Alright - so i got the A&H tuning guide and I am working thru tuning my bows. First bow worked flawlessly with very minimal changes required. The second bow not so much...
One of the requirements is to have the shaft contact the shelf directly above the back side of the grip. If my arrow is approx 90 deg to string that works, however as i move my nocking point higher during tuning the arrow goes on an angle. this causes the point of contact with the shelf to move forward. Do i install a thicker shelf material? put somthing under the shelf material?
also how high is too high for nocking point? 7/8" acceptable?
thanks
Mike
You can put something under the shelf material. You can also continue tuning without overly concerning yourself about that alignment. In a perfect world that alignment would always be present but it is very possible to get a good arrow flight without it.
You can take a rasp to the shelf too, but I'd go with the under shelf solution first.
The "correct" height of the nocking point is difficult to answer. various things can effect the placement, such as limb design and top/bottom limb strength relative to each other.
How is the arrow flight? Any porpoising?
Additionally, split finger vs 3-under will vary results greatly. Never had much trouble getting good results using a bow square to locate the string nock 3/8" above zero. Precise adjust fistmele & you;re home. Seen guys shoot with high nock points but not so sure how? More than one way.
On one of my bows i had the same problem. I put a piece of match stick under the velcrow rug on the shelf and it worked great for me.
A lot of problems with bare shafting in relation to nock high are alleviated by using a nock set above and below the arrow. Keeps the nock from sliding down the string after release. I was never able to get anything but a nock-high bare shaft flight until I added the lower nock.
in the following, lots will depend on your form, as any inconsistencies will yield false shaft/arrow flight readings! always work on form first and foremost - if not, yer wasting time and money trying to get shafts to overcome your shooting problems. not good.
books have been written on tuning arrows for archers and bows (or vice versa). in essence, i find it best to solve the bare shaft spine criteria first (left/right, stiff/weak). much easier to do with synthetic shafts that allow quick point weight changes. i don't much care where the shaft lands as long as the flight at 10-20 yards is dead straight. once you have a bare shaft that flies sans wiggle-waggle, adjust the bowstring's nock point to cure any bare shaft up/down porpoising. you should now have a bare shaft that will fly like a dart at 10-20 yards.
at this point, you can fletch up and yer good to go - or, do more flight testing of both bare and fletch shafts/arrows, making tedious adjustments to get both to agree and converge on the spot yer shooting at. or just go bowhunting. i go bowhunting.