I changed to GT 400's this year from 2213's.
Never did I think that I would have had this much trouble.
Long story short I finally added enough weight up front to hit center again.
ended up adding about 80 gr. with the broadhead and insert weighing 227 gr + - 3gr.
I took a 3" 8-32 screw , put in in the back side of the insert and kept cutting it off till it shot center again faster than ordering brass inserts :D :D :D
also I added about 5 % more FOC --Now at 16%
Carbons offer much lattitude.
Be patient for the learning process may take a little time. Once on board, you may find yourself never looking back.
I tried carbons a few years ago too. I'm sure they are great; but after a month I was back to wood-it is great to have choices.
I've tried carbons twice over the years, finally gave up and went back to wood and aluminum.
I reckon I'm not smart enuff to tune carbons.
I have been messing with carbons all summer. I FINALLY have them flying like darts. It took alot of tinkering but can be done.
Glad you got it right.
I guess I got lucky. The first time I tried carbons with trad, it went great. I only had to adjust the thickness of my strike plate. Since then, I have tuned three different bows to the same Beman MFX Classic 500 carbons just by adjusting strike plate thickness.
I'm sold on skinny carbons!
Speaking generally, a 400 spine is for a rather heavy bow, maybe 55 and up. If they are cut short, say 28-29, they might work on bows of 60 plus pounds. If you give us the poundage of the bow and shaft length, it would help giving more specific directions.
I went to AD Trads several years ago and never had a problem going from my wood arrows to the carbons. Course I had Ted Fry at Raptor Archery build my first set and gave him all my info, ie, draw wt, draw length etc and he built them the correct way, ie length and such. All my carbons fly like darts from all of my bows, 64#-55# same arrow.
Update:
The 225 grains up front did it--- they fly great.
Just got to get my head screwed back on straight.
Ive been allowing for bad flight for a week and I think my sights have been knocked off ;)
I guss I am one of the lucky ones I got both Carbon and wood to shoot out of my Pronghorn Long Bow. It has taken a little longer to find the right spine wood shaft that LG likes but that half fun. I love this stuff!!!
Carbons are great if you are looking for high FOC. I have found that they are stiff compared to overall weight. To get the weight up to 10 GPI I simply added heavier points. My wife's bow likes 200 grains and my bows like anywhere from 200-250 grains. Can't beat them for penetration when they are built that way and they seem to last forever. Losing them is a bigger problem than breaking them.
I think a lot of folks cut them THEN try to tune them. I start with full length shafts and it seems to work for me.
Carbons have there place for many and after shooting wood, fiber glass, some other mat'l I don't recall and aluminum, they have been a winner for me.
Same 350 spine carbon arrow utlized for different bows and/or different set-ups. Both bows have the same 1/8" past center shelf.
Actual set-ups:
Bow A (51@28)Set-up 1 - 245 grains up front; weights ~460 grains; 29 1/2" length: On the mark with 150 gn WW's
Bow A (51@28)Set-up 1 - 400 grains up front; weights ~611 grains; 28 3/4" length: On the mark with 300 gn Big 3's.
Bow B (55@28)- 350 grains up front; weights ~560 grains; 29 1/2" length. On the mark with 300 gn Big 3's.
love the carbons, love the woodies.
both require your attention and time during their shakedown trial periods, but they will eventually behave and fly quite well for ya if you are patient, take your time, let them tell you what needs to be tweaked and then use common sense to make adjustments. :thumbsup:
Been shooting carbons for 10 years or so. I know how to tune them with no problem. I recently shot some wood arrows and could not get over how much quieter they were. It's got me thinking about going back to wood after this season.