I measured my draw length by placing the ruler on my chest and put both hands in front. Both middle fingers measures 25.5". Is this correct? When I measured my draw length for my compound it was 30". How did my draw length shorten by 4.5"? I'm 6'4".
I don't think that would be correct as that is not the way a bow is drawn. I draw may bow at about a 45 deg angle to the target which would add an inch or two and my anchor point at the corner of the mouth would also add to the draw length. I use a nocked shaft and draw just like I'm shooting and have someone mark the shaft at the bow. Then I measure this from the nock.
There is no way that is right for someone 6'4"! You are probably at least 29-30". I'm 5'9" and am about 27.5". Try what R. Fletcher said.
There are formulas involving wingspan and a person's height (either one divided by 2.5). These work fine for some folks and not so fine for others. I'm 5'6" and have a 26" draw. My son is 6'2" and has a 28" draw. The formulas say my draw is 26.4" but it's a bit shorter.
As Limbender states above, I'd bet your draw length is very close to 30".
The best way is as per R. Fletcher above.
You should read no further unless you are eager to know more than most:
At full draw you should have your finger touching your anchor --commonly the index finger tip touching the corner of your mouth. Many folks (including me) like to place the 1st knuckle of the thumb (nearest the palm) under the jawline. However, you should keep the thumb folded in your palm -- stretching the thumb to the back of your neck creates unwanted tension of the drawing hand.
Your drawing arm should be parallel or slightly higher than your bow arm.
When at full draw if you imagine a line from your bow grip, through your anchor and past the drawing elbow, the elbow should be about 1/2"-1" in front of that line. This gives you 'room' to use your back muscles to budge the elbow back and then relax the draw hand and fingers to release the string.
The first thing you need is a CONSISTENT, REPEATABLE ANCHOR POINT. (That may anyplace from your upper row of teeth to just under your eye AND from rather forward on your face to quite a ways back. There is NO "one correct place" to anchor.)
THEN, and only then, take a long arrow and draw it to your anchor, while an assistant clearly marks where the arrow meets the back (i.e. the far side) of the bow.
Do that several times to check the consistency of your draw.
Unless you have a severely cramped shooting style, you're likely to be approaching a 30" draw.
Mark
Wide shoulders, protruding breast bone and short arms can give a false reading on the rulers test. A 6'4" person does not always draw to 30" or whatever with a trad bow necessarily. Everyone is their own size, regardless 25.5" does seem a bit short. I would not be surprised that you may find 30" will be a straight out stretch with a trad bow, depending on the the bow arm and the grip type 28" would be understandable if you were fully extending with your compound at 30".
1) you need to have someone who knows what they are looking at watch you draw your bow- they can tell you if you are fully open or not. Its easy to not fully open up even when you think you are full drawing. I added an inch after an old, wise archer saw my form and told me I was not opening up. He showed my what that felt like/how it affected your back and chest and shoulders.
2)Put masking tape on an arrow mark it every inch from 27 to 31 and see where it hits at your full draw on the bows riser back.
you must be built like a t-rex :biglaugh:
Place a clothes pin on a nocked arrow in front of your riser. Bring the bow to full draw, anchor and then let the bow down. Measure from belly of the nock to the clothes pin. (Thanks Buddy!)
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
bit shorter.
At full draw you should have your finger touching your anchor --commonly the index finger tip touching the corner of your mouth. Many folks (including me) like to place the 1st knuckle of the thumb (nearest the palm) under the jawline. However, you should keep the thumb folded in your palm -- stretching the thumb to the back of your neck creates unwanted tension of the drawing hand.
Your drawing arm should be parallel or slightly higher than your bow arm.
When at full draw if you imagine a line from your bow grip, through your anchor and past the drawing elbow, the elbow should be about 1/2"-1" in front of that line. This gives you 'room' to use your back muscles to budge the elbow back and then relax the draw hand and fingers to release the string.
This is one of the best descriptions of a proper anchor point I've seen put into text. Nicely done! :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
the most common error with archers just getting into a traditional bow is they start out over bowed with too much weight and try and develop form and anchor points. finding the correct anchor point for your body on a lighter weight bow first is the way to go. then bring the weight up you can comfortably hold without loosing your form.
anchor points very a lot depending on the individual, and this effects your actual draw length a lot.
QuoteOriginally posted by BowHunterGA:
Place a clothes pin on a nocked arrow in front of your riser. Bring the bow to full draw, anchor and then let the bow down. Measure from belly of the nock to the clothes pin. (Thanks Buddy!)
Another vote for this method. :thumbsup:
Thanks for everyone's help.