I know this is really splitting hairs so to speak but after filing a head to finish on a diamond steel do you push the head away,pull toward you or use the steel the same stroke as the file? Does it really matter? Thanks. BILL
Hi I generally use a rotational motion on a ceramic stick or diamond stone, very lightly.
BF1,
I've seen about as many demos where people push versus pull on the file step, so I doubt it's critical. I can get good results with either. I go to a DMT medium diamond stone and then a hard Black Arkansas stone. I finish with Lansky ultra-fine stones (so you just think you're anal). Like Joe, for the final step I use a circular motion. I think the narrow width of these stones (or ceramic/steel rods) is the trick for getting these heads scary sharp by working down in the slightly concave mid-sections of the blades, that some of the older WW heads were prone to have. Seems the tips and back edges got most of the sharpening from "flat" honing.
All my sharpening with 3blades is done back of the blades to front....push the file back to front, pull the on jewel stick and then leather strop.
I don't think it matters and have done it all ways, just find a way that is consistent. Forward or backward is just for simply counting strokes.
Did some testing tonight it seems that the heads sharpened back to front "catch" your nail much easier when pushed than the other heads??
That's because you are pushing up a burr towards the front. Virtually all sharpening is based on removing material until you raise a burr and then moving that burr side to side until it breaks off. Then you hone what's left. I sharpen beauty scissors, knives, and tools for a living, and it's largely the same with most any tool.
Some sharpening devices and techniques will fool people because that burr cuts on the forward stroke(in your example). But, it's a weak edge and will break off as it hits something hard.
We kid ourselves if we think that something that "catches on you nail" is the best cutting tool. I will not argue that a file sharpened edge is better or worse than a glass-smooth cutting edge(have an opinion, but mixed results from 35+ years of bowhunting!). For the most part, both those methods have proven themselves to me. What doesn't work is assuming that a burr represents a super sharp cutting edge. It does not. If you can feel a definite burr on one side or the other, you are not done sharpening!
Tom, thanks for the info. Hope you got the Centaur heads. One other observation is that to me a head "feels" more sharp without being honed on leather but will pop hair much more easily after being strop on the leather. BILL
http://www.3riversarchery.com/3rdemos9.asp#1
Have a look here as this shows a great way to sharpen all 3 blade heads.
I would be stropping sideways on one edge -alternating one side then the other to remove the burr as stated above- in other words pulling it toward you one one side then flip and push away on same edge/other side. As soon as the burr rolls off/ is removed you could finish by stropping it on some flat smooth leather or cardboard like that used to make a shoebox use the inside not the glossy side
Even if you sharpen two blades at once I would do the final work one blade at a time
Dale Karch sure makes it look easy. Are 3 blades easier to sharpen than 2 blades? Holding flat on a file/stone removes the angle concerns of the 2 blade. Although my KME also helps with that.
I'll be getting some 3 blades to try. The 3R video is very good.
QuoteOriginally posted by oldbohntr:
That's because you are pushing up a burr towards the front. Virtually all sharpening is based on removing material until you raise a burr and then moving that burr side to side until it breaks off. Then you hone what's left. I sharpen beauty scissors, knives, and tools for a living, and it's largely the same with most any tool.
Some sharpening devices and techniques will fool people because that burr cuts on the forward stroke(in your example). But, it's a weak edge and will break off as it hits something hard.
We kid ourselves if we think that something that "catches on you nail" is the best cutting tool. I will not argue that a file sharpened edge is better or worse than a glass-smooth cutting edge(have an opinion, but mixed results from 35+ years of bowhunting!). For the most part, both those methods have proven themselves to me. What doesn't work is assuming that a burr represents a super sharp cutting edge. It does not. If you can feel a definite burr on one side or the other, you are not done sharpening!
Very wise words. :thumbsup: The most important aspect of sharpening anything is truly understanding the process.
Ron
I should probably clarify that my comments were based on using a large file(14"+), wider than the width of two blades. This is the method I think is easiest to learn because it removes the tendency some have to "wrist rock" with a smaller file and get frustrated. The large file is usually clamped and the broadhead moved parallel to its length. I've seen the head pushed (point first) and pulled (point trailing) into the teeth with good results. If your using a smaller file go with Guru's advice. Filing across two blades point to back is a good way to get cut!
I pull while sharpening my VPA heads. However I use sandpaper instead of a steel and cardboard as well like Ray.
Good info, but I don't think I woulda used anal, sharpening and 3 blade heads in my title.
:scared: :biglaugh:
QuoteOriginally posted by Tom Leemans:
Good info, but I don't think I woulda used anal, sharpening and 3 blade heads in my title.
:scared: :biglaugh:
x2- Agree, the words anal and sharpening just do not belong together.
Sharpening your broadheads anally sounds a bit dangerous.
Sorry...couldn't resist.
ouch...i think i would switch hunting to a gun if the only way i could get my broadheads sharp was anally! That's deication for sure.