The minwax polycrylic, can you use the dip tube and rubber gasket,or must it be wiped on.
Thanks Sam
The Minwax wipe-on that I use is polyurethane, so I'm not sure about the polycrylic stuff. You can get Minwax stains that also seal the wood before adding a finish that just wipe on, though...
Post some pics of your finished arrows for us to enjoy when you're done! :campfire:
I just keep it warm (room temp), use the dip tube and let it drip. Fine steel wool between the first and second coat. Then a third coat over the crest makes for a great finish.
Thanks for the info.
Sam
Whatever product you use dont short cut the drying time.
I sure like the wipe on poly .. been thinking of a dip tube also to make it faster and easier. Is there anything better straight out of the can ?
Don't know about better, however Pro-Fin is great straight from the can. From can to dip tube no issues.
Another fan of Profin. However I thin mine about 10-15% w/paint thinner. Very hard, durable finish if you let it cure correctly.
I thought I was getting target burn on some arrows about a month ago....turned out the target material was just setting on top of the finish like the scratch off stuff on a lottery ticket. Came right off with a fingernail.
I use sanding sealer first; usually bout 8 coats. Then 5-6 coats of poly
After staining the lower portion of my shafts, I lightly sand, then hand rub in a good coat of Minwax Polyurethane. After drying, lightly sand between coats and add 4 more coats of Minwax, each a little thicker. Sanding in between coats. I find this gives me the best seal and totally waterproofs them.
Top 8" I dip in Bohning Super Coat after I thin it out. Dip twice, lightly sand then apply my first coat of white paint. Second coat is Hot Pink, let dry thoroughly. Crest and fletch....
Old Bucky. I've use polycrylic as a dip. Did not use a gasket, however. Worked OK. My guess is it would work OK with a gasket as well. Probably need a few more coats though.
Thanks everyone for the info.
Sam
i like things as simple as possible, and ditto's for making woodies. right onto the raw wood, 3 to 4 wipes of right-outta-the-can minwax gloss polyu, with 0000 steel wooling 'tween each coat. wool the last coat to kill the gloss shine if need be.
k.i.s.s. is good! :D
As said. Let them dry. Longer the better. Most people rush this process.
I have used a couple of differnet sealers.
Raptors I like the best. (sponcer here)
http://www.raptorarchery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_123&products_id=285
Rich K.
I have been making them over 20 years and Use Zip Guard. Only need 2 coates. 1 over the stain then steel wool. crest and 1 over the crest. If you want them satin steel wool again. That is it. I can dip a dozen at a time and no bubbles. No smell. I have arrows that are 20 years old and still in perfect shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v462/Cbireley/photos285-1.jpg)
Do you use Duco over the Minwax, Pro-Fin and Zip Guard?
Duco on the Minwax, haven't used the others.
I use Fletch tite plantinum with the Zip Guard
Polyshades!
I use tape to fletch. However for nocks and a drop on each end of the fletch I use Duco. No issues as of yet.
Been using Raptor Dip for years with great results, no problems rain or shine and no smell. I expect my arrows to be bloodied and broken so rarely stain or crest. Duco works great for gluing fletching. I dull after the last coat to kill the gloss and wool between coats when I remember.
I've used MINWAX High Performance Wood Hardener on various wooden rods for years. This stuff soaks in and dries leaving the wood heavier, harder and tougher than it started. Never have used it on arrows, but I'd try it if I wanted stiffer, heavier shafts.
I made a PVC tube instead of the lightweight commercial ones. With a Schrader valve on one end you can pressurize after loading and filling. If you do a vaccuum soak first it works even better. This drives the stuff deeper into the wood. It would give you an almost composite arrow after drying.
FWIW
Here is my dip tank
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v462/Cbireley/001-7.jpg)