Just got my Savannah yesterday,,and today ,I already scarred it up ! I am mad..but I didn`t notice it until it was already damaged. Anyway,my friend was letting me shoot his Goldtip 35-55 Carbons out of it,being I don`t have arrows yet. Anyway,,take a look at the picture,,how did this happen? Also,the fletching was contacting my first finger of my left hand on alot of the shots. Anyone have any ideas about this?
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj316/scattergun2570/001-3.jpg)
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What is the draw weight of that bow?
Are the arrows the correct spine? If fletching is hitting your finger it could be a knock point issue,spine of the arrows(stiff or weak),brace height,or your release.By the wear on the strike plate im guessing the arrows are stiff, I could be wrong.
If it was me I would clean it off with paper towel and lighter fluid an add a little stain with a qtip.
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
What is the draw weight of that bow?
45lbs
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Are the arrows the correct spine? If fletching is hitting your finger it could be a knock point issue,spine of the arrows(stiff or weak),brace height,or your release.By the wear on the strike plate im guessing the arrows are stiff, I could be wrong.
If it was me I would clean it off with paper towel and lighter fluid an add a little stain with a qtip.
I don`t know if 35-55`s are correct..he gave them to me cause the bow is a 45lber..So its right in the middle. I am very new to traditional,so I am in the dark.
Hmmmm.. 35/55's sound about close depending on how long they are cut and point weight.
Is it just the finish that came off or is that a chip in the wood?
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
Hmmmm.. 35/55's sound about close depending on how long they are cut and point weight.
Is it just the finish that came off or is that a chip in the wood?
No,,not chipped,,the finish just burned off from ,I guess fletching contact.
Is the brace height correct on the bow?Im not sure what it should be for that savanah. When you shot it was the bow quiet or did it have a twang to it?
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
Hmmmm.. 35/55's sound about close depending on how long they are cut and point weight.
Is it just the finish that came off or is that a chip in the wood?
They were 30" arrows with I believe 100gr tips
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Is the brace height correct on the bow?Im not sure what it should be for that savanah. When you shot it was the bow quiet or did it have a twang to it?
we adjusted brace height,while at the range..it was kinda noisy,but I had no silencers on the bow either. The brace height according to Martins site is 6.25-7in. we had it at 6 3/4".
What is your draw length?
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
What is your draw length?
28"
I would add more weight to the tips and check the brace again. Are they vanes(plastic) or feather fletching on the arrows? Vanes are not as forgiving when the contact the strike plate in my experiance.
and save yourself time you dont have to hit the quote tab just reply.
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
I would add more weight to the tips and check the brace again. Are they vanes(plastic) or feather fletching on the arrows? Vanes are not as forgiving when the contact the strike plate in my experiance.
They were feathers.. but I have no idea if the arrows I was shooting are correct for the bow..what would you go with? Let`s say in aluminums.
I am a wood only shooter others will help you with the alum. in wood I would shoot 55-60# with 125gr heads.
They were feathers,,,but what arrow lets say in aluminum would you think is correct for me?
My Savannah loved a brace height of 7 5/8. It always had a slight thump but nothing too bad.
A little finish coming off just adds a little character. Clear coat of nail polish should touch it up.
I agree with lpcjon2, if there are plastic vanes on it, the arrows will fly horrible.
2016's is a good place to start. Gamegetter 500's are pretty inexpensive. :thumbsup:
My savannah likes cock feather in (LW helical) allows more clearance for me as well. Your feather is just rubbing the edge. You just need to tune your stuff? My brace is at 6.5"? Increasing brace over 7 will slow it down quite a bit.
7 5/8 ? Wouldn`t that just kill the speed of the arrow?
Speed doesnt always matter aim and the arrow weight and head are what matters in the shot. If your bow shoots quieter and smoother with a higher brace then its a better tuned weapon.
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Speed doesnt always matter aim and the arrow weight and head are what matters in the shot.
But,when you hunt with the bow,don`t you want some speed?
I never argue with the bow, LOL! I tried all the ranges from 6 3/4 up to 7 3/4.
You can rob performance by having too low a brace just as having too high of one. Find the balance by starting low. Twist up the brace till you get a quiet shot and good speed.
Your ears will tell you. I will generally end up with a slight thump and decent speed. Try twisting your string twice, then shooting. It's a pain in the butt, but worth the effort.
You can be one twist away from perfect mix of silence and speed, just be patient. :thumbsup:
I have a 70# Hill and its not fast but when the arrow hits it will dam near knock you over. Trad is a bit different than the wheels( light and fast)with trad your shots are closer and your aim is most important and mass arrow weight.
Does it matter which end of the string you add or remove twist from?
QuoteOriginally posted by Scattergun2570:
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Speed doesnt always matter aim and the arrow weight and head are what matters in the shot.
But,when you hunt with the bow,don`t you want some speed? [/b]
All things "speed" go out the window with traditional gear. What you want is quiet and hard hitting. Since you are using a weapon that shoots 1/2 the speed of todays compounds, you have to rely on stealth and kinetic energy to do the job.
No , do you have a knock point on the string yet? that is as important as any part, if not you need one so the arrow always is set at the same point.
I twist from the bottom limb. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
No , do you have a knock point on the string yet? that is as important as any part, if not you need one so the arrow always is set at the same point.
The guy I bought it from has a brass nock on the string yes..
If you can get that off without tearing the string, after you get the brace we can get you to add a knock point that will be correct for you and you will be on your way to a well tuned bow. You will see and feel the difference after it is tuned correctly.
Yeah,it came with a nock on the string.
Does the arrow teater up and down on the way to the target?
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
Does the arrow teater up and down on the way to the target?
Yeah I did notice it doesn`t fly nice and straight,the back end moves around more that it should I believe.
Work on the brace and when you knock the arrow look to see that it is close to 90 degrees from arrow to string(at the knock of the arrow, some like it high and some dont it depends on arrow flight) and if not adjust the arrow and add a piece of tape till you get new nock.
Are you using a tab or glove, and 3 under(3 fingers under arrow) of split finger(arrow between pointer and middle finger)?If you dont have one get one, It will give you a smoother release.
QuoteOriginally posted by lpcjon2:
Work on the brace and when you knock the arrow look to see that it is close to 90 degrees from arrow to string(at the knock of the arrow, some like it high and some dont it depends on arrow flight) and if not adjust the arrow and add a piece of tape till you get new nock.
Are you using a tab or glove, and 3 under(3 fingers under arrow) of split finger(arrow between pointer and middle finger)?If you dont have one get one, It will give you a smoother release.
I like the glove,hate tabs. I have been shooting split finger method.
gt 35-55 with 150 gr tip cock feather in you should be good to go that is based on a 28 inch draw.as for the skuff it happens it just happen to you too soon good luck
Try raising the nock on the string so you are 1/4 inch above level of the shelf. I like my nock a little higher than the standard 1/8 inch above rule.
Will a "Fastflite" string increase or decrease vibration/handshock, or have no effect?
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
My Savannah loved a brace height of 7 5/8. It always had a slight thump but nothing too bad.
A little finish coming off just adds a little character. Clear coat of nail polish should touch it up.
My 50# Savannah loved the BH low...around 6-5/8" if I remember correctly; shot the heck out of that bow for 2+ years! I can still pick that bow up and about 6 arrows into the outing they're hitting exactly what I'm looking. Really need to get that bow back out and use it now more than ever!
My guess is the arrows are too stiff and the fletch is not clearing the riser...they're just going left and not developing the correct parallax (sp?) to "wrap" around the riser and fly down range.
For the record I shoot 30.5" Beman MFX 500's out of mine with the standard adaptors and 145 grain points...my draw is 29.5" and the bow has been scaled at 52# at my draw.
I agree with the others...the finish flaws are just character!
Josh
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
Try raising the nock on the string so you are 1/4 inch above level of the shelf. I like my nock a little higher than the standard 1/8 inch above rule.
I believe mine also likes the nock a touch higher.
I will take the measurements when I get a chance and post.
Josh
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
I twist from the bottom limb. :thumbsup:
In general, most archers would twist from the top, thinking that tiller may be slightly affected and a more positive upper tiller is better than lower. Not sure this would even apply to traditional equipment. I'm sure the string build and prestretch would come into play if a person was going to get that anal about things.