Thought I would do a little "How To" while I did this for people that were interested. I see things better with pictures, so maybe this will help a bit. This was not my idea, so I can not take credit for the idea.
Materials needed:
*8/32 Threaded Rod
*File for the threaded rod after cutting to length
*8-32 NC Tap
*Blue Loc Tite
*Side cutting pliers or Dremel
*Your aluminum inserts
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts001.jpg)
First step is to tap your inserts. I started at the threaded end, screw the tap in an continue to thread until tap is all the way through your insert
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts003.jpg)
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts002.jpg)
The next step is to cut your threaded rod to whatever weight your looking for. I cut several for those that don't have a grain scale I cut a 1", 1.5", 2", and 2.5" piece of rod.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts005.jpg)
1"
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts006.jpg)
1.5"
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts007.jpg)
2"
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts008.jpg)
Pretty cool,and more precise than my splitshot jb weld method.Good thinkin!
2.5"
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts009.jpg)
I then filed the end of the rod where cut so the threads are clean, If you have a die in 8/32, that would be the right way to do it. choose the weight you need and thread it into the insert. I thread the fieldpoint (125gr) in first then the rod. i would recommend puting a little loc-tite on it once you decide on the weight.
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts010.jpg)
Just for reference, Here is the total weight of the 2" rod with insert and 125gr field point.
188.2 Grains
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts011.jpg)
2.5" rod with insert and 125gr field point
203.8 Grains
(http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/wjackson11x/Inserts012.jpg)
The possible combos are endless, if you want to get your arrows tuned perfect, then this would be a great way to do it cheap. I think I have about $7-8 in materials. The tools and inserts I already had. Good luck, Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for posting this! I'm curious, do you get any rattling from the insert hitting the inside of the shafting when you shoot?
Wes, I am glad this idea worked for you! My small explanation on your first post was simple and you took it to another level for sure. Very informative with all the pictures..Henry
I have yet to shoot any, I'm going to be tuning my Grizzly soon and will let ya know on the rattling. Heatshrink tubing could always be used over the rod if that was the case. I would assume if you used a long piece of rod, that it may cause some noise.
Henry- Thanks for the idea, I couldn't remember who it was that told me to try it.
Solid brass screws will give you a little more weight.
Been doing this since Gold Tip first hit the market and realized I didn't have to buy their weights! Good pics and thread. You can buy brass 8/32 screws at Lowes and snip the head off at varying lengths saving the factory threaded end so you don't have to rethread anything for different weights also.
Great idea, and thanks for the foresight of posting weights of different lengths. Been meaning to get a scale, but well, been meaning to get a fletching jig, been meaning to get a new set of arrows, been meaning to get a new takedown...yadda yadda yadda, lol.
Great idea on the brass screws! I'm sure you could buy a brass threaded rod somewhere, that would be ideal. The possibilties are endless, feel free to geve some ideas or criticism, that is why I posted this. Hopefully it will allow me to tune my arrows without spending a ton on inserts, points, weighted tubes, etc.
It works awsome and is soooo very cheap! I've done this with the brass. Just get the 8-32 2". They work real nice.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x94/vlcnrydr/shared%20photos/DSCF1322.jpg)
To answer an earlier question...nope they don't rattle when shot.
I wrap the end with black tape to prevent rattling and you can use it to fine tune the weight on each one to match.
Awesome! Nice tutorial, and a great idea.
ttt
creative... i like it :thumbsup:
Use 100 gr brass inserts w/brass screws for ultra heavy up front FOC.
Guys thats cool, If you thread it half way out the point end you can add wing nut or a couple of Teflon nuts and have a small game head.
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Guys thats cool, If you thread it half way out the point end you can add wing nut or a couple of Teflon nuts and have a small game head.
Now, that's a great idea. Never thought about that one
Is the idea to be able to hit weights that fall in between the standard field point weights?
You can get field points/broadheads from 75 grn to 315 grn, not sure of the purpose for the tapping and addition of screws? Nice tutorial, I'm just curious.
I believe its for adding internal weight that can be adjusted for tuning.
To me it was a way to tune my arrows and know what weights would work best. I'm still in the process of tuning. It's just a cheap alternative until you can figure it out. Then I guess you can buy the correct inserts, field points, broadheads, or just use these inserts.
That's a heckuva good idea and money saver too! Nice tutorial as well!
I'm thinking this could be done with arrows that already have the inserts installed and either use set screws or brass that's slotted so they can be installed from the point end... it would probably take a few tries to set the depth of the weight... but it wouldn't require the inserts to be removed.
If you use hotmelt to install your inserts, its very easy to remove them. Just heat up the fieldtip enough to melt the glue, then pull the insert out. That makes it a lot easier.
Great idea and nice job posting it up here.
Anohter thing that works well if you know what weight you're looking for, is garden variety component bullets. The OD is alwayswithin .0001" and the weight varies less than a grain. I usually expoxy the shank end facing front behind an insert.
A 3' steel 3/16" rod bought at the hardware store for around $2 helps me get epoxied inserts out of carbons.
I've tried the drill bit trick without luck. The steel rod has the weight behind it to remove the inserts in about two pops. Even the toughest ones give in after a few thunks of the steel rod.
I'm sure you would need the 8-32 tap afterwards to clean out the threads from being smashed if you were doing the threaded rod weight system.
If they did rattle get some shrink tubing, just put it on the rod.
Wess, well done.The pictures are worth a 1000 words....Thanks
TTT
I just tried this and what a great idea...I now have a dozen new 50 grn inserts ready to go!
Thanks again for the idea!
To me this is just cool as crap because I can use any standard weight broadhead that I can buy at any sporting goods store and tune accordingly to standard weight field points. No searching endlessly for "trad" stuff that you have to buy online and pay shipping for. I can instead go to my local place and buy Thunderheads or Stingers if I want to kill a deer and still get 250-300gr up front if I want.
To me that is the beauty of this. Awesome!
I do exactly this, for about a year or so. No rattling, and works great!
Don't know if anyone else has already mentioned this, but I did end up having to cut a little off the threaded ends of my points or glue-on adaptors. The inserts aren't long enough to accomodate the length of the threaded rods and also the screw-in ends of the points.
If someone would just start making standard inserts just a little bit longer, pre-threaded...
This works great and I hate paying 14 bucks a dozen for brass inserts. My easton RPS inserts are threaded all the way and long enough to get several treads in. Just wrap screw with masking tape to fill shaft glue brass screw in and then put epoxy on tape and insert slide her in! I use 125 glue on heads with 125 steel adapters. I plan to boost insert up to 100 for a total of 350 up front.
nobody mentioned this, but if you get the 8-32 all thread, just buy a few 8-32 nuts. Put the nut on, cut ahead of the nut and the nut becomes the thread "chaser" to smooth off where you cut. Did that for years on other projects.
I've not sprung for the 8-32 tap, but I like the brass inserts for their length and strength...like the length because it serves like a mini-internal footing. But yeah, they've gotten ridiculous in cost.
QuoteOriginally posted by Craig:
If they did rattle get some shrink tubing, just put it on the rod.
Took the words right out of my mouth. Cool idea, might have to give it a try.
Jason
If they will work in your arrows, Carbon Express inserts are threaded all the way through. At least mine are.
They are long enough for both the arrow head thread and the bolt thread and they fit nice and tight in Gold Tips too.
I will be doing this. Good thread!
Cool
Very good.Good pictorial too.Thanks for putting it together.
I will give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
Sounds like a great idea, but has anyone tested to see if the length of the rod effects the spine of the arrow ?, and also, though the rod does not make any noise, what about the flexing of the arrow, I would think the rod is going to start wearing out the inside of the carbon arrow from possible friction ?
Just some thoughts on this.
Great tutorial. My alum inserts are like this and need to be tapped but the CX inserts are open and fully threaded already
I just got new ICS shafts and the inserts are plenty long and have hole all the way through. I just had to run a tap through as the threads didn't go all the way through.
Notice how this thread keeps getting dragged back to the top?
Great tutorial and ought to be a permanent "How to".