I should be receiving a couple of new bows in the next week or so, and I'm about to order a Surewood test kit. I've read some conflicting information on tuning wood arrows and was wondering what you wood experts do for tuning. Do you bareshaft tune, just like you would with aluminum or do you shoot fletched arrows of different spines and just see how they fly?
BTW, the aforementioned bows are:
Holm-Made Osprey - 44# @ 29"
Holm-Made River Runner - 47# @ 29"
So, figuring a 30.5" shaft, any input on spine/point weight for a starting point on either bow would be appreciated.
Try paper tuning and forgo the bare shaft tuning.
What distance should you be from the target when paper tuning?
I don't bare shaft wood. 55-60# 11/32 shafts should work for the lighter bow. May also work for the heavier one. May need to go up another five pounds for the 47# though. This is assuming a 125 grain point.
Not familiar with Holm-made bows but if you are talking recurves, I would try 60-65 spine, longbows I would go 55-60. I do mostly paper tuning. If your wood arrows aren't perfectly straight, I feel you will get misleading info with bareshafting.
Ten to fifteen feet(corrected) should work. Make a frame from 1x3's and get some sheet paper from the craft store and staple it to the frame. place the frame in front of your target about 3-4 ft.
Tail right = to stiff
tail left = to weak
tail high = move nock down
tail low = move nock up
(http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/lpcjon2/papertuning.jpg)
thanks, guys. that's helpful.
Center cut of the bow and type of string also affect the spine range you will need.
I'm curious... Does anyone advocate bare shaft tuning with woodies? I'm finishing up some test shafts myself...
i have a holm-made osprey 48@29 the 60-65s with 145gr point fly great for me. these are surewood at 550grs.
I paper tune. 12-15 feet is the proper distance for paper tuning, not 15 yards.
I did type yards, my bad thanks Shedrock...LOL
No problem sir, I have many typos myself.
For a really fast frame for paper tuning I use a large cardboard box and cut about a 1 foot plus square out. Then tape newspaper over the cut out.
Ron
Like the others, I recommed paper tuning for wood arrows. I use a PVC frame and newspaper and find being closer, like 6 feet from bow to target, to give me more visible results.
I have bare shaft tuned arrows crafted from Surewood Shafts (test kit)and have had good luck, but paper tuning should work just fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by Cookus:
I'm curious... Does anyone advocate bare shaft tuning with woodies? I'm finishing up some test shafts myself...
I don't think many people do that. I did it recently because someone suggested it, and I didn't like the results...lots of broken shafts. Woodies don't like flying sideways into a target.
I learned later that the type of wood also has a significant affect on the apparent spine. Some woods recover much slower than others. In general, hardwoods are more sluggish than cedar, spruce, etc. Therefore, shafts with the same measured spine will fly quite differently when bareshafted. You can correct this with fletching, so paper tuning will be better for you. Larger fletching will be better for more sluggish woods. This is the fun part, you get to try a lot of different things for your bow and your shaft and fingure out what works best for you.
I've bare shaft tuned cedar and douglas fir. Really doing paper or bare shaft will work. I think paper tuning is easier for most though.
WOW! The timing in this one. I just got done with 'rebuilding' some old cedars that were to short, my draw grew with strengh building, by footing them with walnut and tapering the last 10 inches. I shot through paper this morning and found I am now a touch weak and my nock is to high. The nock part is easy to fix, I use tied on nocks. I am going to try a 145 head from a 160 to see if that helps with the weak. I only have a 1/2 inch tear to the left.
Thanks for all the good info. :readit: I used a cardboard box today and tested my carbon and new wood arrows. Surprise, surprise!! I found out my nocking point was too low. This is the first time I have used the paper method but I really like it.
I think it is more accurate than bare shaft testing as you can "read" the results from your changes. No broken shafts either. Thanks again for all the tips.
Yes, thanks for all the good info indeed. I had a bunch of PVC laying around so built up a quick frame. The paper makes it very easy to see what's happening. I used a Surewood test kit on 2 separate bows an had great results. Only took a couple of different spines from a range of about 8 feet to find the best fit for each bow. Stepped back to the 12 yards that basement allows for and saw clean arrow flight.
I bare shaft everything. A short cut is if you use Stu Millers calculator, determine what carbon or aluminum works well then match the numbers up with the woodies. That get's me very close.