Thoughts, pro's and con's??
I just committed blasphemy and bought some carbons for 2.50 a piece from wally world. At 31 inches they shoot great but my draw is a tick under 28 inches. Go with it? :wavey:
Definitely go with it. The length of your arrow matters not as long as it's long enough and of the correct spine.
shorter gap...
I remember years ago, hearing that the longer your arrow, the more stable in flight. Not sure about how true it is.
The only issue I have with much longer than necessary arrows is that they can possibly cause some clearance concerns in some blinds.
I do not wish to be concerned with any additional possible interferance when the moment of truth arrives.
Note: Have also punched an extra hole or two in my blind with my long BH's that may have been averted with a shorter arrow.
I shoot wood, and i shoot em as short as I can. That way I can shoot a lower spine weight (the short length stiffens the shaft) which is usually a little lighter. Then, I can select a tougher wood, I prefer ash, and not have an absurdly heavy arrow. Now... all this is only important to me cause I only pull 44 pounds, and an 800 grain ash arrow is rather uninspiring at that draw weight. But I don't want to give up the toughness of the ash. :D But from my experience as long as the arrow is spined right for your setup, short or long, they should fly just as good either way. This is just my perspective on it :thumbsup:
I cut my arrows(wood or cane) to 30" for my 26" draw. I like the extra physical weight and have never had a problem shooting with 3" out past my bow.
Where were they made? There is a very cheaply made carbon shaft out there by the name of Bullseye, and I'm sure they are made in China, and they are JUNK. I bought them to do a little stump shooting, and ended up breaking 5 out of a dozen with in a couple of weeks. I have never broken any of my Goldtips, and only one of my Easton's. There's a reason these companies are number one in arrow shaft construction. Sometimes cheap isn't really cheap in the long run, and it can be dangerous.
What about the nocks and inserts, what if they break, can you buy replacements?
What is the spine or straightness tolerance? If it's not consistent it could throw your whole aiming structure out of whack trying to adjust to a new shaft. If it's not consistent your POI not going to be consistant.
What are you going to use them for? Would you feel comfortable using them in a State or National competition, against other competitors that where shooting top of the line Goldtips, Eastons, or Bemans?
How much did you pay for your bow? Would it make sense to buy a thousand dollar bow, and shoot the cheapest arrows you could find.
Are you going to be able to purchase these same arrows next year and the year after? You know how Wally world is, one day there in stock and the next they have been discontinued.
Are you fletching them yourself? If you are, that's a lot of work to be putting into a generic shaft, just to find out you have a pile of junk, or find out later you don't like a 31" arrow.
I have a 28.5 inch draw, and was playing with a heavier spined shaft then I'm used to, trying to get my point weight up to 300gr and foc, and by the time I was threw I had 30.5" shaft length. After shooting several hundred arrows, and comparing them to a shorter shaft with the lighter tip weight, I was more accurate with the shorter shaft. The norm is ¾ to 2" longer than your draw length and there's a reason for that.
Been there done that, I will take shafts that are built by cutting edge companies who If I have a question about one of there shafts, I can pick up the phone and call them, or buy replacement parts when I need them.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, the arrow is just as important if not more important than the bow, but if your having fun, shoot'em
Just my opinion, I could be wrong.
If they are longer you don't have to shoot as far. :bigsmyl:
I like arrows 1/2" longer than my draw. Mostly just a cosmetic thing.
The less sticking up out of my back quiver is always a good thing.
I make wood stumper arrows 2" too long so I can break them three times and still have enough to mount a steel blunt to without overdrawing.
Let em' fly, Arwin! :archer2:
If they're shooting fine for you, leave them long - carbons get stiff quickly as you cut them. In other words, don't fix what ain't broke.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
If they are longer you don't have to shoot as far. :bigsmyl:
To Funny :biglaugh:
I have a 30" draw length and I prefer a 32" arrow. Nothing shorter.
I usually tune a bow starting at full length. and cut down until optimum flight is achieved. I really don't look at overhang just flight!
the only reason i prefer a set arrow length is consistency; when i feel that broadhead on my index finger, bow hand, I know I'm there.
Shoot 'em!
I have a 28 inch draw, and had most of my first arrows cut at 29 inch. I went to Wally world, and bought some Carbon Express aluminum arrows at 31 inch. I went home and shot them at 15 yards and 20 yards, and put them all into a half dollar size group. After I did that I have all my arrows cut to that 31 inch length. Instinctive/gap shooter
My CX 90"s are a liitle longer than I like but they spined out there and fly awesome go with it if they work
I use to keep my arrows in tune for the bow. My draw length is 28" and I have the same shafts in 29" and 31" for different bows.
I like longer arrows. Perhaps the spine is a little stiff for my set up, and the length helps to weaken them up. At any rate, they fly well, with 300 grains up front, and that's the name of the game.