I was in my local Ace Hardware store and noticed that they sell blocks of pure beeswax. I have heard about it before and wondered what its good for and if I should buy some.Can it be used straight on a bow string or does it have to be mixed with something. I normally used Bohning string wax.
It's one of natures wonders and yes you can use it straight and if you cut it at about 75% Beeswax with 25% Neetsfoot oil it's some of the best leather preserver and water proofing out there.
Edit: Did you know that Honey is the only food product that never spoils....stupid trivia that is stuck in my head.
I think I am going back and buy some then.Thanks Mike
I've got a friend that's a BeeKeeper, and I bum a 1/2# from him every once and awhile. Its good stuff! Use it as is on string. Or you can do a search and find several different mixtures to try.
MikeW, Honey is already digested, so when it goes into your mouth, it heads straight to where it's needed. All sorts of good uses for honey!
Johnny/JAG
QuoteOr you can do a search and find several different mixtures to try
Yeah I've seen recipes for mixing it with toilet bowl ring wax to use as bow string wax but don't know the percentage or why you would need to do it in the first place, it's fine as is.
My luck the bow would shoot like crap if I mixed it with a toilet bowl ring wax...LOL
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
My luck the bow would shoot like crap if I mixed it with a toilet bowl ring wax...LOL
Now that funny i dont care who you are.
search 1 (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=049401)
search 2 (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=049847)
search 3 (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=056665)
search 4 (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=110532)
Here are a few old threads on the subject. There are quite a few more if you just type in beeswax. Hope this helps.
Thanks Randy
"...why you would need to do it in the first place, it's fine as is."
Wax serves two purposes on a bowstring--waterproofing and lubrication. Since modern materials are not affected by moisture like sinew and such, lubrication/maintenence is the primary reason you wax your string.
Bowstring material is made up of lots of little fibers. When you shoot, these fibers rub against each other and break--that's why strings fuzz up. To get the best protection against this, you need a wax that will penetrate into the string, not just coat the outside. Straight bee's wax is too hard, unless you melt it (whole 'nother set of problems there). Mixing it with another compatable material softens it so it's easier to get it down into the fibers.
Materials like BCY's 8125G and the new 8190 incorporate GORE fiber in the material. It's similar to Teflon, and helps lubricate the string--that's why these materials fuzz up less.
Chad
I've mixed pure beeswax with Montana Pitch Blend OIL to make a good string wax. (It takes very little oil)
QuoteOriginally posted by LBR:
"...why you would need to do it in the first place, it's fine as is."
Wax serves two purposes on a bowstring--waterproofing and lubrication. Since modern materials are not affected by moisture like sinew and such, lubrication/maintenence is the primary reason you wax your string.
Bowstring material is made up of lots of little fibers. When you shoot, these fibers rub against each other and break--that's why strings fuzz up. To get the best protection against this, you need a wax that will penetrate into the string, not just coat the outside. Straight bee's wax is too hard, unless you melt it (whole 'nother set of problems there). Mixing it with another compatable material softens it so it's easier to get it down into the fibers.
Materials like BCY's 8125G and the new 8190 incorporate GORE fiber in the material. It's similar to Teflon, and helps lubricate the string--that's why these materials fuzz up less.
Chad
That's why I melt it in with a hair dryer, same with my boots. Am I doing something wrong?
"That's why I melt it in with a hair dryer, same with my boots. Am I doing something wrong?"
I wouldn't say "wrong", but you have to be careful. String materials are heat-treated--too much heat applied to them can cause weak spots, excessive stretch, etc.--just like getting the blade of a knife too hot and messing up the temper. Not a concern with softer wax that doesn't require that much heat to get it rubbed in.
Chad
Another use for it is a natural polish and water proofer for your wood arrows. Just rub the block up and down the arrow shaft a few times and then run the shaft quickly back and forth through a cotton jersey rag. The friction will melt and spread the wax over the shaft and leave it slick and shiny. Makes removal from tight targets much easier.
I use it in the threads of my field tips to keep them from becoming loose!
i have used mine straight on my strings for years. i think i got it from j&m traditons.
I use Beeswax straight too. More effort to apply but that is why it stays on the string longer and protects and lubricates longer than the softer stuff. Personally would never contaminate Beeswax with petroleum products.
I mold my Beeswax in a leather sheath so I can get the friction going on the string to melt it into the string fibers.
(http://www.rangersarchery.com/?q=sites/default/files/styles/large/public/field/image/Bee_string_wax.jpg)
i use it to cure my receding hairline.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i use it to cure my receding hairline.
How is that working? ya know before I go and get waxy up top.
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i use it to cure my receding hairline.
How is that working? ya know before I go and get waxy up top. [/b]
not too well. i think it needs to be blended with paraffin.
it also works great for potting pickups.
can you tell i already have hunting withdrawals? :eek:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i use it to cure my receding hairline.
Dang wish i would have known this 30 years ago, now all it would do is give me waxy buildup.
Rob lost me at potting pickups...LOL
Mix it with some coconut oil and you have some great lip balm or suave for cracked dry hands, rub that in you head and tell me how it turns out.
DUCKS
Take a metal bucket about 2/3's full. Boil and put about 5 pounds in to melt. Rough pluck your ducks w/guts inside. Dip in melted wax, into another bucket of icewater. Repeat once or twice and allow to cool. Pull wax off and your ducks won't even have pinfeathers left.
Reuse wax until its just too feathery.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i use it to cure my receding hairline.
lol seriously? does it work? lol i dont need to worry where my hair is... its all down the drain in my bathtub. lol!!! :laughing:
QuoteOriginally posted by LKH:
DUCKS
Take a metal bucket about 2/3's full. Boil and put about 5 pounds in to melt. Rough pluck your ducks w/guts inside. Dip in melted wax, into another bucket of icewater. Repeat once or twice and allow to cool. Pull wax off and your ducks won't even have pinfeathers left.
Reuse wax until its just too feathery.
i'd never heat up wax directly, too dangerous. always put the wax pot in hot water (double boiler) to melt it.
I make leather dressing out of beeswax, rendered deer fat and a couple other ingredients. I've given away a good bit of it here and at Mojam and always hear good things back. I kinda jokingly call it "Bulla-Bulla Boot Butter". Usually I make a big ol' stock pot full of it and pour it into small tupperware type dishes. I melt it directly on the stove and have never had an issue.
Bee's wax is flammable but you need either direct flame or some pretty intense heat. A normal stove burner set on med/low works just fine. Now, don't go ladling it out of the pot or try to pour while the burners are lit or anything like that but just heating it to melt? No need for a double boiler. Electric burners might be tougher to regulate but gas is easy.