Anyone bought the new Fred Bear Take down hunter in 2011 and 2012? How are they doing with it quality wise? are they cutting the arrow plate and shelf out correctly? Any thing else you want to share about the bow?
dad,
I'm not sure what bow you are asking about? I bought both the 2011 and 2012 Custom Kodiak Takedowns (Black with red stripe) and the new Bubinga TD. Are these the bows you are asking about?
Yes, they are the ones I'm asking about.
Those are sure nice looking bows!
its a crapshoot no 2 are the same!!
My Red stripe is excellent. Its smooth, fast, quiet and very stable. No issues whatsoever.
I've owned original, Green stripe, Supreme and both the 2011 and 2012 models. I'd like to have an original in A LH but that is about impossible. I like the new Bubinga best of all the others. The grip is more narrow than the 2011 Black and the riser is a bit less slim than the Supremes. I prefer A risers and that's what the one pictured below is.
The biggest surprise is that the new 2012 Bear Limbs are every bit as fast (chronograph) as my two pairs of Rose Oaks. The RO's do feel a bit "smoother" as I approach full draw at my 26" draw length.
My 2012 limbs pictured with the Bubinga below are #3 limbs which make a 60" bow on the A riser.
It took 12 weeks to get the bow once I ordered it on Dec. 14, 2012.
I sold my Black Red Stripe after a few weeks because the grip throat was just a bit larger than I like. It was 5.25". My new Bubinga is 4 6/8" which fits my small hands much better. To be honest though, I asked during an in-person visit to the factory that they make my grip under 5". I don't know if they granted my request or if all the new Bubingas are less than 5"?
Hope this helps?
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae50/bowwild/LRTDApartBearLimbsWindow.jpg)
Great review like always,Roy. :thumbsup:
I did shot both and I was surprised by the Bubinga.I was toying with the idea of #3 limbs at 45#. I was going to call 3-Rivers a call to see if they had any in stock.
You will find the #3 limbs smoother I think, especially if your draw is longer than mine. The limb tips are different than some of the past limbs with very triangular overlays. Just cosmetic. I think the wedges on the limbs are a very nice match with the riser.
Keep in mind of course that I'm a left-eye shooter and all LH bows are just a smidgeon more smooth and delightful looking than the more "common" RH models. :goldtooth:
Thank you for the pics and review. That set up sure looks nice. :cool:
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I'm looking for smoother to help out with my Arthritis.
I recieved my new bubinga riser("B")and 2 sets of limbs, #3@35lb and #1@45#. I couldn't be happier. The finish and the quality is top shelf. I have been shooting the 35# limbs for indoor league and they are smoother than my Black Widows, they're smoother than my '82's. There does seams to be a difference in the bubinga riser and the black diamond wood in the grip. Wish the bubinga had the diamond wood grip. Visited the factory, when I was down to the TBOF, and they are tring real hard to keep the BEAR name and the Bear reputation to the standards that would please Mister Bear. From what I've seen every employee and manager are giving it over 100% effort.
Love mine and have another on order for elk this year.
Stump Thumper thats the same as I was thinking about except I was going to do #3 on both limbs. How is the arrow plate is it more rounded so when you point the bow north is the arrow pointing north or is the arrow pointing north west or more west off the shelf?
Interesting... 4 3/4 on the throat is pretty close to my Type II riser. Might have to look into a bubinga, great feedback guys. tom
Not sure what your asking, are you talking about the side plate? Not sure how far off center they are cut, they come with the standard leather plate.
On the 35# limbs I'm using easton epic 600's with 150 up front and fly good, the 45# limbs I'm using either 2016 and axis 500's both fly good. Now if I could just get a good realease.
The shelf has a nice radius to it, with the bear rug.
Not sure what your asking? I'm not sure how far past center the riser is cut. It's sent with standarnd bear leather side plate an bear rug on the shelf. The self has a nice radius to it.
I'm shooting epic 600's or 1816's off the 35# limbs, and axis 500's and 1916's on the 45# limbs. All the arrows fly good , if i get off the string without plucking.
You can only get the #1 limbs if ordered as a complete bow, to get both #3 limbs you would have to order the limbs and the riser separately.
Can't wait till tomorrow, league night.
I believe "dad" is asking about centershot. Some of the 2000 era risers were poorly shaped and the window is cut way short of center. I have one that is like that. VERY dissapointing.
Oldskoolarcher, that's exactly what I'm asking about!
The funny thing about the 2000 era risers is that the center cut, or lack thereof which many people don't care for, is actually the most true to Freds shooting preferences. Page 46 of "The Archers Bible" 1968 edition Fred states: "As an example, I find that for my own shooting style it is necessary to build up my arrow plates a full 1/4 inch." I've read that this is from Fred learning to shoot longbows off of the knuckle.
I have heard the complaints about that era riser before and found Freds statement interesting in that his preferences matched the cut of that riser, even if it wasn't Bears intention when they finish cut the sight window.
No real point other than passing on the info that I found interesting.
Make mine a Bulbinga B riser!
That's interesting I do notice that some of the other bows out their have that to some degree. Bear seams to be more noticeable.