Yep... been keen on one for years as I want more of a personal feather shape than what is on offer. Hence an order through Kustom King.
I am worried about burning the sealant on my shafts when using the burning. So have you guys got any tips for a newbie please?
I have read somewhere one must turn the shaft fast... then I read one must use it slow....?
Cheers,
al.
I dont born all the way to the bottom. I trim about 1/16 with clippers. I use wraps and i have had them lift up on me when i go all the way down.
I set the "hot wire" so it clears the quill of the feather then trim with a #11 xacto blade.
Above tips are good ones. Also as for the turning. I have to turn it slow, otherwise I get a ragged edge. I also like to turn the shaft so the feather is coming up from the bottom of the wire. This allows the part of the feather you want to remove to fall away from the whole process. I tried it the other way first time and the part to remove flamed up a bit and fell back onto my good fletching and scorched it.. Just turn it from the bottom up and you will be fine.
Flinttim ,
Good comment!
Here is a little hint, if you lightly blow on the feather/ribbon as you burn each feather you won't have any flaming pieces it also gives a crisper edge, with not as much ragged melting of the feather.
Pat
I've been using a burner for over 15 years.After a little while residue gets built up on the ribbon and then doesn't cut as clean.I just change my ribbon then.Or just clean it with alittle steel wool.Like said burn it just above the quill.I was burning some feathers years ago on wood arrows with gasket lacquer,got to close and the lacquer light up like a match.A learning experience!
Oh baby... nothing like the smell of burning feathers!!! Just don't do it inside if you're hitched... it might just be the undoing... Ha!
Jonathan
Guess that's why I go outside on the porch!! :deadhorse:
Go slow. If you rotate it thru too fast the wire may flip back down into the shaft and burn your wrap or crest. As Flinttim said, rotate from bottom up. Also, be conscious of the degree of helical. You'll need to set the wire at the right angle to give you the right shape burn. I spend a lot of time getting the angle just right and can burn just about any shape without having to trim after and w/o burning my crest wrap.
My wife hates the smell but I refuse to go outside in the cold to burn em. :) Just open some windows and spray some febreeze after.
got mine last friday.. There is a little bit of a learing curve but after a few shafts,You will have it figured out. After you get it set cold, plug it in and use a old shaft to check clearence. After it gets hot it expands a little.
Woooooooo.Weeeeeeeee!!! They work but will run off the Neighbors! :archer:
When you shape your ribbon remember that when it gets hot it will sag down. Make up an old arrow with full length feather and use it as a practice shaft. to make sure its set good then you burn the good ones.
I cut a real thin pieces of tin,1/2 wide and bend around the shaft(I used beer can tin),now the ribbon rests on the tin and stops any scorching.being doing that for 25 years,PS burn outside!LOL
If you want to really make sure you're not burning the clear coat, paint etc. you can put a strip of double sided tape on a plain aluminum or carbon shaft. Place the shaft in your fletching jig, insert the feather into the clamp and press onto the tape. Take clamp off and burn the feather. Now you can take the feather off the tape and you can use it on your preffered arrow.
and yup, burn the feathers outside.
Blacky
Can't you just wrap a small piece of aluminum foil at the ends of the feathers on the shaft to protect the shaft from burning?
I haven't gone to those lengths, but it just might work, snag.
I get a residue on the shafts, put down by the smoke, but it wipes off with a bit of water. The wire will expand when hot, but you will learn to anticipate that and adjust it out from the shaft a little.
Working outside means that cold air and/or wind will remove heat from the wire. You may wish to use a windbreak to keep the wire as hot as possible. A real hot wire burns quickly and cleanly.
Killdeer
Wow, I've been thinking of getting one of these. You folks have given a bunch of outstanding tips.
ive had good luck with mine. slow or fast imo does not matter, just let the ribbon get good and hot (it dont take long) before you start tunning. i installed a switch on the cord for mine. i turn it off between each shaft. happy burning
All good tips (I like blackey's idea)but it's not really necessary after you've had some practice. Like anything else, there's a "learning curve". Don't practice with the "good" stuff right off. I've been using a Young feather burner for many years,and love the many shapes you can achieve with it. Once you get comfortable with it, problems will hardly ever come-up.
Thanks for all the tips guys and gals... Now to do some practice shafts up for the big day.
Many thanks,
al.
I wrap the shaft with painters masking tape and that seems to stop any discolouration of the finish.
As an aside, my burner is from way back. An old friend, now gone, gave me mine. He was 76 when he passed and it had belonged to his father.Anyway, how are they made now ? On mine the part your nock rotates in is in actuality the glass knob from a percolator coffee pot. Do they still use that ?
The one I have has a hard plastic knob style.
Start with old arrows first get the bugs worked out before you do your good arrows and If you like peace in the house :scared: do it outside or in the garage. To shape the ribbon take a feather the shape you like & trace onto ply wood (if you like it)just make it slightly smaller than you want it, the ribbon expands when :campfire: hot. With the wood forms you can change shapes(use a wood rod/arrow to press the ribbon to take the shape of the wood form) :archer2:
- i have 3 youngs, two set for the same fletch shape but different shaft diameters (carbon and wood) and one set for a different fletch shape (4 fletch banana) for a carbon shaft.
- yes, burning feathers does stink and smoke a goodly amount ... and i love it, nothing like burnt feathers in the morning. if it bugs your or your partner, run a fan backwards in a nearby window or do it outdoors.
- need to shape and align the wire to the shaft & feathers - if you have different shaft diameters, the wire will need to be re-aligned, dittos for different fletch locations on the shaft or different fletch lengths! be forewarned - burning is a one trick pony of sorts, but every resulting fletch will be *perfect*.
- it will take some tweaking of a new wire to find the correct distance from both the shaft and feathers, to make for a perfect burn. note that the wire will "grow" in size as it heats red hot.
- a "perfect burn" for me means that the feather has been burnt to the exact shape of the wire, both ends are trimmed, and the shaft is not "scorched" by the wire.
- always turn the shaft slowly, never fast - this is a hand's on learning process.
- after the feathers are burnt into fletches, i remove the arrow and run a fingernail down the edge of each fletch to remove most of the burn marks, and add a dab of duco/fletchtite to the fore and after ends of each fletch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/th_MOV06271.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/?action=view¤t=MOV06271.mp4)
I bought mine at least 45 years ago and it was used at that time. Mine has the glass percolator knob AND it is labeled as a Young Feather TRIMMER---not a burner.
I set my wire not to touch the shaft at all and to just barely touch the quill at front and back of the feather. I use an X-acto knife to finish trim both the leading and trailing edges of the feather quill after burning the feather to shape. Then I use fine sandpaper to remove any scorched residue from the feather itself. I'm sure you already know those things but I guess I got carried away.
Once you start turning the shaft and burning the feather, you must learn for yourself just how fast to turn, but I found that if you ever stop turning, you will likely burn and ruin the feather.