 28"....30" heritage with 200 grain tip. They are flying great. Maybe more weight up front?
Men, that sounds so easy! I wish I was there...
I have a tied nock over and under nock point, wich is 5/8 above and I shoot 3 under.
I'll try to upload a photo with the impacts later. Can't do it from my smartphone.
I tried increasing the weight from a 100 gr point to a 200 gr (tried 125, 145, 175 in between) but the flight just got worst!!!
At 31' it shouldn't be that different of what you're all saying! And if with a 100 gr insert, 100 gr point and 548 gr total they give me nock right and impact left, why with a regular nock (16 gr), 463 gr total a same everything on the rest they also give me the same result? Less but the same...?
Just don't get it!
I'm a greenhorn on these things. Maybe if I go from 31' to 30 or 29,5' it gets better!
Maybe my release isn't the best but it is consistent. Do you think the skinny string has something to do with it?
I think you need a shorter arrow, but cut it down a 1/4" at a time. I shoot several bows in that weight range with 125 and 145 grn heads and my shafts are cut at 30 1/4" on 250's and 29 1/2 on 150's ...
I can't shoot them either out of 55# RER had to go to 350s. skinny sting requires more spine for me also. some bow set ups just need more spine.
Jim
The stranger thing to me is that with the regular insert (virtually no weight comparing with the 100 gr insert) they still give me nock right! I tried already 300 grain up front ( 100 insert + 200 point) and it increased the nock right!
I think you should ignore nock right or left and concentrait first on getting them to show weak of stiff as in right/left low/high impact first- that will get you close then tweek for nock (and have a clean release...)
When I shoot bareshafts, I can easily see which shaft is stiff or weak because they imapct just as the planing method describes, any distance, any number of times.
You need to get to that point before ever thinking nock position.
Joshua
JHG, that is exactly what is happening. When I say nock right, they are actually hitting left. I took a photo but still wasn't able to upload it. They all hit left but as I increase point weight, the angle they fly and hit is bigger. They fly really bad like this!
As I said, they are still 31' long. I think I'll cut one or two shafts tomorrow at 30'. What I'm experiencing goes against all things I've read from you all and more. I must be doing something wrong. Being leftie, arrows hitting left are soft, right? I keep asking this question but it's hard to believe I'm having so much trouble. It should be a walk in a park...
It is only a walk in the park after you have it figured out!
Low and left for you are weak, but you may be getting false reading. So take ONE shaft and cut it 1/2 inch same weight you should see a difference of impact high/low and right/left. Ignore nock position or how they fly for now- don't even think about it.
Try tuning the bow and not the arrows. It sounds like they are too stiff for you or that you have a pluck. Try switching to a leather strike plate and see if that helps. If it gets worse try building the strike plate out with mole skin or silencer felt.
This might sound stupid, but try a different nock. I fought a LRU string for several hours the other day and was getting all kinds of crazy tears with 2016s. After trying everything else i tried a different nock and things were normal. Same nocks were fine with a half dozen other strings I've tried, don't know if it was a nock issue or serving issue, but thats what worked for me!
Hi gang,
Here is the photo of what has being troubling me:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s462/bowhunterportugal/IMG-20120530-00839.jpg)
The photo was taken on the same line I was shooting.
I intentionally shot lower and lower so they would line up like that and I could explain what weights where. No drop what so ever at 8 yards. It was on purpose.
I was aiming to the center of the target where the foam is beaten.
All arrows where cut at 31', the top one has a regular insert, all others have 100 grain brass insert.
So, top to bottom:
1 - 100 grain point + 16 grain insert
2 - 100 grain point + 100 grain insert
3 - 125 grain point + 100 grain insert
4 - 145 grain point + 100 grain insert
As I increase the weight, the flight got worst. The arrows kinda get strait after hitting the target but they fly really on their sides.
Being leftie, getting point of impact to the left and nock right means soft shafts.
Today I've cut a couple at 30'. I'll try them later in the day.
Isn't this strange?
I like to use Stu millers Dynamic Spine calculator to get close firstand then fine tune with bare shaft testing since I always got the same as you. To many opposing forces i guess giving the same results. With my 55lb palmer @26" draw recurve which is center cut i needed 250's cut to 28" with a 100gr brass insert and 175gr point to fly well. Exactly what stu millers setup told me to do.
You are shooting at 8 yards? That is paper tuning without the paper. Not a big fan of that method as a first step.
Unless I missed somethintg and sorry if I have, get back to 20 yards.
!!!Ignore how your shafts fly!!
until you have the spine dialed in pretty close- one thing at a time- you are giving yourself fits by trying to tune for more than one thing at a time.
It is better to concentrait on a good release than watching how a poorly tuned bareshaft flys down range.
Take care of the first thing first- how they place on the target in terms of left/right high/low. Get that right first and its a very short walk to get them to fly perfect.
jhg,
The spine was so soft that at more distance I would miss the back stop. Besides, it was for demonstration purpose.
I've cut the arrows to 30' and the improvement was substantial. I now can shoot fairly strait with a 125 and 145 grain point.
I'm considering cutting them 1/4 inch more.
Thanks guy's for everything.
Diogo
On #3 & 4 I think I would call it good .... but cutting one another 1/4 will confirm that to ya. Good luck