Trying to get my new bow dialed in and I'm curious how you all like to tune. Watching arrow flight, bareshaft, paper?
I use O.L. Adcock's method of shooting bare shafts along with fletched shafts and tuning based on how they group or don't group together. I am not a big advocate of paper tuning as I don't have a good enough release to send even a perfectly tuned bare shaft straight (like a fletched arrow flies) all the time.
I also use O.L. Adcock's method and check field point with broadheads using flecthed shafts at the end. Nice to see I am not the only one having trouble with paper tuning.
QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I use O.L. Adcock's method of shooting bare shafts along with fletched shafts and tuning based on how they group or don't group together. I am not a big advocate of paper tuning as I don't have a good enough release to send even a perfectly tuned bare shaft straight (like a fletched arrow flies) all the time.
Here's the link. Click on it and then click on "bow tuning":
http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm
I start by setting the bow up according to the bowyer's recomendations regarding nock locator and brace height.
Then I go to Stu's Calculator to build an arrow that should shoot well. Then I paper tune from 6, 9, and 21 feet.
My last and most crucial test is to shoot broadheads and field tips at 20-30 yards. (Broadheads first to avoid damaging arrows).
SO far this has worked out very well for me.
Good luck and I wish I was asking your question when I first started so many years ago!
OL 's Bareshaft method.
I set the brace height for a bow per the bowyer's recommendation. Then I use Stu Miller's calculator program for a starting point.
Then I shoot an arrow to see where the arrow is hitting on the target. I then fine tune by adjusting the brace height.
When the arrow is hitting where I'm looking and "seems" to be flying like a dart, I paper tune.
Then comes a broadhead tipped arrow to see if it's hitting the same place I'm aiming at. If it does, then I paper tune again only this time with the broadhead tipped arrow.
First I start with an arrow that matches my bow weight. The length is 1" longer than my draw, always a 125gr point or broadhead.
For the bow, I set my nock at 5/8", brace is set from the crack of my wrist to the tip of my middle finger in the deepest part of the grip. I might be lucky but 90% of every bow I ever owned shot perfectly at that setting. The others required a few more twists to raise the brace a bit.
I refuse to tinker with what works. This works for me, every time.
paper
I probably go overboard, but I bare shaft, paper tune and broadhead tune. It takes some time but I enjoy tinkering with them and I hate arrows that don't fly straight. I'm on board with OL's method.
I use OL's method as well.
Boyers recommended brace height range and bare shaft till nock is correct and bow is happy, then silencers and feathers.
I like to see how well it'll zip an arrow through a black bear first :)
I usually set bow to reccomended brace hgt, go to Stu's and put all the proper inputs in,make up the arrow, paper tune at 10'. Sometimes I have to tinker to get just so, usually nock hgt,paper test again than make up a BH and see how it flys and make adjustments as necessary. :thumbsup: :archer:
OL's Bareshaft Method for me, first with field points and then follow up with broadheads. It has worked great for me so far.