FWIW,
Using GT Trad 3555s
I'm experimenting with 3/16 wood dowels as "weight tubes." I find they are just larger than the GT nock inside dia. I trim them (point taper so to speak) and press in the wood dowel for a snug fit to the nock then trim the dowel so the other end contacts the tip insert back. I take scotch tape at four points along the shaft to make the dowel stable along the length of the shaft (bushings, if you will - also keeps down rattling noise) and it makes the spine stiffer. Kinda like turning a 3555 into a 5575. The only problem is weight consistency with the wooden dowels. With the dowel pressed into the nock and touching the insert back it doesn't separate with the inertia of release or upon impact.
Very experimental at this stage for me. Wish I had a spine tester but flight tells me it's stiffer thus allowing for heavier points and a better/higher GPP arrow.
Arrow with no point before tube - 301
Dowel weight w/tape - 139
440 total
with point 616gr (176 gr Eclipse single bevel)
I suspect moisture could cause weight variances so sealing the wood is another consideration.
Just passing this along in case someone else wants to try it. I'm not sure if I'm duplicating an idea someone else has had but thought I'd throw it out there.
I'd be afraid of warping of the dowel.
Very interesting concept, but like you said spine is probably gonna be an issue.
Keep us posted
QuoteOriginally posted by reddogge:
I'd be afraid of warping of the dowel.
A consideration. But sealing it may reduce the chances greatly. The positioning of the tape spacers also can help with that.
I have tested the flight from my 64@29 D longbow with a +5/16 shelf and a 174gr field point. Flight is great. The target rocks when struck. So far it's an inexpensive way to make the 3555s more versatile without the weight systems with insert attachments and/or brass inserts.
I hope to try this system out on game at some point.
Dr Ashby used forgewoods inside early carbon arrows in the Natal Study. This was some of his earlier work on penetration...
I have been using only the one. I made a second one after posting this AM and it weighs at 621, 5gr heavier but it too flies great.
So far results are looking good for my use. These may be my hog arrows in March for Ray's.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Equismith/PICT1290.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Equismith/PICT1291.jpg)
Spine tester? You don't need no commercial spine tester. In one of the other treads regarding building a bamboo arrow someone used two nails in a fence and a two pound bunch of bananas to measure deflection. I would take a known good arrow. Make a mark at its deflection point and then measure the arrow you have made. While it may not give you the exact measurement of spine it will tell you if you are light or heavy.
At any rate, I thought the idea a neat one. (:
Martin
When I shot very heavy longbows, I stuffed dowels of known spine into #12 Microlites. I kept the grain at 90 degrees to the string just like a wood arrow. I also used hardwood dowels just in the front end of some #12s and then used the wood to make my front tapers. The increased foc allowed the use of the tough #12 in lighter bows without the need for extra arrow length.
I haved used wood dowels for a while. I crimp them every 6" (as flat as I can crimp them) so they don't rattle. No problems with knocking the nocks off either.
My 2 cents.
Matt