Last evening, I replaced the strike plate on my 3/16 past center cut bow with the exact same velcro material. I replaced the old strike plate because it had been smoothed down to the nylon backing material. Immediately following the replacement, the arrows were hitting 5" right on the target at 25 yards. I compared the thickness of the new material to the worn strike plate and it was only 1/16th of an inch thicker of velcro fuzzy material. I replaced back the worn strike plate material, and the arrow came right back to center on target. I would never have guessed that such a small change would have made a visible tuning change to the exact same arrows. I am going take this as a lesson to keep an eye on all changes in bow and arrow set-up, no matter how minute, in the future.
Mark
Definately. I start thin and pad out my riser pad with either leather strips or bits of Nylon cable tie until it is shooting where I look windage wise. Then I work on the nock point and brace height if it is a new bow or string.
Side strike plate thickness is very important to me when tuning an arrow to a bow since I use Stu Miller's calculator program. The Center Cut/Strike Plate Position number box is critical in the calculator. The number in that box has to be correct and if it isn't, it will throw my arrow way off with regards to tuning.
I also use a velcro side strike plate. My recurves are cut 3/16" past center and my strike plate thickness is 1/8" (2/16") thick.
Once I notice my arrows don't start impacting where I'm aiming at, I surmise the culprit is the side strike plate which is getting thinner. If I confirm the side strike plate is getting thinner, I replace it. Velcro is inexpensive.
I could get by by changing the brace height to compensate for the thinner side strike plate, but I like my brace height exactly where it is.
Rick Welch taught me the following:
1. Leather strike plate = far left
2. velcro brings it more right
3. Martin Archery pads bring it even further to the right.
Try it, you won't believe it...
One bowyer whose brain I used to pick told me that in his past, they measured a "berger button" threads: 1/8 of a turn was equal to 1/32 of an inch.
That 1/32 of an inch difference in side plate pressure reportedly moved an errant arrow from high left or high right tear to a bullet hole!
1/32"!!!
Dont tell me trad bows don't have infinite tuning ability. I won't believe it...just it can be tuned beyond my ability to shoot well enough to measure it...but it's there.
You sir, must have a relatively clean/consistent release!
5 inches is a lot for that small a difference. Are you sure you have the right spine arrow?
1/16 is about equal to 5# of spine with wood arrows-should have a similar impact with other materials as well.
Good stuff, I had no idea sideplates had this much of an impact.
Center shot and strike plate thickness also have an effect on spine tuning. I wish I understood more about how this works, so I could discuss it intelligently, but I built mine up in order to move my nocks right in bare 5575 GTs and it worked great.
Its funny this thread just came up. I was having a problem shooting to the right. Im left handed. I increased the sideplate by 1/8th and my impact centered.