I have trying to sharpen my Tusker Concords with my KME and I swear it can't be done. These heads are so hard they could be used to cut diamonds. I am trying to rough them with 80 grit and barely making headway.
Sorry had to vent.
Try replaceable blade heads, stingers,phantoms,razorcaps. I set the bevel on some concords with a dremal tool. There to tough to use just a stone.
use a 14 inch file to start
You must get the intial bevel/grind started with a heavy file. Use a heavy 14" file or auto body rasp, not one of the little Grobet files. Once you peel away the surface material to set the bevel, then switch to the KME. The KME is a great honing tool but not really designed to grind down factory new heads. Further, you can adust the angle of your KME to "meet" the bevel that you set with the file as well.
I totally agree with the title of your thread. I HATE sharpening. i get it done but it is no where near as easy as the guys who know what they are doing make it sound. I wish I lived where the KME's were made so I could have him show me in person how to do it.
Bisch
I LOVE sharpening Broad heads One of the annual rituals of preparing for the hunt . Maybe jsut me but I Like it and like touching them up also .
I immediately asked myself "I wonder if they mean they hate sharpening broadheads in the same way I hate building arrows?"...lol
I'm not sure that's the case but I feel for you if it is...lol
God bless,Mudd
I actually LIKE sharpening but if we were all the same what fun would that be?
The KME is not the way to go (at first) for any head that needs a good initial bevel set like Tuskers, Grizzlies and the like. Use a file, make sure you've filed all the way through to set the edge and then use the KME to finish it off for a wicked sharp head. Marking the edge with a sharpie can help you with this. The KME is designed to sharpen, not remove large amounts of material, which many "trad" heads require prior to final sharpening.
Hope this helps, Tim @ Braveheart
QuoteThe KME is not the way to go (at first) for any head that needs a good initial bevel set like Tuskers, Grizzlies and the like
Why not? I would think all you have to do his contact him and tell him the angle you need and what broadhead your are dealing with and he would drill you an other hole for that situation...maybe am wrong it's happened before.
me too! i have never been taught how to corectly sharpen them with a file.
i tell you i bought a good knife sharpner. a hand help little ziper one. and i can get a two blade shaving sharp.
so thats what i hunt with
i tried to shoot snuffers. bought a snuffer sharpner file. i sux at it. i bought a nice file.... i sux at it!
but i can do a little zipper!! lol
File followed by three little words. Paper wheel sharpener!
Yep I promise they haven't made a broadhead a file won't cut down. The KME will do it. Call Ron at KME, he will tell you how to get them Sharp.
I don't think there is a broadhead out there harder than a really good knife blade. We sharpen knife blades all the time. They're just easier to hang on to. I left the edge a bit thick on some BG-42 blades that are approx RC61. Yeah, you're darn right that first time is tough. After the bevel is established (and silicon carbide or diamonds will cut any steel), it's easy to touch them up. I think the factory might do a little better job thinning the factory edge, but nobody said life was easy :-)
I love the Concordes and followed the video clip on the Braveheart Archery site where John Tietzel (sp) demonstrates his method and it WORKS
For a long time I couldn't get my broadhead sharp enough. I just kept at it with a 14in file. When I finally got the bevel right. And got them shaving hair I sure was proud to have done it myself. It can be a pain just keep at it and get that big file to start. I love my Zwickey Delta's and they are razor sharp now.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
I totally agree with the title of your thread. I HATE sharpening. i get it done but it is no where near as easy as the guys who know what they are doing make it sound. I wish I lived where the KME's were made so I could have him show me in person how to do it.
Bisch
Bisch, will an Accusharp work on a Silver Flame? Just wondering out of curiousity. I thought about picking some up, but I'm sharpening challenged as well. Luckily, I've have had some success with the Accusharp on my Stingers.
I do not like repairing or building arrows or sharpining broad heads but it needs to be done.
I've got the bur and still no sharp head. Once I work off the bur the head is still dull. The season opened this morning and I can't hunt because I have dull heads. It is really pissing me off.
The initial proper tool and method should alleviate your pain.
QuoteOriginally posted by mathews4ever:
I've got the bur and still no sharp head. Once I work off the bur the head is still dull. The season opened this morning and I can't hunt because I have dull heads. It is really pissing me off.
mathews4ever,
I'm sorry that you're frustrated with the sharpening process. We are very proud of our Tusker broadhead line up but it just doesn't seem to me that they are a very good fit for you... different strokes for different folks as the saying goes. Please return them for a full refund or exchange regardless of condition. If you'd like PM or e-mail me and we can discuss options that might better suit your needs. We also have a number of pre-sharpened heads available, including Tuskers.
Braveheart Archery
10708 Hickman Heights Rd
Kansas City, MO 64137
braveheartarchery@gmail.com
Thank you, Tim @ Braveheart
get a KME BROADHEAD SHARPNER and a large can of wd 40...spray stone heavy....3 minutes bear razor head dull to shaving hair sharp.....Dave
I had same problem I ordered KME sharp Tusker heads from Braveheart archery and they are sharper than anything I have ever seen right out of box. Now that I see the bevel and tip how it should be (and see that it can actually be done) Im gonna give it another go. Good luck
Ed
And the shipping at Braveheart is quick. I ordered from KustomKing 6 days before Braveheart and both came same day.
I like sharpening broadheads and knives. That being said, I just got some Zephyr Sasquatch heads and they are shaving sharp right out of the package and I was very happy about it as I am pressed for time lately.
or use thunderheads or muzzys......both will kill very well with trad gear.........
Watch this one from 3Rivers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCm2thbGoZI
What kind of stone are you using? The KME doesn't do the sharpening, the stone does. KME is just the worlds greatest shapening angle guide. Try an agressive coarse diamond stone to establish a bevel follwed by a medium or fine and then a cardboard or leather strop My experience has been that most people who cant sharpen with any method are usually using way too much pressure "rolling the edge" as fast as its formed.
I like to sharpen- step by step activities like sharpening or reloading ammunition relax me when I am stressed out.
Great offer Tim. The single bevel Tusker Concords I bought from you have been the heads I find I can get the sharpest. It does take a bit of file work but once I strop the head on cardboard look out.
Rada.
Rob
Thanks for the offer Tim, but I do believe that I got it. I was afraid of wrecking them by being to aggressive but I finally broke out the bench mounted belt sander and set an edge. Followed that up with 80, 120, 220, 400, 600, and 800. Got a shaving sharp mirror finish. Thanks for all the tips. We have the best group of guys here on tradgang. I sure am glad that I found this sight.
Have you called KME? Sorry if you did and I missed that, but he spent the time on the phone necessary to help me. Great guy and great product if you ask me.
Gary
Tim, it was really good of you to make that offer... and without condition OR accusation of any kind. I respect you both as a man and a businessman!!! :thumbsup:
Glad to hear you got it worked out in the end, Jeremiah. Hope your season opener goes great!
I use a big file like suggested to set the bevel using my KME broadhead sharpener (not the knife sharpener though I have that too). I place the file along side a piece of wood the same thickness as the file so the sharpener sets the same bevel when I switch to the stone. I slide the sharpener sideways along the file, point or heel first along the length of the file. Resist the temptation to apply too much pressure when trying to hog off metal as even a stiff broadhead will flex slightly with too much pressure and mess up your angle at best. Apply too much pressure and you will be hogging metal off the shoulder of the bevel and not the edge. Move to the stones once you've got an edge with the file. I skip the coarse stone because I can get it shaving sharp with the file. Fine stone gets it surgical. KME is the best system I've seen for getting a consistent bevel. Does take some practice though and every broadhead is different.
I have good luck with two blade heads,but the three blade I just can't get.
they are a PITA to sharpen. I really had to file the heck out of them to get the edge then work them with the kme. i have one pretty sharp.
anyways i switched to hunor africas. they come shary sharp and i can bring them right back to the sharpness on my kme. holds a great edge though
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Kendrot:
I use a big file like suggested to set the bevel using my KME broadhead sharpener (not the knife sharpener though I have that too). I place the file along side a piece of wood the same thickness as the file so the sharpener sets the same bevel when I switch to the stone. I slide the sharpener sideways along the file, point or heel first along the length of the file. Resist the temptation to apply too much pressure when trying to hog off metal as even a stiff broadhead will flex slightly with too much pressure and mess up your angle at best. Apply too much pressure and you will be hogging metal off the shoulder of the bevel and not the edge. Move to the stones once you've got an edge with the file. I skip the coarse stone because I can get it shaving sharp with the file. Fine stone gets it surgical. KME is the best system I've seen for getting a consistent bevel. Does take some practice though and every broadhead is different.
That is an awesome tip. I will definitely be using that trick next time.
Quoteanyways i switched to hunor africas.
And what are those a Sliver Flame spin off?
Tuskers are a b______d to get sharpened initially. I've used them to good effect once they were sharp, though.
Braveheart will get more of my business!
Way to go Tim.
QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B.:
Braveheart will get more of my business!
Way to go Tim.
x2
QuoteOriginally posted by Hawkeye:
Tim, it was really good of you to make that offer... and without condition OR accusation of any kind. I respect you both as a man and a businessman!!! :thumbsup:
Glad to hear you got it worked out in the end, Jeremiah. Hope your season opener goes great!
Right on! :thumbsup:
Put me down for some hate as well. :banghead: I've been struggling with VPA Terminators, which I understand are supposed to be pretty easy. I bought the dang 12" Grobet file and a Jewel Stick 3 sided diamond sharpener. After a LOT of trial and error I was able to get them a little sharper than they came out of the package. They still are only hair pulling sharp, not really shaving sharp. I looked at every tutorial and tried several methods. I really want shaving sharp, but just can't find the promised land.
So is it just one of those things you have to mess around with until you just "get it"? I did notice that I got better results when I hit it hard at first, light at the end, and paid a lot of attention to consistent pressure and strokes per side.
I think they are sharp enough for hunting, but just barely. BUT, I'm going to keep at it if I can find the time.
And I am in for some serious hate too. Been sharpening a Woodsman for 3 hours and other than being shinier no sharper. Tried to sharpen an eclipse 4 blade for 2 hours and just keep flipping the burr from side to side! I would pay someone if I could ship broadheads and have them returned hunting sharp! I have grobet file, G5 diamond stone, smith sharpening system, KME broadhead sharpener and knife sharpener all to the same result suckyness! All on me not the products.
QuoteOriginally posted by LimBender:
Put me down for some hate as well. :banghead: I've been struggling with VPA Terminators, which I understand are supposed to be pretty easy. I bought the dang 12" Grobet file and a Jewel Stick 3 sided diamond sharpener. After a LOT of trial and error I was able to get them a little sharper than they came out of the package. They still are only hair pulling sharp, not really shaving sharp. I looked at every tutorial and tried several methods. I really want shaving sharp, but just can't find the promised land.
So is it just one of those things you have to mess around with until you just "get it"? I did notice that I got better results when I hit it hard at first, light at the end, and paid a lot of attention to consistent pressure and strokes per side.
I think they are sharp enough for hunting, but just barely. BUT, I'm going to keep at it if I can find the time.
Someone correct me if am wrong please but I can get 2 blades scary sharp with a few methods but I've struggled with 3 blades for years. I think what most people are doing who say they can't get a 3 blade sharp is testing them like they do a 2 blade. You are not going to get the same results doing that because of the angle difference. A razor blade is something like a 17-21 degree angle and most 2 blades are a 22-25 degree angle, both will shave hair when laid flat against your arm,a 3 blade is like a 30-33 degree angle and will not shave hair laid flat against your arm, if you do a sawing motion it will but you will not get the same results as a 2 blade. Try tilting your 3 blade a little more and then try to shave hair with it, or do the rubber band or paper test with it and come back and tell us your res
I'm sharpening challenged as well, but I've managed to put two and two together.
For those that are interested, I shoot Magnus heads...both the cheapy two blades and the stingers. (I have some buzzcuts also, but I can't resharpen them all that well.)
Anyway, I've found that touching up the factory grind on the stingers is super easy using the Rada wheel sharpener. It only take 3 to 5 slow medium pressure strokes (with tip pointed down 45 degrees) and they're really sharp.
For the black 2 blades, I have better luck with the Accusharp. Again, doesn't take too many strokes and I'm in business.
Not sure why one works better than the other for me, but that's been my experience. Luckily both can be had for under $10
QuoteOriginally posted by huntin_sparty:
And I am in for some serious hate too. Been sharpening a Woodsman for 3 hours and other than being shinier no sharper. Tried to sharpen an eclipse 4 blade for 2 hours and just keep flipping the burr from side to side! I would pay someone if I could ship broadheads and have them returned hunting sharp! I have grobet file, G5 diamond stone, smith sharpening system, KME broadhead sharpener and knife sharpener all to the same result suckyness! All on me not the products.
Has to be too much pressure that and not getting the edge right from the get go.
I use a BIG file for 3 blade broadheads (I think mine is an 18" file). Just lay 'em on the file and work each side till they're nice and flat. Then I continually lighten pressure until they're where I want them (it usually doesn't take very long).
I don't use the 'shave' test since I'm not trying to shave the animals I shoot :) . If the head will pop a rubber band with minimal effort, it's good to go.