has anyone added bleeders to a 2 blade that wasnt slotted for them? if so could you share how to do this?
thanks,
steven
I think it would be easier to buy a head with bleeders(like a 4 blade Zwickey) then try and do it,it could ruin your existing heads.
I do not have a clue on how u would do this. What I do know is that the ones designed to accept bleeders are a pain in the rear to get the blades into. That's just my experience though
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
I think it would be easier to buy a head with bleeders(like a 4 blade Zwickey) then try and do it,it could ruin your existing heads.
I have done it with some Magnus heads before. You need a Dremel tool with a thin metal cutting wheel and a steady hand. I just cut a slot in them free hand and it worked fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by dnovo:
I have done it with some Magnus heads before. You need a Dremel tool with a thin metal cutting wheel and a steady hand. I just cut a slot in them free hand and it worked fine.
And dont slip!
30 years ago, I made a jig and glued blades from a wasp broadhead on the ferrule, with JB Weld. Rough up the metal and clean it with acetone first. You can also solder them on with a soldering iron. Works ok, but I had the blades pop off once on a rib.
I read a Jack Howard article once in an old Bowhunter magazine, on how to do that. I forgot the details, but someone else might remember. I think the razor blades were super glued on...?
We used a # 409 blade in a dremel tool to slot the Zwickey delta and eskimo and cut our bleeders from steele banding. Ground an angle on the bleeder then sharpened them with a file and flat steele . We had huge blood trails and no difference in penetration that we noticed on deer and bear between the 4 blade and 2 blade, the blood trails started where the animal was hit !!!
Jack Howard snapped razor blades diagonally with a pliers and then clamped, epoxied and baked them in an oven. Way more work than it is all worth.
Jack Howard used Pliobond to glue his blades to broadheads. They were clamped and then baked to cure the glue.
How about these I did? I have put bleeders ( Magnus, CatClaw, Bear, Ace, Missile Spike ) into Snipers,Nubbins, Zwickeys, Deadheads, Howard Hill, Out Back Supremes.
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/2466/1002145g.jpg)
Ron,
What size and type wheel did you use... I slotted some Stos and the bleeders were just a bit sloppy... yours look much "tighter"
Jonathan
I used to glue razor blades on to a broadhead with contact cement, used pliobond when I could get it. I would put coat of glue on the broadhead and one on the razor blade and let it dry. After drying added another coating of glue to broadhead and blade, while still wet placed the razor blade on the broadhead and squeezed with a pair of pliers. The bond was almost instant, usually clamped them in place overnight with the bulldog type paper clips. Made for one very wicked and sharp head.
Use a dremel with a thin metal cutting wheel or clamp the head in position and drill a small hole through the ferule, then insert thin metal saw blade through hole and saw slit.
Matter of fact: I was planning to do some Zwickey Deltas with Magnus Bleeder blades. I like the toughness of the Zwickey, but like the better bloodtrails with a detachable bleeder.
Detachable bleeders can be sharpened easily with a GATCO or similar knife sharpeing system. I don't like the Zwickey 4 blades, where just some ferule metal is bent up to form the bleeders.
Raghorn,
Awesome looking heads!
Rag horn nice!
I too used to m
Glue injector blades (remember them) on broadheads