i got a kme broad head sharpening system since i cant sharpen anything. System looks easy and basically idiot proof well ive tried it with 2 different style heads watched the utube vd multiple times and still cant get a edge. latley ive been trying to sharpen a magnus 2 blade vented any thoughts or suggestions on what i could be doing wrong?
what i do is put the broadhead in the jaws make sure your point is sticking out one side of the jaws about a 1/2 to 3/4". than I get a sharpie marker and mark both ends of the broadhead. get out the coarse stone and run your broadhead up and down the stone for about 15-20 seconds. this should create a burr on other side of broadhead. flip over broadhead and than run your head forward 10 light strokes flip head and do same on other side. then progess to 8 strokes and 6 and so on. light pressure I only put one finger right above where your broadhead sharpener flips the head. than you can progress to your finer stones. this has worked for me on my magnus stinger heads. I hope this helps if not than contact ron at KME
Yes, contact Ron at KME. He has been helping me alot.
Ron at KME is the man to speak to he will get you sorted for sure.
I had the same problem on my new vpa penetrators, it just took forever to get the right angle on the bevel. after awhile I was getting frustrated but then I went against everyones advice and with my fine stone (since I was close to getting razor sharp) I went forwards once and back once with medium light pressure. That was one stroke, I went 30 strokes on each side. One side at a time. Then once that was finished I went to ten forward strokes light pressure alternating sides every stroke. Hair shaving now. One problem might be that the KME is putting on its bevel when there was a different one from the manufacturer. I just had to be patient.
I always finish mine by stropping on a piece of corrugated cardboard. YIKES SHARP!!
I found that out of the box broadheads need a lot more material removed then you may think. So I mark them with a Sharpie as was suggested and I start with the KME on a bastard file. Takes them down pretty fast.
Then I give them a good working over with the coarse and medium stones. These two stones are really just for removing material and creating a bur. Gotta get that bur.
With the file and the first two stones I use a back and forth motion rather than just forward motion. I will do 12 or so back and forth motions per side and keep doing this until I have set the bevel (removed all the sharpie ink) and I have a good bur the whole length of the blade. Again, up to this point you are setting the bevel, removing material and creating the bur.
I put a little more pressure on when using the file and first stone, then back off a bit on the 2nd. The second stone gets back and forth a few times on each side, then, again raising the bur, I just do forward swipes a few times on each side before honing.
Then, with light pressure, I hone them. When I say light I mean it. One forward stroke per side. Maybe six or eight strokes per side.
You can then strop them on cardboard and get them hair popping sharp.
I had the same problem as you at first because I didn't believe a) how much material needed to be removed at first and b) how little pressure was needed in the end. I then sat down with Ron who told me I was real close but just needed a little tweaking. And that little tweaking was what I just explained. Now, I can sharpen anything.
HTH
i had a hard time sharpening as well, i use the knife sharpener though. idk if this is the right way but this is how i got my double bevel heads hair popping sharp. start with the course stone and work one side until it make a burr, flip the head over and sharpenteh other side until the burr is on the other side. i repeat this with less course them medium. when done with this i take a piece of card board and swipe the head on it to knock the burr off. idk if its the right/best way, but i have alot of hair missing from my leg.
Thanks very much for the help everyone! :thumbsup: Very good info from all. :clapper:
Jesse, one point I'd like to add is that vented blades flex easily and it's very easy to use too much pressure. If you'll give me a call we'll get it figured out in a few minutes on the phone. No inconvenience for me... it's my job!
Ron
800 561-4339
Ron is awesome great customer service he can get you on track!
use a file to remove as much metal as you can, basically riding along the ferrul, then switch over to the sharpening system. Now you are only working with the actual cutting edge. Use only the weight of the stones. DO NOT PUSH DOWN. you are just polishing them with progressively finer grit stones or diamonds. Andrew just did it, so you can too. :bigsmyl:
I don't bother with marking the edges of my broadheads; I sharpen by feel. I "grind" the edge on a KME coarse stone until a burr is felt along the entire edge, then flip it over and produce one on the opposite side. Once this is done it's not all that difficult to produce a hunting edge through alternating lighter strokes. The key is getting it right during the early stages of sharpening, and that means producing a burr!