Hey fellas, I'm having some serious fits here. I switched from carbons and shoot woodies full time. What spine should I be shooting in Surewood Fir shafts? I'm building my own and can't get good flight. My bow is a 58# at 28" Northern Mist Classic with a flemish string and not cut to center. I draw 28" on the nose so it's right at 58 pounds. I have some POC 55-60s and they don't fly good...used to be better but I bought a new glove and anchor fully now so I power the bow more. I'm stumped....I have THREE Surewood Firs 55-60 stained and drying...using 125gr points. Any help would be GREAT. :knothead:
I shoot 49 pounds,arrows are 29 to back of point with 215 grain points.Bareshafting shows just a tad weak,fletched with 5 and 1/2 shield cut and getting good arrow flight.Got my Surewoods from David Lawson @ Wilderness Arrows
The POC and Surewoods fly the same. If your POC is too weak your Surewoods will be too; sounds like you need stiffer shafts from your post.
I shoot straight limbed longbows of my own making, not cut to center. The two bows I shoot the most are 59# at 28" and the other is 54# at 28". I shoot 50 - 55# spine Surewood douglas fir shafts cut to 28 1/2" BOP with 125 gr heads out of each and get good flight.
With a Hill Style longbow that's not cut to center, one will typically need a shaft spined 5 - 10# lighter than the bow. But there's always some uncertainty give individual differences in shooting style. It really boils down to some experimentation to see what shoots best.
I had to go with 160-200 gr heads to get my new 55-60# Surewoods to match my 55-60# POC with 125 gr heads. That said I was tuning last summer in Ohio with high humidity. I love the Surewoods they just tuned differently for me. I was shooting out of a 55# @28 66" Hill style longbow drawing 28" and not cut to center.
Sounds like you're underspined to me. Try some 100 grain field points(or get the glue-on point test kit from 3Rivers) and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, you could get a test kit of different spine shafts (from Braveheart Archery or others) to try out. Don't get discouraged, wood is sweet shooting once you get'em dialed in.
The spine numbers on woodies are only a reference point. I've never shot an arrow whose spine rating matches the bow's draw. Every bow I have likes a stiffer spine. Surewood sells test packs, I'd get one of those and bareshaft or paper tune.
Sounds weak to me also - I shoot the 55-60 cut at 28 5/8 drawing 49 lbs or so
I would start with 60-65, and then only if your actually cutting to 28" BOP. If your adding a bit extra length for broadhead clearance, I'd bump up to 65-70lb spine.
Jsweka just may have the answer.
I have a JD Berry LB 64" 64#@28" and a Green Mountain LB 60" 60#@27". Both bows are not cut to center and I draw 29".
Both bows like 55/60. Go figure. Give a lighter spined arrow a try, it couldn't hurt.
Test Pack.
Well worth the money, and you can use em on your next bow and the one after that and.....
Every bow, whether the center cut is the same or not , will like a different arrow.
JMHO
Shoot a few of the POC thru paper to see what they are really doing. It could easily be more than just a spine issue. Arrow length can make quite a difference, too.
The test set that Kenny mentioned is a great tool and I wouldn't want to be without mine. I prefer a set where each arrow is marked with its actual spine, not just a couple within a few 5 lb ranges. With that set, you still don't know what you have.
I'm shooting a 58# horne longbow at 75 spine 29" with 145 grain heads - real good for me they also shoot real well out of my Herter's international match recurve 54# (I'm shoot FF string).
I'm shooting 60/65 out of my 49# recurves...and 50/55 out of my 43# recurves....
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Glenn
When in doubt, follow your instincts after reading some good advice found here:
http://elitearrows.com/proper-arrow/
One thing not mentioned is the string, I assume it is B-50 or similar, and maybe 15 strands. Make sure you nocks come off easy, they should not be sticky. I usually take three arrows in two or three different spines and go thru the method described on Elite Arrows. Good advice. :thumbsup:
Adam, you're right on the fence between 60/65's and 65/70's. This is based on arrows cut to 29" bop. If you were to do a test pack I'd concentrate on these two spine groups.
Thanks for all the info fellas! I'm pulling my hair out here lol. I'll look into a test kit in the 60/65s to 65/70s. I want to shoot the 125 grain Wensel Woodsmans but I will change tip weight to attain good flight. My arrows are cut from valley of nock to end of taper at 29" so to the bop it's about 28 1/4 or so.