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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: TexasStick81 on May 04, 2012, 10:22:00 AM

Title: Knock point height
Post by: TexasStick81 on May 04, 2012, 10:22:00 AM
Quick (and maybe obvious) question, when someone says their knock point is at 5/8 does that imply that the actual knock is at 5/8 or the brass point is at 5/8, making the knock actually lower?
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: lpcjon2 on May 04, 2012, 10:30:00 AM
That would be 5/8 above the imaginary level line of the string and rest. If I am not mistaken
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Shan on May 04, 2012, 10:34:00 AM
i believe they mean the actual brass point is at 5/8.
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Bladepeek on May 04, 2012, 10:45:00 AM
I was told to measure to the bottom of the upper nock point. Nock height varies slightly by individual and setup, so as long as I can repeat my measurement consistently, I don't think it makes a hill of beans difference where I measure to. If I buy a bow and the previous owner tells me it shoots best at 1/2" nock height I say "thank you" and go ahead and set it where it shoots best for me and then record that measurement. Maybe that's a bit too casual?
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: TxAg on May 04, 2012, 12:01:00 PM
I always go by the height of the bottom of the nock point material (brass, floss, etc.)
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Kentucky Jeff on May 04, 2012, 12:11:00 PM
With the bowstring as the baseline.  You take a line out from the string at a 90 degree angle and where that line sits on the arrow rest is "zero".  This is your reference.

When you say your nocking point is 5/8" high that means the bottom of your nocking point--brass or tied in.  Is 5/8" above the reference point or "zero".    That doesn't mean your arrow is 5/8" high.  Only the top rear of the nock that sits against the nocking point on the string.  The arrow itself may be at a perfect right angle or a slight downward angle to make up for variations in form and tiller.
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: TexasStick81 on May 04, 2012, 12:45:00 PM
Thanks guys, that's what I was wanting to know.  It sounds like it's the brass or other material that people are referring to rather than the placement of the nock on the arrow.
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Ryan Sanpei on May 04, 2012, 12:47:00 PM
Hopefully this helps.

http://youtu.be/iA2of5ANHEc

Ryan
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: TxAg on May 04, 2012, 02:17:00 PM
QuoteOriginally posted by Kentucky Jeff:
With the bowstring as the baseline.  You take a line out from the string at a 90 degree angle and where that line sits on the arrow rest is "zero".  This is your reference.

When you say your nocking point is 5/8" high that means the bottom of your nocking point--brass or tied in.  Is 5/8" above the reference point or "zero".    That doesn't mean your arrow is 5/8" high.  Only the top rear of the nock that sits against the nocking point on the string.  The arrow itself may be at a perfect right angle or a slight downward angle to make up for variations in form and tiller.
You said it perfect
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: TexasStick81 on May 04, 2012, 04:26:00 PM
Hey Ryan, I just came across your videos today as a matter of fact and have been working my way through them.  I think I'm going to give the adjustable double knocking points a shot.
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Bill Carlsen on May 04, 2012, 07:31:00 PM
Kentucky Jeff is right on. Even if you prefer to have your arrow nocked under the brass or tied on nocking point, the real nocking point is measured to where the bottom of the nock shoots best on the string from the base or "zero" referred to.
Title: Re: Knock point height
Post by: Bowwild on May 04, 2012, 08:11:00 PM
I always start with the nock-touch-nocking point at 1/2" high. Then I shoot through paper. I just did this in fact 20 minutes ago.

If the tear isn't horizontal (or bullet hole) it is usually a low tear. This means I have to raise the nock locator. The first thing I do is simply nock the arrow on top of the locator to see if that does it.  

A few minutes ago that's extacly what I did (low tear and then nocked on top)  and I got the horizontal on the nose.

This ended up being about 5/8". Of course then I tie on a nock locator above the nock, leaving the first one in place so my nock is bracketed.

It doesn't always work because sometimes on top of the 1/2" locator is too much.

Of course now I've only finished the "easy" part.