Been using carbons for the past few years, and was considering going back to wood. Is gasket laquor still the way to go, or has something new hit the market that I am not aware of?
gasket lacquer is easy, quick, has practically no fumes and super easy clean-up.
Gasket Lacquer and the Eco Dipper is easy as it gets, I just found an arrow that sat out in the woods for 6 months, found it while out shooting the other day, picked it up and started shooting it with no problems!
I use Pro-Fin from Daily's. Durable hard finish.
I've been using Minwax wipe-on polyurethane with excellent results...
GL is inferior (for "fair-weather" archers), no way if you want the most marginal moisture protection. I've seen this stuff crack and feather fall off on one trip when my partner used the stuff. Maybe it is good for pencils....
If you want truly waterPROOF arrows use Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, A Spar varnish, or Daly's ProFin.
Agreed Steve. GL is no good for me either. I made many dozen shafts before I decided it was J-U-N-K. It wasnt a hasty decision on my part.I wipe on 4-5 coats on Tung oil now, be it boo or wood shafts.
Dalys, Dalys, and Dalys..... Profin formula IMHO and because snag taught me....
I dip mine in Parks Wood Floor Finish. It's water based, and not only give excellent protection, it makes the arrows look like glass. For hunting, just steel wool them and your good to go. Duco sticks awesome to it (almost looks like it melts right in), but superglue turns white where it is applied. So I just quit using super glue.
Wait 24 hrs between coats and steel wool between coats. You will be happy with the results.
When using minwax or tung oil, what feather glue works best? Are you dipping the arrows or applying with a brush/rag?
I've used massey's epoxy finish, works well, very durable. Wipe on poly is super easy and ready to use. May have to try this Daly's stuff though, wonder if I get a famiy discount?
I use Tru-oil for most of my arrows or pine pitch varnish for my primitive arrows. When I made cedars I would dip in water based poly.
Duco with solvent based like Helmsman, et al.
I soak in Watco Danish Oil until they won't take any more. I made a soaking tube out of 3" PVC pipe.
Adds as much as 40 grains to the shaft. Works on any wood and duco adheres to it. It's not a surface finish so it won't crack or flake and can't be breached with scratches or dents.
Steve nailed it. GL has let me down in TN gully washers... Small wonder Alaska hunting proved too much for GL.
Don't waste your money! Fast and easy ain't what you're looking for in this biz.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear:
Steve nailed it. GL has let me down in TN gully washers... Small wonder Alaska hunting proved too much for GL.
Don't waste your money! Fast and easy ain't what you're looking for in this biz.
Well fast and easy works fine for me in Northern Michigan, Northern Wisconsin and the past 2 years in ND..... and I shoot out doors year round... NEVER had cracking or "water damage" using GL....just sayin! :goldtooth:
Daly's Pro Fin.
I also have to wonder about the cracking peeling thing. I've seen other folks say the same thing but I have used it and some of those arrows have been around for years and I've never seen that happen. I too have found lost arrows that were gasket lacquered and no cracking or peeling.
I have found that if you let GL get too thick it will do that craking thing. Thinned it works great.
Bohning fletch tape is compatible with all finishes...
Damn, I'm surprised to learn I live in a "fair weather" area. I always thought it was hot and humid here except for when it's cold and humid. Guess I need to look into a sealing method that's slower and more difficult. Thanks for the adult supervision guys!
Yeah you bluebird weather GL-lovers are probably watching football instead of hunting half the time!
Waterproof just takes a bit longer to dry because of the oils, its not more difficult beyond dry time. I use a gasket too....GU = Gasket Urethane!
Everywhere is fair weather compared to SE/SC Alaska especially when you are out in it for days and days on end.
; ^ )
minwax low luster wood finish. i dip em. you can get it at most hardware stores
Hey Steve, do you use the gasket system with your urethane?
QuoteOriginally posted by wooddamon1:
I've been using Minwax wipe-on polyurethane with excellent results...
Ditto.
The Pro Fin works great. You can dip your shafts and it sheets off nicely without having to use the gasket method. That way you have more material per coat also. I just wish it dried and setup quicker...but somethings are worth waiting for!
I use 4 coats of wipe-on poly, and fletch with a tiny amount of super glue. Seals good, feathers stick good, dries quick, cheap, and easy to touch up for refletching. Works for me and I'm in Bama. Hot and humid, or cold and humid :D :thumbsup:
Pro Fin. Great stuff.
I use and will continue to use GL, I have had good luck with it and I aint no daisy when it comes to hunting in the rain. A lot of times operator error plays a role in problems :bigsmyl:
I've gone from TruOil to G/L to MinWax Wipe on..
BTW G/L works just fine as long as you keep it thinned out... let it get a little thick and it'll crack..
So far MinWax Wipe on Poly is holding its own...
I've been using the blue clear from three rivers for 25 years and haven't had any problems.I can dip em three times in a day ( as long as it's not raining) which not only has great protection, but also adds weight.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jim Wright:
Damn, I'm surprised to learn I live in a "fair weather" area. I always thought it was hot and humid here except for when it's cold and humid. Guess I need to look into a sealing method that's slower and more difficult. Thanks for the adult supervision guys!
Jim,
When does it actually get cold? ;)
The following are the average monthly temperatures in Louisiana:
MONTH: High / Low
JAN: 61 / 41
FEB: 65 / 44
MARCH: 71 / 50
APRIL: 79 / 57
MAY: 85 / 64
JUNE: 90 / 70
JULY: 91 / 73
AUG: 91 / 72
SEP: 87 / 68
OCT: 80 / 57
NOV: 70 / 48
DEC: 64 / 43
Brian, in my lifetime I have seen 7 degrees and nine degrees but those are absolute extremes. To your point, if anyone thinks you wont get cold here immobile on a stand with temperatures 20-40 degrees which it gets to regularly during hunting season, 80 to 90% humidity and wind just come try it. Back to the real point of the thread Gasket Lacquer is easy, quick, has practically no fumes and super easy clean-up and even though it is contrary to the opinion of some genuine experts from places with far more manly climates than I endure here, it works!
QuoteOriginally posted by Trad-Man:
QuoteOriginally posted by Jim Wright:
Damn, I'm surprised to learn I live in a "fair weather" area. I always thought it was hot and humid here except for when it's cold and humid. Guess I need to look into a sealing method that's slower and more difficult. Thanks for the adult supervision guys!
Jim,
When does it actually get cold? ;)
The following are the average monthly temperatures in Louisiana:
MONTH: High / Low
JAN: 61 / 41
FEB: 65 / 44
MARCH: 71 / 50
APRIL: 79 / 57
MAY: 85 / 64
JUNE: 90 / 70
JULY: 91 / 73
AUG: 91 / 72
SEP: 87 / 68
OCT: 80 / 57
NOV: 70 / 48
DEC: 64 / 43 [/b]
While it doesn't get nearly as cold in LA as it does up north, it can and often does reach the low teens.. However the humidity is often in the high 80% - 90% range.. for instance today it is 39* with 87% humidity and a 20mph sustained north wind.. dew point is 36*... it isn't really raining but everything is soaking wet... and we've managed to accumulate nearly an 1 1/2 in the rain gage.. About the same as Chicago today... :D
There are many places that I rather be in the winter than central or northern Louisiana/Texas it's colder there at 35* than it is in Colorado at 0*.... and don't forget our summers where the temperatures reach a 105* with the same humidity.. Trust me it's harsh weather for wooden arrows..