Sitting here wondering how hard it would be to make a broadhead. Well, I'm not one to sit for a long time, so I found the dullest circular saw blade I had sitting around and here is 6 minutes later...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/48e41f26.jpg)
Then 2 1/2 minutes later a a little file work I had this...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/903645ed.jpg)
Now it's time to get back to work before the boss catches me. One of these nights I'm going to have to get this glued onto a Douglas Fir shaft.
That's being the inonative thinker Mike, How much does that blade weigh? Keep us posted on the finished product. We used to call that kind of work "goverment jobs" LOL :D
I'll weigh it tonight and let you know.
Mike I cant imagine if you ever got into knitting what the outcome would be. You always seem to amaze me with your efforts.
:thumbsup:
Nice Mike. What did you use to cut the saw blade?
You got way to much going on in that head of yours my man.
I will take six. :wavey:
Please( :thumbsup: looking cool Mike)
I used an awl to etch what I wanted on the blade, then just a simple hacksaw with the saw blade clamped in a vise for safety.
Nice! I am going to try that myself this year. Looking forward to seeing it mounted on those glow in the dark arrows of yours :thumbsup:
Looks really good Mike!
Nice. I'll have to try that some day.
I think this will be a winner if I can figure out how to attach it to a shaft.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/028a2b4a.jpg)
Maybe ground out grooves in the back on both sides and notches on the edges and wrap it with sinew.
Looks good Mike. I am going to do a few of these, but I'm gonna leave a tang at the back to attatch to the shaft. I think glue and sinew or artificail sinew? What are the dimensions?
1" wide and 3" long. I think leaving a tang at the back like you mentioned would be a great idea Ryan (thanks for the idea). I just need to lay it out a little differently, but that would be a great way to help attach it, plus give a little more weight up front.
Not a bad idea either Tim. I think I will do it your way with this one, and Ryans from here on out.
Nice one Mike, weight looks about perfect! If I had to guess, it looks like you've got about 11 more of them left in that blade. Do you think it will work out to an even dozen?
Thom
I think I will do a bit wider on mine, but it's a personal thing. I really like the profile though. Now I just need to go find a blade or some other metal :)
good job,now you got me thinging about trying my own.
Cool !! Can I send you all my old blades? :biglaugh:
How about slotting a field point and welding it to the head?
Here you go... slot your shaft, drill two holes, and use brass welding rod or steel for pins.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Drawings/Broadhead.gif)
Thank you Kirk. Would that be wood you were figurin for the shaft? If so, I'm just assuming it is a simple peened head on the brass, then once it spins true glue it to hold in place?
This is what I enjoy about this site. So many guys willing to share their knowledge.
Thanks for the thoughts and nice comments guys.
I like the idea of slotting the head and welding in a fieldpoint. Makes it a screw in!
Scott
I was thinking of modifying a field point also and welding it on. Looks really good Mike, like the weight too.
Mike...I'll start saving all my dull blades for you! :)
Seriously, nice work!!
Thanks Jared. We will see you and jr. At the wild game dinner in a few weeks if not before.
You know something.... if you took a glue on field point and put it on the shaft first.... then used a thin grinding wheel to slot the steel field tip that would be a lot stronger.
if you broke the shaft, you could always slot cut another shaft and insert it using hot melt glue.
I may have to try this myself. :biglaugh:
Dean Torges gave me a few of these heads. They have no tang. I slotted the shaft, epoxied it in and wrapped with .020" stainless safety wire. It looks kinda thin and prone to bend at the front of the slot; just some holes like the Abowyer trade heads might be better. It did its job without folding, tho.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/Arrows/PB280118.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/Hunts%202011/PB040357.jpg)
During lunch today, I decided to work smarter (not harder) and used the bandsaw. Looks like I now have a new habit I need to learn to kick. :biglaugh:
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/4a2cc6ae.jpg)
Thats great thinking . Lets see them on some arrows . And one with red on it. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Mike, the way I haft trade points is to cut a single bandsaw cut in the shaft to the depth you want. Then taper the end of the shaft like for a glue on point. Now fit the point to the slot using sandpaper. I like to use pitch glue for hafting because it is easy to adjust later with a little heat. You can use 2 part epoxy to hold the point then wrap behind the point with sinew(the best) or strong thread, for about 1".
If you drill two holes in the point along where the shaft will be you can use them to tie the point better to the shaft.
You can see the holes in these Abowyer heads and the sinew wrap.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/BWandsourwoodarrowsfor2011elkhunt003.jpg)
I thought this was a great idea, especially since I have lots of old blades. Had to give it a try and one made in less than an hour. welded feild points in for a screw on. Stick welding them isn't the answer but if I had a TIG machine I would never buy another broadhead. Thankis for the GREAT idea.
Here I am looking at old spoons to make heads out of and the whole time I have a pile of old saw blades staring me in the face :knothead:
Thanks for tuning on the light bulb.
I took the 6 I made today and after giving them a single bevel edge, I used SO's idea and used the search feature on here to teach myself how to file in a Tanto tip. Once mounted, these are going to Kauai with me and hopefully deflating a few goats.