All,
As you might notice from the Shaft footing sizes chart, there is no good shaft size for the ICS Bowhunter 500s. I did something that seems to work pretty well so I thought I'd share it. (I was going to take pictures but wound up covered in epoxy)
A 2117 shaft fits loosely over the carbon shafts but has a lot of play. Shimming with a regular piece of printer paper between the two provides a perfect fit. I cut small rectangles of paper that wrap around the shaft with no overlap, and are just a hair shorter than my footing. I saturated the paper with epoxy (both sides, let it soak in) and wrapped them around the shaft, Then put some epoxy inside the footing and slipped it over. A little cleanup and all is well.
A few tips:
- Use 30 min+ epoxy. I used 5 min and needed to mix up a new batch for each footing to not risk having it kick on me before I was ready. The epoxy needs to be pretty fluid to get the footing to slide over the paper and not just stick.
- This is a lot messier then normal due to needing to manipulate the paper. Wear gloves and mask off the rest of the shaft. I didn't do this at first and had to spend a bunch of time cleaning off epoxy. (both from the arrow and me)
- Pre-wrap the paper around the shaft and then curl it a little tighter still. This makes it a lot easier to work with as it wants to stay in place.
i also use 2117 for my 500's but i just use a decent amount of epoxy and have never had one come loose. great tip though!
one thing i should add...the reason i believe mine dont come off is b/c i cut the 2117s with a small pipe cutter and it actually crimps the 2117 a hair, just enough to make a snug fit.
The 2013 is just slightly smaller inside than a 2117.Not as common a shaft but they are around.
wanna bring this topic up back to view again as i've realized the great need to foot carbons and mine are the ics 500 flavor.
anyone got more input on what alum size to use?
is 2117 still the best bet?
much obliged. :thumbsup: :campfire:
Bucky, you mentioned a footing size chart, where would I find this chart?? Thanks :campfire:
carbon/aluminum footing size chart (http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000098)
Thanks Rob :thumbsup:
yer welcome - the footing chart is a constant work in progress. carbon footings are absolutely essential for roving, enuf so that all carbon shaft manufacturers should offer them as an add-on option, correctly sized.
it should be noted that 3rivers sells properly sized 1/2" "carbon collars" at $8/dozen.
Rob did you ever find an aluminum shaft that would fit the 500's the best?
And on those collars...at 1/2" are they long enough to work? Everyone seems to use 1" or longer....
I use 2117s and epoxy...no problem. I use my lathe and a file to cut the aluminum so I can taper the ends. I've got a good supply of 2117s, so I'm not really interested in anything different. I use the footings primarily on stumping arrows, so perfection isn't absolutely necessary, not that I recall missing a stump because of the footings.
I also cut a short piece for the nock end. I'm thinking that will become standard on my practice arrows. It might not save you from a direct Robin Hood, but a glancing one probably. I used to use masking tape under fishing rod handles and never had one break loose. I imagine that would work here too...haven't tried it yet though.
never found a good fitting footing for the beman 500's.
i dunno if the collar length matters ... my guess is probably not.
I use 2213's on my Gold Tip 55-75 shafts and my Cabelas shafts. I have been told they are actually Beman ICS's. They are a little loose but as said 1" long and plenty of epoxy works fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i dunno if the collar length matters ... my guess is probably not.
I often use the footings to recycle Robin Hooded shafts by stripping the feathers, pulling the insert, flipping the shaft end-for-end, and making a footing that is longer than the split in the shaft, usually 1 to 1 1/2" will do the trick. I glue in the insert then epoxy the footing on. If you are using brass inserts, make sure you slide to footing onto the shaft from the nock end. Once the epoxy is set, I hold the nock end of the arrow and bang the point end on the bench. If the repair is successful, you won't get any buzz back through your fingers.
I have several of these, and they are virtually indestructible. About the only way to get rid of one is to lose it.
I just tried some 2013 on bowhunter 500's.
They won't fit at first.
After cutting I chamfered the footing front and back and inside and out with a rifle cartridge chamfer tool.
I took a rifle cleaning brass brush and put some rubbing compound on it.
Put the brush in a drill, and "honed" the inside of the footing for about 1 min on each footing.
remove the insert and the nock
After honing, I put a VERY thin amount of honing oil on the shaft.
Put an insert in the "nock end" ..don't glue it.
Then I put the footing on the tip of the shaft.
Hold the shaft vertical with the footing on a board. Then tap the rear end with a rubber mallet.
Once the footing is almost all the way on, I had to place the end on a piece of aluminum as the footing cut into the 2x4.
No glue needed.
I think I may smear a little epoxy around the rear of the footing just to smooth out the transition from shaft to footing for easier arrow removal from target.
The next largest easton shaft ID should be 2117.
After that they just get bigger.
Hey, Z,
An old comp arrow builder taught me that the purpose behind expoxied footings is to FREEZE the shaft in place behind the insert so that the shaft doesn't slide up OVER the insert collar on impact...
That made sense to me at least. That whole insert up inside the shaft IS NOT the insert going up inside on impact, but is the shaft continuing forward on impact and riding up OVER the insert collar.
Without epoxy...how will the alum over-footing do that?
I understand what you're saying.
I was also worried about the glancing type blows encountered when hitting bones and "hard stuff" while stumping.
I figured some reinforcement would help with sideways blowouts. I'm using some loooong 300 grain tips that'll have a lot of leverage to pry out with.
These footings are TIGHT and won't go over the lip of the insert. So I hope it will keep the carbon from being able to expand at all to slip over the insert on impact.
Thanks for the insight Dave.
I really didn't think about it in that way.
I think I have it covered though...famous last words...lol
if a "milled" 2013 makes a tight fit over a beman 500, just wick in some quality water thin cya to one end of the sleeve and it will Never move, not ever.
good idea Rob.
:thumbsup: