Hey guys does anyone know where I can buy a Bench Grinder Jig to taper my shafts?Aloha Ron
I have seen a number of jigs that fit the disc table on a belt/disc sander but none that fit a bench grinder.
Three Rivers sells a jig that mounts on a disc sander table.
If you don't have a disk sander but have a table saw you can use a old dull blade with a peel and stick round sanding disk stuck to the side of the blade.
A good small disk sander/with your own home-made guides are a lot cheaper than any of the commercial sanders, and by my experience, do a better job.
I use this one
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Arrow+Building+Tools+Taper++Guide+Block_c52_s8_p109_i8044_product.html
QuoteOriginally posted by NoCams:
If you don't have a disk sander but have a table saw you can use a old dull blade with a peel and stick round sanding disk stuck to the side of the blade.
That just sounds scary! I would forget and get a little too close to those old dull teeth and.... Poof! There goes the string fingers :knothead: :knothead: :knothead:
Does anyone have a source for a small disc sander that would be used almost totally for grinding arrow shafts?
Thankx, Murray
QuoteOriginally posted by NoCams:
If you don't have a disk sander but have a table saw you can use a old dull blade with a peel and stick round sanding disk stuck to the side of the blade.
Great idea, whats the taper degrees for the point and the nock?
I did a search, DUH, to answer my own question this is what I found. The point taper is 5 degrees and the nock taper is 11 degrees.
Harbor freight has a cheap belt disc sander that would fill the bill for nock and point tapering.
You can make a simple jig to fit on the miter table like this one and cut more accurate tapers than any of the high dollar specialized taper tools. With routed slot designed taper jigs you can have some slop or movement when you feed the arrow into the sanding disc. With my design you are pushing the shaft into a tight corner as you feed it into the disc and there won't be any movement or slop.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Archery%20%20pics/arrowtaperjig-1.jpg)
I started out with routed vee infeed tables and like the above type much better.
You can add another low tech jig to the belt and taper shafts in a few seconds as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Archery%20%20pics/9inchtaperjigwithshaft.jpg)
Thanks, Eric. Your design looks like something even I can manage. And if not, I've got a great friend who is a machinist/tool maker.
I appreciate your time and effort.
Thankx, Murray
Thanks for the input guys i will be lookin for a small maybe 4" bench sander. Ron
If you make a taper jig like mine, be sure to put a piece of wood on the bottom that fits in the miter slot on the table. With this piece of wood installed you can remove your jig and always get it back in place, perfectly aligned and ready to use with no adjustment.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/taperjigmiterslot.jpg)