Since I think I have almost mastered shooting my bows correctly now I want help with my back quiver problems.
I own at least 6 of the darn things and I've moved straps to just about any and every position I can see where to punch a hole to attach it and still haven't been able to duplicate anything that remotely could be called easy arrow retrieval out of it.
In other words I am ready to make this work some way.
I will not attach a quiver on my Hills or Hill style bows!
Sure I could use something like a side stalker or one of those other fancy quivers but I am dead set on making a back quiver user friendly for me.
Thanks in advance!
God bless,Mudd
PS: If you have one that you know will work for me just give me a shout and I'll trade two or three of the ones I have for it...lol
Mudd, I will bring mine to Columbia in a couple of weeks and you can use it and see how the strap is attached. That is part of the secret to constructing the backquiver correctly. By the way I told David last night you really like that Old Tom!
I'll be interested to see what you come up with. I'm almost ashamed to say I've never tried a back quiver. I could see how useful they'd be, but the where I hunt, I'd be snagging them on branches for sure.
I share your aversion to putting bow quivers (or for that matter, carbon arrows) on my Hills. I also don't wear sneakers with dress suits or put pickle juice on my icecream. Call me crazy.
Back quivers seem to work best when:
1.) They are supple enough to conform to the flat of your back/upper shoulder (more comfort, less bounce or roll, better for keeping arrows from rattling around).
2.) The quiver is worn at a slight angle such that the opening is roughly behind your 'shooting ear'. Lots of folks seem to like a more severe carry angle that puts the quiver almost diagonal on their back and the opening further from the top of the shoulder. To each his own, but that position makes it harder to access an arrow and requires either pulling the strap to raise the quiver or using the bow hand to 'bump' the quiver base and push the opening up and towards the ear for grabbing the nock end of the arrow (the right place to grab one). The latter can be a bother and more than a little annoying in tight quarters.
3.) Use a quiver that is smaller than larger. Large quivers are both heavier and harder to maneuver than lighter, less bulky models. Be careful of adding to much 'stuff' into/onto quivers (knives, hawks, antler decorations, strapping on spare clothing, etc.), since this can affect how it balances and rides. If you do add stuff and it has much weight, best to keep it lower than higher so that the quiver's center of gravity stays low. Few situations require carrying more than 6 to 8 arrows and since smaller quivers are easier to maneuver in the woods/brush and weigh considerably less if made of leather, they make sense in most cases. Synthetic material, though not as "cool" or traditional as leather, is often much lighter and in that sense does have it's advantages.
Other than this the best way to find what works for you is via trial/error/regular use. Back quivers do grow on you if given the chance. I hardly even notice I have mine on anymore... sorta like an old favorite hat.
Whats your main problem with the quiver, are you having trouble reaching the arrows?
I went from a back quiver to a side kick style quiver but couldn't stay away from the back quiver, its speed and ease of drawing and replacing arrows can't be beaten.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/t1-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/t2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/t3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/t4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/t5.jpg)
I liked that article when it came out Rob, and I still do....good stuff
Mudd,
PM sent.
Bud
I love the boots for the arrow, will have to see my saddle smith for some of those.
Thanks! I really liked the article Rob.
I will make one work...one way or another so I can keep my alter ego identity..lol
God bless,Mudd
hey mudd i talked to ceder ridge leather sez he ca make one that will stay more upright and wont slide down yer shoulder where i cant reach it nothing beats a backquiver for that quick second shot anyone out there own one that can testify
Great article ROb!
Thanks, Rob. Was thinking of that article when I read Mudd's post. Mr. Toll did an excellent job in describing most aspects of using/hunting with a back quiver.
Mudd,
I am a right handed shooter and use my left elbow to push the bottom of the quiver back-which brings to top of the quiver forward making the arrows easier to reach. I think videos of Schulz and Hill indicate that that is what they did. You may have thought of that but just thought I would mention it.
Kirk
'nuther PM Mudd :)
Thanks Bud!!
God bless,Mudd
For those having trouble keeping their backquivers upright enough to easily withdraw arrows, one way is to attach the upper end of the strap (either via the strap itself or with an added length of rawhide) to the OPPOSITE side of the quiver opening (the side farthest away from you). This pulls the quiver tighter into your back, keeps it pointing up rather than sideways and pinches or 'sandwiches' shafts between the sides of the quiver opening. This works well as long as you only need a few arrows at the ready (deer hunting) but isn't recommended if you need to access many arrows quickly (target shooting/small game hunting). Again, quivers with a fairly supple upper section (near the opening) that will lay flatter to the back is reccomended to get the most versatility and best results from a backquiver. Stiff quivers are alot harder to deal with as a hunting tool.
I'm not a fan of loading a back quiver down with lots of gear like that article suggests (that's where a fanny pack is handy, if that much gear is needed), but it can certainly be used that way if so desired. Also, leather broadhead booties are neat but a piece of closed-cell foam fitted into the base of the quiver is an easy mod, works fine to protect the heads and helps keep arrows from shifting.
Have fun with your backquivers! :thumbsup:
Mudd,
'nuther pm
:thumbsup:
Here is another reason that this family is just the "Best"!
Bud B. has stepped up in an attempt to help me master this back quiver thing.
Here is what he has made with his own hands and is sending to me.
How do I say thank you enough for folks like Bud except to pay it forward.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Quiver%20by%20Bud%20B/Q3-1.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Quiver%20by%20Bud%20B/Q4.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Quiver%20by%20Bud%20B/Q3.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Quiver%20by%20Bud%20B/Q2.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Quiver%20by%20Bud%20B/Q1.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Once the conditioner and oil sets in the colors should balance more.
Keep the Faith Mudd. Stay strong in your trials.
Bud
<><
GOOD LOOKING QUIVER MUDD!! Can I see some Pics on HOW Your Straps are set up?? Their Location could have something to do with it. I dont know :dunno: , just suggesting!
In the Process of Building My Own Back Quiver now, taking My Time, and trying to do it Right! Thats why I wondered about the Strap Situation. I know III r's sells the Extra Strap thats supposed to "Control" the Location. I dunno. :dunno:
Shakes at this moment you've seen as much of it as I have but Bud might be able to give you the details.
God bless,Mudd
Very nice quiver.
I have built this type of quiver for over forty years, and prefer it to all others.
If you watch his videos, DVD, or on Youtxxx, of the elephant hunt, lion hunt scenes, or one of the other videos, you will see the position of the back quiver, early in his career, and later. The quiver collapses on his back (flat). Notice the top corner is behind the right shoulder, and the bottom of the mouth is below the shoulder. I see a difference between the quiver worn in Africa, and some of the early models.
If you attach the strap below the fold, and 2-3" below the top edge (fold), on the back side, both top and bottom, the quiver will lie flat, and the nocks are easier to reach. If the strap is attached on the fold, the arrows move away from the body. It can also happen if the strap is too tight across the chest, or the leather is too stiff. Personally, I find it harder to to reach the arrows when they are further back (out of position).
If you Google Howard Hill Archer, you will see the positions in the videos. Also, look at the series of Images of Howard Hill. You will see early images, and later images of quivers by Howard Hill.
There is a picture of one made by Howard Hill Archery, showing the strap attached to the fold, and not the back side. The mouth of the quiver is turned out. I feel this type is harder to reach and use.
You will also see several images with the arrows further back (obviously, not for him, but for me it is harder when hung this way). This never seemed to be a problem, because he could still reach the nocks. He attached the strap to the fold, early in his career, and to the back later on.
I prefer the strap on the back, below the fold or crease and below the top edge, the arrows and nocks are closer to the arm and elbow when reaching back.
Depending on your body shape, and size of your chest and arms, you may find it works best in one position over another, proving that one size does not fit all.
Let me know if you have questions.
I still have the mag with Scotts quiver, that was one of my fav reads back then,,,mark#78 :campfire: :archer2: