So i will be getting a call from Jim at Black Creek Bows pretty soon to finalize my bow specs before he starts building it, so i had some questions to make sure im prepared when i get it.
#1. Aside from wax on the strings and wiping it down if it gets wet, is there any special maintanence for a 3pc T/D or anything you need to do to the bow occasionally? (like leather needs dressing every now and again, knives need oiled, etc ). This is my first bow i am buying and its a custom bow so i want to make sure it is super well taken care of from the begining.
#2. With a T/D, how do you keep the string so it doesnt twist and change the BH etc? Is that where the string keeper comes in, and if so how do they work?
#3. I am in AK and will be pursuing all AK has to offer critter wise so i want to make super i am sufficiently set up for it, I originally told him 55@28, but im debateing if i shouldnt jump up in weight to 60 or more, any thoughts on that????
#4. I want to shoot woodies, how do you know where to start spine wise to tune your bow?
Any other info you want to throw my way that could be helpful would be much appreciated too.
I am planning on hunting P.O.W. next Sept so i will be flinging arra's like crazy from the day i get the bow til i leave for the island :)
I am super excited as im sure most of you know the feeling. I dont have the disposable $ to play with lots of different bows at this point in my life with my growing family etc, so i am hoping to luck out and have a good connection with this bow, it will be a 62" Siren T/D Mercassar Ebony and Cocobola riser with Osage accent lines with antler tip overlays.
Happy holidays
Fin
sounds like you want to do alot an that is good.however I would start with one thing at a time you frist need to get the bow.55lbs is alot you may or may not know this. I dont know how new you are.if it were me I would go 50 lbs at the most 45 would be fine as well.as far as woodies go you should learn the bow frist. you dont want to hassle with the spine problems an in consistance of wood at frist learn your new bow.start off with carbon quick an easy to spine tough arrow to shoot,you will miss from time to time.woodies take a little time to figure out an that should be handled as another project woodies are great I shoot them my self.good luck ED
QuoteOriginally posted by MTArrowLauncher:
So i will be getting a call from Jim at Black Creek Bows pretty soon to finalize my bow specs before he starts building it, so i had some questions to make sure im prepared when i get it.
#1. Aside from wax on the strings and wiping it down if it gets wet, is there any special maintanence for a 3pc T/D or anything you need to do to the bow occasionally? (like leather needs dressing every now and again, knives need oiled, etc ). This is my first bow i am buying and its a custom bow so i want to make sure it is super well taken care of from the begining.
it's a hunting bow, it'll be fine with the care you mention, but don't be afraid to drag it through the bush, mud, heat, rain, snow and freezing cold :D
#2. With a T/D, how do you keep the string so it doesnt twist and change the BH etc? Is that where the string keeper comes in, and if so how do they work?
leave the bow strung all the time, there is NO NEED to unstring a modern stickbow unless it needs to be specially transported - in which case, just leave the string on the unbraced bow ... unless it's a t/d stick bow and there is a need to break it down, and in that case when the string is removed bring the two string loops together and hold 'em with a baggie twist tie so they don't untwist.
#3. I am in AK and will be pursuing all AK has to offer critter wise so i want to make super i am sufficiently set up for it, I originally told him 55@28, but im debateing if i shouldnt jump up in weight to 60 or more, any thoughts on that????
the honest truth is to shoot whatever holding weight you can consistently and accurately CONTROL at all times. imo, from what i've read and seen, 55# is quite capable of killing any critter in north america
#4. I want to shoot woodies, how do you know where to start spine wise to tune your bow?
do yerself a HUGE FAVOR and start with carbons - they are FAR AND AWAY more durable and actually easier to tune than woodies. DO build and shoot some woodies, but at least from the get-go, stay with carbon shafting.
Any other info you want to throw my way that could be helpful would be much appreciated too.
DON'T BE OVER BOWED. select and/or work at a bow holding weight that you can MASTER and control, and BE ACCURATE with DURING THE HUNT (not just in yer warm and comfy living room).
good luck! :wavey:
Rob x2- good luck on a great adventure!
Wow Rob!
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
Wow Rob!
what'd i do wrong? :campfire:
Rob,
Not a thing in my opinion.
I think Rob took care of your questions really well. When I break down my takedowns I carefully remove the string to keep it from unwinding at all, and pass the top loop through the bottom loop, then pass the the bottom loop back through the top loop. I agree with the carbon suggestion, I would think in the damp climate of coastal Alaska wood arrows would take a lot of maintenance to make sure they are straight at a crucial moment.
Thanks guys,
Plumber- I have been shooting my recurve for the better part of this year, and i shot when i was younger, so i have a little shooting under my belt.
Rob- It will definatly be a hunting bow, character scratches are just another good reminder of a hunt :) . As far as breaking down the T/D, i was thinking to fit into a pack when packing into somewhere, or to fit in a little plane better, or to break down for travel back home to MT.
As far as arrows, i will take your guys advice and start with carbons and get used to the bow and shoot it, then i will look into woodies after that.
As far as the weight, i know its a big jump up from my 43# curve, but this was kind of a one shot deal to get a hunting bow (black creek bows payment deal) and it had to be adequate poundage to hunt with since i cant afford to get several bows to step up with it, so i will practice a ton and make sure that i am ready before i hunt with it.
Thanks for everyones help :)
Fin
Get yourself some books - the real ones!! Something like Conrads beginners "The Traditional Bowhunters Handbook." You will find a wealth of information. It is a good start to a Traditional library.
QuoteOriginally posted by MTArrowLauncher:
....
As far as the weight, i know its a big jump up from my 43# curve, but this was kind of a one shot deal to get a hunting bow (black creek bows payment deal) and it had to be adequate poundage to hunt with since i cant afford to get several bows to step up with it, so i will practice a ton and make sure that i am ready before i hunt with it.too
Thanks for everyones help :)
Fin
43# to 55# is simply too large a jump, imo. go to 50# instead. if the bow is a 3pc, you can always get a heavier limbset.
ive seen lots of reccomendations from bowyers and other places that say if you are switching from a wheeled bow to trad, that you should drop 15# off of your compound weight. I shot 70# compund with no issues, so i figured 55# would be ok.
Is that not a legitimate comparison? (i am honestly asking, i dont ever want to come off as sarcastic or unappreciative :) )
QuoteOriginally posted by MTArrowLauncher:
ive seen lots of reccomendations from bowyers and other places that say if you are switching from a wheeled bow to trad, that you should drop 15# off of your compound weight. I shot 70# compund with no issues, so i figured 55# would be ok.
Is that not a legitimate comparison? (i am honestly asking, i dont ever want to come off as sarcastic or unappreciative :) )
this is one of many trad archery areas where without trying, yer mightily gambling. a 70# compound could easily be holding at 25# - think about that. click on the first link in my sig line ..............
I would try to borrow a 55# or 60# bow to see what it feels like. It would be bad to spend the $$ on a custom bow that you can't or don't want to shoot. #43 to 60# is a huge huge jump in weight. Your accuraccy can drop off quite a bit.
Another question is, do you want to just take a couple of shots each practice session or do you like to shoot 100 arrows a session. On the other side of the coin, it's just as bad to spend the $$ on a custom and it be too light that you want something heavier. Or like Rob said get two sets of limbs.
I would go two sets of limbs... one at 50 and one at 60 so you get a great progression, and if one give up, you have a back up. And to be honest, 50# is probably more than a nought, for everything!! as long as you stay well into your comfort range and that you shoot a heavy arrow... at the right place!!
enlighten an older fella please What is hunting P.O.W.?? It had a different meaning a few years back... :campfire:
43# to 55/60# is too much of a jump IMO. Go with the 50#der. Even a 43 to 50 is a pretty good jump. 50 will kill anything you'll shoot at and with a good 2 blade and fairly heavy arrow,good shot placement, no problem.. You can always get a heavier set of limbs later if you want to but 50's are good.. When you shoot alot of arrows like you intend to do, the 55/60 will tire you out too soon. You will even have to work at it for some time with the 50#der. Just my opinion..
P.O.W. is Prince of Whales Island.
Thanks guys, i am looking into maybe 2 sets of limbs. The legal minimum to be able to hunt everything in AK is 50#.
I live in a fly in village in W. AK, there is noone here that can let me shoot their bow, because i dont know that anyone in the village bowhunts.lol.
X 2 with what Rob said. A 55# bow with a fairly heavy arrow and just about any of the coc type heads (2,3, or 4 blade) will kill any game animal in North America.
Heavy arrows and a super sharp 2 blade is my intentions for a hunting set up.
thanks guys
arrowlauncher, If you are a big strapping fella take your pick, but if you are average sized look around on this site and you will find posts of folks who take elk with 40 ish # bows. Heavy tipped arrows with sharp 2 blade broadheads as you mentioned is the ticket. IMO start with the #50 you mentioned. It's a fact a bow of that weight with heavy sharp two blade broadheads will take any black bear or deer or elk on POW island. I lived on the Kenai and hunted Kodiak and #50 with that setup is perfect. Start there putting your energy into learning to shoot well, not struggling with too heavy a bow.
Thanks stujay, i dont know about strapping, but i, 6'1" and not light lol. Deer and blackies arent my concern in wanting a little more oomph, its the Moose , but you are right, a sharp BH behind the shoulder and it does not matter if its 50# or 55#.
thanks guys
If you are 6'1" your draw length may be 29" and if you order a bow #50@28" you could be drawing 52#. Another reason to stick with #50. Do you know your exact draw length?
i draw 28"
Heck yeah on hunting AK. I jumped from 43 (my first bow) to 50 without too many problems, but agree on 43 to 55 being a big jump without at least trying that weight.
Can't believe at 6'1" you only draw 28". I'm almost 28" at 5'9" (in shoes). Have you checked your draw lately? Mine has gotten longer as I've shot more and settled into a form. Also could be how you are measuring it.
Enjoy the new bow whatever you choose.
IDK, i went into the bow shop when i was living in Missoula, MT and they had a bow set up with a measuring arrow deal,and he said I was dead on 28". maybe longer, im not sure. If it is longer, than i guess the weight ive been pulling on my recurve is a little heavier than 43#.
Agree with others about over bowing themselves. HOWEVER........In my opinion and if it were me, and you already got a 43# recurve then I'd be completly comfortable with 50# especially since thats the state minimum.
My current weight is 53# and it feels really good. But I do have a 57# and my son has a 45#.
If your 6'1" I believe you would have around a 29-20" draw. I am 5'10" and draw 27.5"
I don;t know about that being a big jump I just tried a bow that was 10lbs heavier than my current setup and had no problem shooting and drawing back or rushing the shot. I guess it depends on quality of the new bow compared to the old. My example is pulling a Bob lee and then trying the Hitman bow which I found to be more smooth drawing then my Bob lee. So something to keep in mind.
I found for draw length the best measure is not say a arrow at the end of the bow but the old spread the wingspan on a flat wall and have some someone mark and then measure and divide by 2.5 to be more accurate myself.
thanks guys, the new bow is about a thousand times better quality than the old.lol