I am in the market for arrows. I have read a lot of post where guys are asking for opinions on what spine they need for there setup. It seems there is a wide range for the same setup. I shoot 45# @ 28. It looks like I could shoot anything from a 1916 to 2117 from what I have read. I am sure there is the ideal arrow. But am I wrong to think that I could to a point make about any arrow work out of my setup by adding point weight or cutting the shaft down.
It is true if you don't mind putting an unlimited amount of point weight on and shooting arrows 50% heavier than most people like.
Depending on your draw length,arrow length and cut of your sight window,most people would probably choose 1916's.If you wanted more point weight,possibly 2016's.I would stop there.2117's would require at least 300 grs of point weight and an arrow over 700 grs.
Go to bowmaker.net and read the tuning information.He has an excellent aluminum spine chart that will get you started.Most other charts recommend spines way too heavy.
As Jim B said, would need a little more info on your set up.
I shoot a Predator Hunter 46@28, I draw 27-27.5 and shoot 2016s cut to 29.5, 3 fletch, 4 inch feathers, 125 heads. Shoot slit finger with a glove.
I find I can use the same arrows for my 45-50lb bows. Arrows fly really well. Aluminum seams to have a wider ranger of spine the other arrows.
Also check the Stu Miller Spine Calculator.
What is your draw length?
The 1916 with 125 grain tip works really well for me. I usually shoot #45-46# at 28". My arrow is cut to 28.25". My draw length is 27.5"
The other arrow I have had great results with is the Beeman 600. My Beeman is cut to 28.5" with 50 grain insert and 100 grain field tip.
Hope this helps.
I Draw 27.5 inches RH bow is a 45# @ 28" Martin hunter. I shoot 3 under. I currently have 2016 Easton arrows. Fletched with 3LW 5" feathers. They are 30". These I know will work but what length and point weight. I am nervous to cut my arrows. I have only messed with tip weight. I do have an arrow saw. Just need an idea of what length cut at. I would like to shoot as heavy a head as I can with these arrows.
I just plugged in the specifications you've provided, in Stu's Caculator, which really works well for me.
45#@28" and your draw is 27.5"
Martin Hunter Recurve
3, 5" Feathers
I'm assuming a standard 20 grain insert
B50 String on your bow
If you cut your arrows to 28.75" and put on a 125 grain point the dynamic spine of your arrow and your bow will be within .5# of being identical. Stu recommends within 2# so this would be a near perfect match.
Your arrow would weigh 467 grains.
You will be within the 2# range if you cut your arrows to 29" by the way.
Of course your form, brace height, string type, and even "stuff" on the string like silencers can have minor to major affects on your tune.
I don't think you should cut anything.With a 30" 2016 and a 50# @ 28" bow that I draw 29",I need a 145 gr point.2016's are plenty stiff for a 45# bow,actually more like 43# in your case.Cutting will only make them stiffer.I would tune with point weight only and start with 175.No harm in starting with less but be prepared to go higher.Forget cutting and just work your way up through the point weights.You really need a bare shaft or two to shoot with fletched,to truly see what is happening.Fletching will compensate for tune being off.Bare shafts and a variety of point weights and you can figure it out quickly.
You'll have to decide if you want extra arrow sticking out the back of the bow. I don't like more than 1-1.5" but that's a highly personal thing.
Thanks for all input it has been very helpful.