These arrows are 80-85 Douglas Fir's with 125 grain tips. They are tuned for my 62@28 Silvertip. The other day I was out shooting a 71@28 Silvertip and the first shot the arrow flew really funky (as I had expected), the second shot the arrow didn't even hit the target. It landed 10 feet short and I was only shooting from 15 yards. I walk up to the arrow and find it was split in half at the nock. What caused this? I don't recall ever hitting that arrow with another one, but its a possibility. I normally shoot with B50 strings and this string was an endless loop and the nock fit tighter. If you would like anymore info please let me know. I'm scared to shoot wood from this bow now. Lucky for me I had a couple carbons laying around so I can still shoot the heavier Silvertip. Thanks in advance for your help!
(http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k567/snakebit40/IMAG0155.jpg)
(http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k567/snakebit40/IMAG0152.jpg)
(http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k567/snakebit40/IMAG0151.jpg)
(http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k567/snakebit40/IMAG0154.jpg)
Looks to me like you hit it with another arrow at some point.
Is that the arrow Andrew split with my Silvertip in the back yard? :laughing:
You must be devastated busting up a perfectly good arrow! :dunno:
Please forgive if my eyesight is way off on this...but I got my handle trying to figure out grain orientation on tapered ash...
I remember how important it was to have the string grove of the nock perpendicular to the grain of the arrow... to avoid it splitting the shaft.
In that next to last picture, it "appears" that the split down the nock of the nock groove is in line with the grain of the split shaft.
That is probably insulting to even suggest, but it drove me nuts with run-out on Ash shafts to figure out which way to glue on the nock, I gave it up and welcomed the advent of carbon! :)
Hope you can find an answer so you return to confidence with shooting!
I've had that happen before. Thats why I make self nocks on all my arrows these days. Selfnocks are way more durable and reliable. IMO
I had this happen to me on 4 out of 12 arrows that I made. This did not help my confidence, as this was the first 12 Cedar arrows I ever tried to make several years ago.
They were POC woods arrows, and I made sure while constructing them that the grain orientation was perpendicular to the string. Had that covered.
The arrows split exactly like you show above. 3 of the 4, sheared off so quickly that it essentially dry fired my bow 3 times. These failures all occured on the same outing to our shooting club.
What I think happened, is that I used a highly "fumatic" fletching glue in conjuction with glueing the nock. The nock's glue bond to the woods shaft never faultered. It always split right down the middle, but stayed adhered to the shaft. I was dumb-founded at how this shaft could split down the middle like that, with the grain orientation correct in comparison with the string... Amazing! And SCARY!
The only determination I could make, was that the glue reacted negatively with the plastic nock, essentially breaking it down or weakening it. A change of glue (Kimsha Hot Melt) and I've never had it happen since.
Yep. Whenever I hear a "klack" when shooting I check the nocks. The price you pay for improved accuracy.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM2279.jpg)
But you are supposed to align the nock throat perpendicular to the grain and that will prevent a full split like that. The way yours are gives you minimal spine instead of maximizing it. You sure you're doing that right? Sure doesn't appear to be so from the images.
You've also got a lot of airspace at the bottom of the nock. Think "log splitter". Lengthen the nock taper and drip some Duco in there when gluing them on.
Jon,that's a powerful Silvertip, bag the wood and enjoy the many benefits of carbon arrows.
Mark
I agree with Doc Nock. Look's like the nock was put on the wrong way.
Iam with doc on this one. that shock will travel right down the grain.ka boom it will split everytime.can also be dangerous as well.
I make sure I put the nocks on perpendicular to the riser. It is a chance that I messed up on this one. Thanks guys!
Mark- I think I will stick with carbon on with this bow. It shoots awesome just like I had expected. I'll keep in touch with you.
Hard to get proper spine on a wood shaft unless the nock is perpendicular (or nearly so) to the grain..
agree with Doc and others,, nock out of alignment
Photo three looks as if we're seeing the edge of the grain and looks like proper alignment. My eyesight is not perfect but I believe the grain was properly aligned. Compare both sides of the split. They look like mirror grain patterns to me especially with the one distinct lighter growth ring.
Just me though. :dunno:
QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
Photo three looks as if we're seeing the edge of the grain and looks like proper alignment. My eyesight is not perfect but I believe the grain was properly aligned. Compare both sides of the split. They look like mirror grain patterns to me especially with the one distinct lighter growth ring.
Just me though. :dunno:
That's what I thought too.
To my eye it appeares nock alignment is proper. If that is the case, it could be any number of things - or a combination. Weak nock? From a defect or impact? A structural defect in the wood? Maybe on a bow of that weight it's truly intolerant of the dead space between the back of the shaft the back of the nock? I've not shot much in that weight range, hasn't seemed to be a problem with lighter bows but the energy has got to be greater here. Was the first arrow you shot damaged as well?