The Mrs got me a GFA knife for my birthday and I am having a heck of a time with it rusting. I have had it only a month and its rusted all over. I dressed a deer with it, washed the knife and set it down to dry. By the next morning it has some rust orange spots on it so I
wiped it down again and no problem.
Today I hunted all day in the rain and by the time I got home the whole knife had rust all over it and the metal has oxidized and turned black.
What could be causing all of this? Ive had a ton of knives and never had this problem with any. Is there something I need to do to this knife to prevent this? If I cant get it to stop rusting it will be going on display or getting sold...no sense in having a knife that rusts in hours.
1095 steel does rust pretty easy.
Looking forward to other's comments.
Hmm, I bought my dad one for his birthday before fall deer season began. He has used it to dress a few deer, had it out in the rain for a while, with no problems. I'm not sure why yours would be doing this. Try rubbin it down with some 3 in 1 oil before you take to the woods with it next time.
Back before stainless was all the rage every knife would do that. The steel in your knife, generically called "carbon steel", is not stainless although many contend (including myself) that is preferable to stainless. I'd rather have that knife than any number of stainless variations that will not sharpen readily or obtain a keen edge (althouth there are some fine stainless blades out there).
All it takes is a little rub down with oil after use to keep it from rusting but it will definitely oxidize, tarnish, change color ... whatever over time and with use. That is natural and I personally like it better than a bright shiny blade.
You can also give it a light rub with petroleum jelly before carrying it in wet environments. However, be mindful to go LIGHTLY and on the blade only. The last thing you want is a slick knife.
You have a nice knife and a very thoughtful wife. Take care of both!
I just recieved one from Mrs. Asbell myself as a free gift cause of a shippment mess up and even though I haven't used it yet and I can't complain cause it was free with my order but it's High Carbon 1095 steelblade 57-59RC! i know absolutly nothing about metals other then it's not Aluminum! I noticed it has a somewhat waxy feel to it on the blade and that may help in keeping it from rusting so maybe you can put some bee's wax or something to keep it from rusting...Also maybe they will replace it with another like it...You can also ask on the knife makers/crafter forum about that kind of steel makeup and see what the guys there would suggest to do....Me I can't complain cause mine was Free :rolleyes:
Oiling should help a lot.
Cleaning it then not oiling it asks for rust.
If you're really disliking it you could blue it or brown it.
Just clean it, rub a bit of oil on it and use it....a bit of rust won't hurt anything.....you take care of it and it will last you a long time.
The knife is a high carbon steel which rusts quickly when not cared for properly. The finish on your knife is one I use on many of my field knives. That finish tends to form rust quickly. You need to clean the knife after use and either lightly oil it, or coat it with Renaisannce Wax. RW is what many knife smiths use to protect all the high carbon blades they forge and use. The high carbon steel will acquire a dark patina over time.
Stainless steel knives in general do not hold an edge well. If you buy one that holds an edge like a high carbon blade you will pay 4 to 5 times what you paid for the GFA knife. With a little extra effort it will last you a lifetime.
Use some clove oil on it after cleaning and drying. Was used to preserve the japanese samurai swords for a long long time, which are garantied to be NOT STAINLESS.
Yup, most high carbon steel blades need to be oiled regulary to protect them from rust. The upside is high carbon blades like 1095 are easier to sharpen and hold an edge better than most stainless steels.
One thing I would like to ad about the Asbell knives...They are really super sharp and priced very under cost for a hand forged knife and I have to say the Asbell's really try to make us here on the Gang Very Happy with our orders.....I was having much trouble with my order showing up after it was shipped and not sure what happened at the post office but when I opened my box there lay a G.F.A. knife and sheath as a token of appreciation ...It really made my day when I saw the knife and it shows me that Mrs. Teresa is a true "Queen" and wants us all to be happy little boys! :thumbsup:
KEEFER...That is so cool.
Wonder how I could get them to mess up my next order..lol
I use Ballistol on anything I want to keep rust free...PR
The best product I have found for preventing rust is Marine Tuf Cloth by Sentry Solutions.
I have a few high carbon knives and I have done the following to them to keep them from rusting.
You need to put a petina on your blade. Take your knife and clean all of the oil off of the blade. Now put regular old mustard on the blade and let it set for a few hours. Now just rinse the mustard off of the blade and oil it. The acid from the mustard will put a petina on the blade that will help retard rusting. You will still need to oil the blade afterward but it will help keep it from rusting. John
There is a product called Fastex(bullet coating) you have to heat the metal to 140 degrees then dip the knife in for a few minutes. It will stop rust,in fact the stuff is pretty amazing it would work great too for broadheads. It was all the rage about 10 years ago when I shot the benchrest circuit..
John Kelly,
Not sure how the mess up happened but it was a Happy ending and Mrs.Teresa is super kind...Now John Gerrald if I put mustard on my knife I might as well make me a "sammich" to eat! Thanks for the petina advise and I'll make sure I use plenty of Mustard! :biglaugh:
It might sound funny, but the mustard will do just that. It's sort of like browning a gun barrel. It is actually a controlled "rust" that will slow any bad rusting down and keep it managable. In my opinion, carbon steel, rust or not, holds a more crisp, durable, and easier to sharpen edge. A knife is no different than any other pieces of equipment. They have to be maintained too. By the way, Ballistol is good stuff.
Is there a better kind of mustard than others?? I like dijon...lol
That is probably why the old Opinel french knifes are never rusted...they like there mustard!
I don't want a knife if it wont rust. Carbon Steel all the way.
God Bless,
Nathan
It's the vinegar in the mustard that does it, so clean your blade with alcohol to remove oil, then soak the blade (not the handle) in a jar of vinegar for a while, an hour or two probably. Blade will darken, turn dark grey.
After this happens, dry it till it's smooth to the touch, put a light film of oil on it, and sharpen. Good to go. Keep using the knife. Don't leave it wet.
All my knives are carbon steel, I live on the gulf coast and don't have much problem with rust. If you use a carbon steel knife every day, it will develop a patina on it's own, but it takes a while. If small rust spots show up, just clean them off. If you don't use it every day, just wipe it down where it's dry and light film of any kind of oil. Doesn't take much oil. Just wiping with a slightly oily rag is enough.
Great thread, thanx for sharing.
I like them that way too. Do what the others said about preventing rust and you should be o.k. to go... and you'll enjoy getting it razor sharp.
Heck, it matches the bows we carry... they're not those sissy city slicker chrome knives... they're traditional steel bushman's knives! LOL!
Non-stick spray (PAM) works ok also. You have to use a knife every once in a while though if you use the spray or it will get sticky.
Carbon Steel will rust. Always has. Always will unless you take steps to protect it.
I use Butcher Block conditioner on all blades/handles that go out of the shop. It works great, food grade and all!
I dont think Jedimaster left a thing out I wouldn't have said. I wish I had one, my son-in law loves his.I pick on him about wearing it to church but the two are inseperable.Hope it works out that way with my girl!!
I use Fiebing's Mink Oil paste on my personal carbon blades and also on all of the knives that I ship out. It's the stuff made for waterproofing boots. The heavy paste stays on the blade better and last longer than oil.
One more thing worth mentioning,never leave a knife in a damp or wet sheath. Also blood is highly corrosive,wash well after skinning dry and put a light coat of Vasoline on the blade. I'm also in the company of the "if it wont rust,I dont want it" crowd.
Actually sometimes rust is pretty cool! This one was purposely rusted with Laural Mountain browning solution to make a newly forged blade look like it was excavated up from the Green Mountain Rondevu site :) All the above treatments will help control rust. I lightly cover my blades with Mothers car wax when not used...but a little rust on a high carbon blade just adds character. tippit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/PrimativeBoneHandleBlade006.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/PrimativeBoneHandleBlade008.jpg)
I use mineral oil on all my knives. It's especially good for knives used in food preparation where you wouldn't want to eat 3n1 or wd40.
Most pocket knife collectors will recomend mineral oil.
Agree with developing a patina on carbon blades. I've found over the years that it will develop naturally such as the rust you have described. Rather than remove it, I polish it lightly with very fine steel wool then oil it to stop the rust action. This patina will build with each use over time. All of my carbon blades have this grey patina and no longer rust unless allowed to stay wet.
Yep get the patina and it will be fine. I hate stainless it is a bugger to get shaving sharp as it will "gaule". Carbon blades are all I use or will buy.
QuoteOriginally posted by GMASIUK:
I use mineral oil on all my knives. It's especially good for knives used in food preparation where you wouldn't want to eat 3n1 or wd40.
Most pocket knife collectors will recomend mineral oil.
That is a good point and here's another tip:
I always carry a carbon steel Case pocketknife, and on rare occasions I get wet, or I'm out in the woods and fall in a river or something, and my knife stays wet for a long time in my pocket, etc.
When this happens, I fill a small bowl or jar with mineral oil (the laxative mineral oil you get cheap from the drugstore) and drop the knife in, and let it stay under for a few days or even a week while I carry another pocketknife.
When you take it out let it drain a few days and then wipe down good.
My carry knives have bone handles, and soaking in mineral oil is good for any knife that has stag or bone handles.
All good tips, yes, carbon is the reason.
But, don't overlook the sheath, if used! Storage can trap moisture, and cause more harm than protection. If leather sheath is used, try putting something like Motana Pitch blend, inside.
Also, using a sharpie, like on my exposed broadhead edges, or a dye can help, too.
Oxidation will effect all exposed surfaces, even stainless.
Buy and use some good ol' Plum Brown, and then clean/oil the blade after use. Problem solved.
Regular exposure to deer, turkey, squirrel fat usually does the trick. :D
Rob
I make and use carbon knives. They all will rust. My advice is to rub a small dab of oil on the blade after each use. If you do this your knife should remain rust free.
Yeah, the patina is good!
We have a few knives from my wife's Grandmother, one paticular, a Forgecraft..hi-carbon! this knife is probably over 50 years, young! Oh and what an edge it takes!
It is stained from tip to tang! Just like a fine seasoning on a cast iron skillet! :bigsmyl:
What has been discussed is called "forcing" a patina. And folks are correct its the vinegar/acid in the mustard that works the magic. Cheap ole yellow mustard works fine. The mustard seed itself simply acts to keep the vinegar from evaporating too fast before enough oxidation takes place.
You can get a little creative with it was well. I forced a patina on one of my knives by crumpling up a wad of plastic kitchen wrap (Saran Wrap), dipping the wad of wrap in the mustard and dabbing this on the blade. Made a cool pattern and turned the bright steel to a dull gray with a neat pattern. Of course you could use a brush and make tiger stripes or any other pattern you can imagine. If you just use plain vinegar just dampen some paper towels. Wrap the blade with the damp paper towels and check on it every half hour or so until you get the patina you are looking for.
Like has been said all carbon knives will rust
I still greatly prefer carbon over stainless knives
I hunted all day in this rain with a knife forged of W2 I tried to keep it dry best as I could and no problems my rain gear hangs over my knife and I use a product called tuff glide as a rat preventive by Sentry Solutions. I have used this product on guns and knives from Asia to Alaska and I have been very pleased
Don't store knife in leather sheath
The maintenance carbon requires is well worth it
I wipe my 1095 blades frequently with olive oil. Baricade will work, but who wants to slice a pepperoni and taste Baricade?
I've used Vaseline on my dive knives in the service and out. A thin layer keeps them sharp and rust free.
I like the sound of the mustard patina, that is pretty cool!
As as has been mentioned, lots of carbon knife fans intentionally put a patina on the blade to protect it from rust. Googling something like 'forced patina' should get you in the right spot - I know the topic comes up frequently on Blade Forums and so forth.
If your carbon knife gets some rust on it, hit it with steel wool and get that patina going. Keep your tools in good shape and they will serve you for a long time.
Ive not had any issues with mine, Ive had it for 4-5 years.
No rust yet.
I take care to keep a light film of protective oil on all my knives.
FYI
QuoteOriginally posted by Fish Finder:
The Mrs got me a GFA knife for my birthday and I am having a heck of a time with it rusting. ...
as mentioned countless times already by other posters, you do not have a problem, you have a really Really REALLY good knife. i've used my gfa frontier skinner more than a few times over the years and it's my go-to do-it-all knife these dayze. the quality and value (not to mention the great looks!) of gfa knives is unsurpassed, imo.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/gfaskinner.jpg)
Are these the same knives that he was selling stamped DMP which I think stands for David Palmer. I bought one from him at Compton years ago and they all look exactly the same, almost like they were stamped out. Is this the case or are they individually hand made?
I really like the one I have. I don't carry it but I use it daily down in my work shop. It's my go to knife down there. I think I only paid $15.00 for it at the time. It is a great buy for the money. By the way, mind has never rusted.
I suspect the knives are made by Dean Oliver of Oregon. They are identical in every way to his work except for the actual blade shapes, which would have been designed by Asbell.
All Dean's knives are completely hand made in his shop.
Guy
I have a few Asbell knives, and never have a rust issue. I wipe all my knives down with whatever oil is handy....3 in 1, Hoppes, whatever.
All carbon steel will get rust spots, especially if you leave blood or sweat on them.
They appear to be a stock removal blades. Forged blades generally cost more due to the time spent on forging them. Lots of knife makers have a line of stock removal blades they can sell at a better price point. Good knives at a great price is the result.
I enjoy this knife and think it will make the long haul with me. It does not hold an edge as good as some of my others but touches up very quickly and gets very sharp. And it looks great.
I put some petina on it today with the mustard and I may do another round of it. I enjoy the way it is looking. I just need to get a new sheath for it from somewhere and I'll be all set to go.
Good old carbon knives develope a great patina naturally and if taken care of will not rust further.
Here is an old butcher knife second from left with a natural patina. This knife has been used by me for the last 31 years and I bought it used and is used in general camp chores.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/reddogge/Hunting/knives2.jpg)
This little 56 year old Western has natural patina.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/reddogge/Hunting/IMG_0696.jpg)
Here is after roughly an hour with mustard. I just put another coat on to get some real rich marks.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f137/swankeer/photo-2.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f137/swankeer/7da15162.jpg)