Hey Guys,
I know this has been covered a couple times and I did overview the posts on hunting with mountain bikes. My question is what are some basics that I should look for specifically when I'm shopping for my new bike? The available brands in this area are Giant, Specialized, and Schwinn. Are there special features I should look for that will make the bike better for hunting?
I'm looking at about a $500 budget and want the bike to work for hunting and normal casual riding. I have looked through Craigslist, etc and the prices asked in my area I might as well just buy a new one. So if anyone could help me out with some tips of what to look for and ask at the bike shop I would appreciate. Thank you!
Pat
I hate to tell you, but if you are looking at Giant, Specialized, Trek and Cannondale then expect to pay what you are seeing out there. These bikes have dependable components, which is why most are up in that price range. Hence, you could buy a cheaper bike...and that is what you will get...broken junk.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Richard:
I hate to tell you, but if you are looking at Giant, Specialized, Trek and Cannondale then expect to pay what you are seeing out there. These bikes have dependable components, which is why most are up in that price range. Hence, you could buy a cheaper bike...and that is what you will get...broken junk.
Rick- I have no problems spending the money on a good one. As I mentioned I have about a $500 budget to spend. I was just trying to say that I've looked through Craigslist for a deal and it would just be worth my while to buy a new bicycle. I am looking for some guidance about specific features, what to look for, what to avoid kind of a thing.
Pat
If you are riding off road, definitely get a mountain bike over a hybrid. Fatter tires and tougher wheels will take a pounding much better. Disc brakes are much better than the old style caliper brakes. Get fitted by a pro bike shop, you will thank them when the miles pile up. Mountain biking is a fun way to keep in shape and cover some ground lots faster than you can walk or run.
It's the components that make the better bikes and for hunting a good suspension is a must as most trails are rough to nonexisent. As for finding one in your price range, it's much like finding the right bow, patience and keep checking the classifieds.
Like centaur mentioned stay with a mountain bike with the fat tires, if it is in your budget try for the disc brakes, but cantilever brakes work well too. If it strictly to be used for hunting, handlebars with a stem that would let you sit more erect would be better. And, most important get one that fits you with a comfortable seat.
By the way, I use a bicycle when I hunt near Joliet Il.
Pat:
I spend the non-hunting season cycling, so I have a litle experience. First of all, as a rule-of-thumb, I recommend that people spend at least $1000 for an adult bike (i.e., not for a child), otherwise they will be disappointed with the quality of components, wheels, and overall quality of the bike. With a budget of $500, you are looking for a used bike, or last year's model that has been marked down (between now and let's say March may be a good time to find a good buy on last year's model). The brands that you mention are all top brands, so you're OK there.
I am not sure what features you will need for a "hunting bike"-depends on the terrian you hunt on and what you plan to carry. A couple of ideas though:
1. Think about getting suspension (shocks) on the front but not the rear (a "hard tail" Mt bike). A hard tail will be much easier for mounting racks, pulling a trailer, etc.
2. Get disc brakes - they perfom much better when things get wet and muddy.
3. Get a bike with rear rack mounts, if possible, although this is not all that important because most good racks come with mounting hardware that will work with any bike.
4. Bikes with two wheel sizes available, 26" and 29". I have bikes with both wheel sizes and I would recommend the 29" bike, which rolls over terrain much more easily and faster. The downside is that a 29" bike may not be quite as nimble on steep, rocky terrain. Try to test ride both sizes if possible.
My experience helping friends buying a bike is this-if your are in doubt between two bikes with different a quality level and price, then buy the more expensive, higher quality bike. Otherwise you may be disappointed and end up getting a second, better bike later.
When I lived and hunted in Fl. I used a bike everyday and hunted just about everyday. I camped in a tent in the public land campsite and lived up there from Sept. through first part of Jan.
It was about a 6 mile bike ride to the area I hunted and that was crossing two creeks about mid tire depth, through hog root'n, old tram, trails, sand and woods roads.
I just left my bike in the woods every night to keep from having to load it up. My point in all this is that I couldn't get one to last much more than a couple of yrs. at the most, so I just bought cheap mountain bikes from Walmart and then ordered the good components I liked. Such as a big seat with shock absorber in the stem, handle bars that would reach way back so I didn't have to lean way foreword, a rack for the back to haul climbers, good bow and gun rack for handle bars and a handle bar basket. When my bikes wore out I'd just take the good components off and put them on my new $50 dollar bike. I figured about $25 a yr for a bike wasn't so bad.
Stick with Shimano LX, XT, SLX or XTR components, SRAM 7.0 or above if you go that route.
Seriously, it will pay off to get older versions of these components than to buy newer junk.
You can easily find solid bikes on Craigslist with those sets. Just be sure to ride and look it over well.
I have spent a lot of time on a bike as well and you definitely get what you pay for. You can purchase a pretty decent bike for 500 and always upgrade certain components later. As Adrian stated front suspension is great, rear suspension is a gimmick in all but the highest level of competition bikes so go with a hardtail. I dont expect you are looking for performance, more for reliability. Nashbar has a great catalogue and they sell some pretty nice house brand bikes for reasonable prices with good components. Pm me if you need any further help.
For hunting, mountain bike only no cross type bike, take the 2" wide tires. I have sold some bikes on craiglist and bought one. I picked up a Specialized mountain bike for 80 bucks, put two new tires on and it's good to go. Same as anything I would not leave a decent bike in the woods while hunting, by something cheap. Trek, Specialized the older ones are just heavier
Adrian has some very good points above. I've got $3,500 into my road bike and fit is so key if you're going to spend a lot of time on a bike!!! I would definately watch for a discounted bike at a shop if you can find a few in your area (Chicago should have lot's of shops). Perhaps look to see if there's a cycling club in your area and get the word out there that you're looking. One of the big shops in my area sells used bikes, so that's certainly an option once you have some potential bikes in mind. The comment on components above is valid-they'll hold up longer and be less troublesome on rides. Get the larger mountain bike tires, but don't be afraid to look at the tires with a smoother style tread in the middle and knobby on the edges. If you're riding two track roads that are firm, the easier rolling from middle tread will keep the tire from making it a rough ride. Finally, when you do start riding, it's better to spin your legs in a lower gear than to push a hard gear (it may seem like it's taking more energy and you aren't going as fast), but it will save wear and tear on your knees.
You want lots of gears with an emphasis on the low end. A way to pull a trailer like is used to pull the kids is handy for gear.
Bikes are like bows. Sure, it's possible to overspend, but generally, there are more regrets among those who underspend...
...Unless you know what you're doing and can pull off some kind of a sweet deal on Craigslist or at a pawn shop.
I personally would say that you probably don't need shocks on the front OR the rear. Get a seatpost with suspension in it, and your riding comfort level will be improved. But, by all means, avoid the bargain bikes if you can. There's a world of difference between what you would get from a real bike-shop bike and what you would get from Wal-Mart or Target. And it's true, today's bicycles are all about the components that they are fitted with (brakes, derailleurs, etc.).
I ride my mountain bike A LOT. To work and back (17 miles)... Out hunting... Goofing around off road... To the store for a gallon of milk... I tried to convince my wife to get a good bike, but when she wanted one, she decided to save money and buy the best bike Wal-Mart had to offer. Within a week, she hated it, and hardly ever rides it as a result. It was a complete waste of money. Yet, she loves riding my Gary Fisher bike, even though it's way too big for her.
The best mountain bike I ever owned was a Trek Elk. I have tried ones with the shock absorber seats and front forks and find them very uncomfortable to ride. I like a good fixed frame bike,wide tires and thumb shifting(not handle shifting types).Take into consideration of the area you plan to hunt and weather on not you have to worry about theft(where you decide to ditch the bike for the final walk in) while hunting.You may not be able to modify one of the expensive bikes to do what you want and hold a bow rack.start cheep and work out the kinks.
Good advise from all above......take your time looking and buy the best you can afford. I bought a bottom end but good quality bike 10-12 years ago for $500+, good stuff was $1500+ or more. Now you can get much better than I got for $500. Enjoy!! :thumbsup: You also have to think how you can carry your bow and gear....you are planning to use this to hunt?
Pat - PM sent with a link that might be of interest to you. Good luck.
RB
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Bushong:
Pat - PM sent with a link that might be of interest to you. Good luck.
RB
I would be interested in the link as well. I'm planning on getting my wife and I one this spring, mine is for hunting purposes, and her's is for pleasure.
Do you ever get to Northern Mi. I have a Specialized Hardrock, I would make you a heck of a deal on. It is a hard tail. Great bike. I bought a new 29"er to race with last year.. I am driving to Southern Mi in a week or so. Thank you
Keep in mind when you harvest an animal you will make to trips out, one with the animal and one for the bike.
My wife and I did tons of mountain biking ten years ago but not so much lately due to family stuff. But when we were serious about it most bikes less than about $900.00 were not worth messing with as they just don't hold up off road. I destroyed some of the best high end components back in the day with just normal off roading wear and tear. My bikes were in the $1500.00 range
This past fall I stopped into my favorite local bike shop, haven't been there in ten years. ( like I said I've been out of the loop for current off road trends). I got to talking with the mechanic about maybe replacing my wife's bike with a new bike. But after looking at bikes equivalent to her 13 year old bike I would still have to spend about $1500.00 for not much improvement.
My point is we purchased bikes that were higher end years ago and they are still very good bikes even today. The biggest changes in the last 10 to 15 years have been in the braking systems. Going from cantilever to disc.
If you want a bike that will last, buy a good one. There is nothing worse than trying to cross a stream and throwing a chain because you derailer is junk. We rode with some friends that were quit thrift and they ended up pushing their bikes out of the woods most of the time.
Mountain bikes are like binoculars spend as much as you can on them and it will pay off in the long run. Glen
Besides Craigslist try the local cycle shop bulletin boards and the local cycle club sale pages on their websites. There may yet be a deal out there. I use a 1996 Gary Fisher hardtail with original "entry level" components. I changed out the cassette to a lower range of cogs and the small chain ring to a 24 tooth. Other than change saddles, pedals and grips, a chain here and a headset there, over the years it has given great service with an initial cash outlay of $250.00
I'd get a 2011 or if still out there a 2010 Specialized Rockhopper Hardtail. Ask for the shop's best price. They have a little wiggle room.
Get with your local IMBA chapter and ask for help and advice.
If your terrain is hilly to flat, rather than hilly to mountainous, you may even want to look at getting a BOB trailer. But their capacity is limited.
http://www.bobgear.com/ibex
Get to some bike shops now as they could still have some 2011 bikes in the system for a good deal. I got my road bike that way and saved over 40%.
Good luck.
After working in several shops over the years... and spending the majority of my life on two wheels, here's my quick two thoughts.
1)If you want to go new... Giant is normally the best bang for your buck. They make frames for several of the other companies out there so their overhead on the largest single component is minimal, the price you pay goes more into components.
2)Their are several places on the web similar to TradGang that are filled with great folks doing the same thing.. talking story, trading advice and equipment. I would check the classifieds from MTBR.com and PinkBike.com I have purchased multiple bikes and components from MTBR's classifieds. They have a wonderful review section as well.
...just like Archery nothing in the world could compare to a great local shop, but not everyone has one. You get what you pay for, if you keep your money local, you get your support local a little cheaper... spend your money over the internet, get your help blindly over the internet, and eventually pay for parts you didn't use, didn't need, but who knows, you can save a buck. I know it sounds bias from working in a shop... but I have paid the price to learn it... and still don't follow it. They use to say you can tell a good bike mechanic by how much money he has spent on ruined bike parts. Same goes for archery, I just can't seem to find a shop that I trust or want to go back to, so I will continue to lurk the pages here, order blindly and have some random crap I can't use, or can't use effectively... or just broken in the basement hidden from my wallet's view. I really just need to find a shop. even with an hour drive it would be much cheaper... and less time.
Check out a 29er. The bigger wheels have some advantages over 26ers especially in hard tails.
For the price range you are looking at, used or waiting for a sale would be your best bet. Specialized, Marin, Scott, Yeti are all good brands - even on the lowend. Even better when you get them on sale.
It has been mentioned, but definately make sure that you buy the right size bike. You can search online to find out how to figure the correct frame size, or ask at a shop when you are there. Just don't fall for a good deal on a used one if the frame isn't the right size for you.
Also as so many have mentioned, the biggest difference in quality is in the components. Buy the best you can afford.
I have about 15 seasons of experience as a bike mechanic. A few season's experience riding technical mountain bike trails (with accompanying injuries, which don't help my shooting any!).
You DO want to go with a major brand name bike, from a reputable specialty shop.
You WILL probably want to look at around $650-700 as a starting point for a bike that will actually hold up off road. More, if performance is important. You want an oil filled or air filled front fork (suspension). NOT a "polymer" or "elastomer" action.
You'll get Shimano or Sram components: neither very good at the lower end, but low end Sram is the worst. Refer to starting price.
Each major mfg.'r offers something competitive, overall quality will be similar for similar $. One will trade a higher end this for a lower end that. Refer to starting price.
Specialized "hard rock" would be the most minimal range for reliability. Better to step up a notch, probably their "rockhopper"
in line. Trek, Giant, Rocky Mtn., Kona, etc., will offer comparable quality for price.
2 weeks ago, I went in to a local bike shop to discuss this very issue. I had a list from other posts here that I went over with the guy (front suspension, disc brakes, better seat, etc.) I like the idea of going to the small local shop vs. the line up at the various Mart's.
I came out of there with a down payment (layaway)on a Norco Wolverine and a nice feeling, well fitting helmet. $825.00 tax in. Both products last years models, on sale. Not done yet as I'll be getting a back rack and fender kit (another $100.00, approx.)
Probably not the end of the financial pain, but this is my first bike in 50 years and I have to see what it is that I'll need/want. This bike is the next step up from entry level at this shop. They're a full service place and I feel good about it. Maybe upgrade, maybe not.
As above, fit and feel with dependability are the important features. My riding is on our 250 acres only, (for now) on trails that I made. Won't be "getting any air" unless it's me "leaving" the bike unexpectedly! Trailer not necessary, as a successful hunt will bring out my workhorse Honda 500 Foreman. My plan is to use the unit as a relatively silent (and hopefully less scentful) way to approach my hunting grounds. We'll see...
Double walled rims
Some pretty sound advice here. Personally, since this is your first "good" bike, I'd buy from your local bike shop, not a pawn shop or CraigsList. Why? You get no warranty or service support. Plus, you'll have to take that bike straight to the shop for a checkup and likely spend some money to make it trailworthy anyway. Your LBS will appreciate the business as well. Another thing is to make sure you take the bike in for it's 30 day/50 mile "new bike" tune up, most shops do this for free, but you should ask to make sure. The reason is cable stretch, wheels get out of true, bearing settle in, etc. so it won't be running at it's best.
As for buying a bike, ride as many different one's that you can. There is a difference between brands and models and you'll know which one feels right for you. Buy the best you can afford.
One last thing, if you find a Yeti for $500 it's either beat to $#@% or stolen.
Back in 2004 i got into road cycling abd my buddies talked me into buying a trek 5500 with a custom paint jop, different handle bars, heart rate moniter, repatition counter, watch that tell altitude, temp, speed you name it and it has it.
Anyway i had been riding for about 6 months with a CHEAP bike $800 dollars, laos about 40Lbs and could drag a deer out of the woods while my friends lay in my wake. :biglaugh: All kidding aside i became addicted to the feeling of that tiny seat and couldn't wait to dress up and go ride sometimes all day with over 20 people.
Anyway that day at the Bike shop i walked out of there with a bill for $8,700 dollars Bike, watch clothes and all. The other day i was on Craigslist and saw some of these bikes and the asking price was only $1,800 dollars.
A lot of people impulse buy when buying these expensive bikes and then they hardly ever ride them and these high end Bikes will take thousands of miles if taken care of, mine has.
So i would for sure get on Craigslist and even if you have to drive 3 hours to pick the bike up its worth it. Also go to a Bike shop and ask a lot of questions about gears, tires, frame etc.
Joe Van
I have a decent mountain biking history I own a Yeti 575 and have gone on mountain biking vacations and even a mountain bike themed wedding (very fun). Alot of good advice given here. What has been said about a 29" is true but I find there are not many choices and parts are harder to find plus parts cost more so I would stay away from a 29" for my first real mountain bike.
Unless you really get into mountain biking a hard tail(front only suspension) is all you will need. For those saying a full suspension is a gimmick must be ridding nothing more then carriage trails as a full suspension does make a huge difference especially once you get into technical riding. Not saying it can't be done with a hard tail(been there done that).
Brakes go disc you don't need hydraulic, mechanical will do you just fine.
As for brand any of the name brands are good everyone has their favorites just like anything else.
Don't forgot to ride with a helmet at all times also don't forget biking requires different gear you will need at a minimum a bike pump, extra tube, tire patches, tire levers, and a multi tool. To go riding in the woods without at least this list you are asking for problems. Also make sure you ride before you hunt, you want to get use to the trails and get your body use to the bike. You will be saddle sore your first time, don't worry it goes away.
Good luck and have fun. shoot me a pm if you have any other questions.
Guys,
Thanks for all the help and advice. There's a lot here to sift through. I would love to be able to spend $1k on a bicycle, but it just ain't gunna happen. The budget won't allow it.
I would like to be able to use this bicycle occasionally for hunting and was interested in some things to look for for that purpose. You guys have definitely helped me with that. Odds are the this bike will be rode mostly around town and on camping trips.
Thanks a bunch again, I really appreciate all the help!
Pat
I had a redline 29 ss for awhile but sold it went I built up a vassago 9speed , I miss the single speed for hunting though, nothing hanging down to catch on stuff. I do like a 29er over a 26er. No shocks on mine. The redline was under 500