I've been wondering something concerning left wing single bevel screw in heads...
Does the spinning cause the head to unscrew a bit as it penetrates? Wouldn't this lessen the effects?
I know my fieldtips unscrew if i don't keep some wax on the threads.
Anyway, just thinking out loud. I've never shot single bevel and was thinking about grying a few.
Sounds like it may.
It can.It doesn't matter whether it is left or right,as you are usually matching helical with bevel grind.For that reason,you should use blue Loctite on the adapter threads.
Good thought another reason to go with right wings and bevels.
QuoteOriginally posted by JimB:
It can.It doesn't matter whether it is left or right,as you are usually matching helical with bevel grind.For that reason,you should use blue Loctite on the adapter threads.
I understand that you match left with left and right with right, but An arrow spinning clockwise would stay tight while an arrow spinning counterclockwise (left) would unscrew slightly. Happens with my fieldpoints so i assumed it would be exaggerated with a single bevel head.
I can see where loctite would work great....i just like ability to change heads in my arrows.
It might be a non issue,though...at least not enough to worry about. Doesnt seem to bother my normal broadheads.
In theory.I shoot all right grind,right bevels and the loosen in my targets if I don't Loctite them.That includes field points.I know Doc Ashby recommended Loctiting them and that was back when all Grizzlies were RW.
I have had them come loose regardless when extracting them from arrows. I put some wax on the threads as its easier to change than loctite.
I never thought about the left bevel unscrewing from the arrow because of rotation. I shoot right bevel with right wing fletched arrows and have not had a problem with them unscrewing yet.
Technically yes, it's possible, but in actual practice its entirely a non-issue if you simply properly tighten your broadheads.
I shoot left bevel exclusively and have never had one spin loose, I just tighten with a broadhead wrench.
QuoteOriginally posted by Braveheart Archery:
Technically yes, it's possible, but in actual practice its entirely a non-issue if you simply properly tighten your broadheads.
I shoot left bevel exclusively and have never had one spin loose, I just tighten with a broadhead wrench.
I can live with that answer :)
The ideal head would allow the shaft to spin after the head hit meat/bone to not alter its momentum. I think razorback broad heads used to have that feature, but dont recall now. You wont get that obviously with our fixed blade cut on contact heads. I do see tips unscrewing if I dont have wax on them.
I use to shoot the razorbacks. It seemed the rotating head did more damage as it rotated inside the animal as it ran. Maybe the same would be true with a LW that slightly loosened after entry? Of course, a complete pass thru would be OK too.
Funny kenn1320, yeah back in the day of Razorbacks, their concept was the shaft continues rotation while driving the broadhead straight forward without allowing it to wined or rap in flesh or bind in bone impeding penetration. Did it actually work, who knows, but I killed a few deer with them without complaints. Just couldn't afford to shoot them all the time...8^)
Used to lightly sand and polish the core shaft so my blades would spin more freely aiding in penetration...8^)))
A little off the subject but interestingly around that time, (about 1984, because I remember my work location) a guy at a bow shop launched different type broadheads from the same bow and arrows at a metal cooking pot and was my first enlightenment in broadhead penetration. Although a little crude and unscientific, it proved two blades penetrated deeper than multiple blades and at that time even some 6-blades like Wasps were common. Ironically that old kitchen pot validated the more blades attached from 3 to 6, the less penetration.
Last time I seen that pot of broadhead holes was displayed as a novelty in the archery shop and have at times wondered what ever happened to it and/or why some broadhead manufactures didn't try the same type tests with light metals and aluminum to promote their products.
So I tried some left wing single bevels today. I shot a 125 gr and a 150 gr into the target 3 times each. Out of six shots, only one unscrewed.....it was the first shot with the 150. I think i just didnt tighten it enough beforehand.
I found it neat that you could feel the rotation when extracting the arrows.
The broadheads I shot were the over tempered (cheap) Samurai heada in the "garage sale" at Alaska Bowhunting. Obviously, I cant use them for hunting, but it was a cheap way to do some homemade experimentation. They were very sharp and quite stout. A little in the small side, though. However, i why.
Anyway, just wanted to update yall with my unscientific findings
No I don't think it would because all the arrow is spinning counter clockwise not just the BH.
When it hits an animal it will go in too fast to bother. This is my thought on the subject.
I shoot left wing, left bevel and have killed quite a few animals with this set up without any unscrewing. With that said though, I'm going to add wax or loctite from now on.
TRA sells a package of small o-ring washers which I use to facilitate getting the same broadhead orientation on every arrow. The o-ring slips on to the threaded broadhead shank and snugs up when tightened. A side benefit is the increased friction between broadhead and shaft.
I agree that a left-wing fletch theoretically is working to unscrew shaft from broadhead. Might be an issue if shooting the same shaft multiple times. Starting with a snug broadhead and shooting it ONCE at a live animal...almost zero realistic chance that the shaft spins enough to loosen up the setup. Many ways to add just enough friction to prevent any 'spinout'.
just a rap of teflon tape like used on pipe threads holds heads in but will back right out. never had a tip spin since i went to wood arrows
Both the teflon tape and the o-rings seem like really good ideas.