Few years back i started using carbon arrows.Prior to that i used woods.Problem is i pull a full 32 inch arrow.My woods always had to be footed to give me the legnth i needed.Would like to use woods out of the new longbow im building.Dont care much for the adapters with the the screw-in points as a option,but that maybe the way i have to go.Field piont use i can get by,problem is with broadheads.Anything you long draw guys are doing that i havnt thought of?Thanks ahead for your comments.Mike
sent you a pm
Woody weights? I am not a long draw guy but the woody weight add some length to the arrow and get the BH away. Might have to shoot a lighter BH due to the adaptor.
I looked at the woody weights,the lightest is 75grns.Again these are good options just tring to avoid alot of weight gain and broadhead change.Thanks
reparrows. They are made of wood nand you glue them on to the point end of Your short shafts to make the longer. Taper new point end, stain/paint/poly/ect: Then add point.
click here for contact info (http://www.angelfire.com/biz/Ironwood/woodbows.html)
Google Reparrow I haven't personally used it but it looks like it would work for you and there are some threads on it here
Mysticguido,Caleb mention those in hes pm.I tried those and they didnt seem to hold up for me.Getting them on straight was also a issue.
Maybe i need to revisit that reparrow idea,and try them out again.
Have you tried contacting some of the arrow vendors here and ask to have a special length made?
did you lay them on a flat area? what type of glue did you use? I used tite bond III. I lightly coated the shaft point, let dry til barely tacky. 2 drops in the reparrow and lightly push/twist on. Also make sure you don't push to much and it doesn't take much to do it. push them on then pull them off then back on again. This helps to get the glue all over.
wipe off extra glue, check for straightness by looking. lay flat let dry. roll shaft 1/4 tune every minute or so. just to make sure it's flat. I did 6 arrows in 30 minutes came out just as straight as if was a hole shaft of that length.
next day poly'ed them and the next day cut taper and added points.
Never had a problem getting reparrows on straight. There are still folks around who make footed shafts. Might be a custom order, and expensive, but they're still available. I think Bill Carlson had some 36-inch poplar shafts available a while back. Might check with him to see if he has any left.
The ones i have talked to say the raw shaft is 32"then when you taper it will end up 31".the advice has always been footing.Just a draw back to a long draw.
I thought about poplar,anyone have any experience with poplar?The good, the bad,and the ugly?
Have to find the link for a tool that cuts square stock to arrow shaft size..
I LIKE poplar . IF you buy 3/8 dowells they come 36 inches so length is not a problem . USUALLY heavy spines if yrou buying dowells and the spines range a LOT . I tend to buy about 6 to 10 every time I go into Lowes . Last vist they were 87 cents apiece . I take my time pick straight one with the best grain I can find wil little run-off. If ther is some run-off near one end IM fine since i do9nt usa n arrow over 29 inches so it give me a lot to play with . I then take them home spine them and put them in to the appropriate bundles I continue to do that until I have a supply of the ones I need for the spine I want .
Polpar is a bit stronger and a bit heavier than POC. I have had a lot of succes swith them over the years . IMHPO they make great arrows for the cost .
They ALL need a bit of straightening but after they are straight and sealed well, they tend to stay that way .
I taper mine down to 11/32 on the nock end which reduces the spine some, so that I end up with more usable shafts for the lower spine weights . If you shoot heavy spine arrows you will be in good stead right off .
Sounds like i need to give the Reparrow another try.What type of wood do you find works best if any?
I got some fairly recently and as I recall the wood choices have been reduced to Walnut or Walnut which is fine cause it is stromg and glues well. My experience has been that the glued joint is stronger than the rest of the shaft. Make your tapers well and use Titebond 3 as the glue and you will have an excellent joint. I only shoot wood and have been using Reparrows from the beginning.
Legends1 you have a pm
Try the Reparrows, they work great. I have a 32" draw and I make my wood arrows 33" long bop with the reparrows. I could go 34" easy if I wanted them that long.
I dont have an excessively long draw but I do shoot some heavy bows. Had to give up on pre-made wood shafts. The manufacturers just dont accommodate the big boys like you and me. I have tried making shafts from dowel rods but have had trouble getting them straight enough. You might have luck with a 3/8 poplar dowel though. Or a 7/16 if your shooting 60+. Good luck to ya. PM me if you have any questions.
Re the reparrows, I use a sanding disk and jig to get perfect tapers. That's probably why they work so well for me. Using a hand tapering tool can sometimes give you an uncentered taper, which will in turn throw off the reparrow.
Get an arrow fix and make your own footings. Preferably from black locust...
If you have a router table, you can make your own shafts for those footings....