I want to give my hand a try with woodies and have a ruff idea( thanks to tradgang) I shoot a 71 bear grizzly, 50@28", im flippn a MFX classic 500(9.1gpi) end of arrow to string is 27.75" with a 50gr. brass insert and a 125 magnus stinger. they fly perfact(got lucky) If i have been reading rite would a POC 11/32, 50-55spine with a 160gr up front be a start? I would start full length and cut a 1/4 at a time till i got it were i was seeing good flight? My funds are on a budget and wanted to get close as possible befor finding some woodies and BH. i hate to :deadhorse: but id sure like some help. thank you guys for your time
flippnsticks,
I am no woodie pro, so please just take this as a suggestion. I would assume the set up you describe would be underspined for the head you propose using. I would guess climbing in spine like 15 pounds would be a better bet. Just my opinion, the real pros will chime in soon I hope.
Bob.
My longbow pulls 60 and I hafta shoot 75-80 spine with BROADHEADS to get them flying right- but I'm far from a pro- that's just what works for me!
TIM B
I can go a light or heavy broad head. i want to stay in that 125gr-150gr range. I just took a guess that i need a bigger head. Thank you for your info.
If you indeed pull to near 28" I think I would bump up to 55-60 if it were me.
I shoot 50 pounds cut my arrows at 29and1/2 inches put a 160 grain Woodsman Elite and shoot 65-70 tapered cedar with 5 1/2 inch shield cut fletch.I do shoot FF string also
I will make one suggestion. Get some spruce arrows. They are as tough as carbons. You will probably be disappointed with the durability of POC. BTW I shoot a 52@28 Bob Lee with a 27" draw and shoot 28" BOP tappered 55/59 with a 125gn point. Now my bow is 3/16 past center plus the calf hair strike plate. Mine is Fast flight so I don't know exaclty how that compares to dacron.
I'd be more apt to go with 55-60 in doug fir or spruce.
thanks brothers. i have always wanted to shoot woodies but was not sure were to start.
I would shoot 55/60 cut to 28 1/2 bop with 125 up front . But have a ? Do you draw a full 28 or do you draw 27 ?
Get Stus calculator. Enter the info for your mfx set up, then change the arrow to wood and use the instructions to enter the proper numbers for the type of wood arrow you would use. Start with a 55-60, 160 point cut to 28" and play from there. POC is a bit on the fragile side compared to carbon... So the suggestion to try spruce or a harder wood is a good idea. But beware, once you go to wood, it's all you'll want to shoot!!
i would maybe use 65-70 spine and be it sitka spurce or douglas fir. and bare shaft down with the 150ish grn heads you wanna use then go from there that way if you if you leave em a tad long your still ok and aren't back at your hand with a sharp stick when you get that great adrenaline rush we all love from having game in front of you but be ware its adictive and there is no cure for this
55-60 fir or cedar is where i would start
Surewood shafts and 60-65 or 65 70
Surewoods that are douglas fir are amazing strong and straight
I made custom arrows off and on for many years. 65-70 should work perfectly...regardless of the wood species.
thanks everyone!! :notworthy:
If you want them longer than 28", I would go at least 70#. Remember, the "pound" scale was originally based on self bows, and recurves put a lot more energy into the arrow.
So if i went with a 65-70 spruce arrows and a 140gr Magnus Stinger that would be a good start?
Yup, if you cut it to 28.5"s. Add 10-15#s of spine over bows weight with a recurve cut past center and than 5#s for every inch the shaft is over 28"s and a 125 head. Bill knows his shiznic on woodies and I agree a 65-70# spine with 125-145 grain head cut to 28.5"s should be perfect! Shawn
thanks brother :notworthy:
What's a Surewood shaft and where do you get them? I too would like to try wood arrows at some point ( no pun intended) ;)
here ya go http://surewoodshafts.com/
good arrows too!
not an expert at anything, let alone woodies - however, i would recommend starting off with a surewood doug fir spine test kit as oppposed to playing with charts and software. actual shooting always trumps any kinda guestimating, and the woodie test kit can be used over and over for all yer bows, present and future. :D
ill give that a try brother. thats why i come to the pros @ !!!!!TRADGANG!!!!! :clapper:
I didn't see anyone mentioned yet but you might want to make sure whatever shafts you buy are weight-matched as well as spine-matched. Within a dozen spine-matched wood shafts you may see 100 grn weight variance! If I can, I like to spring for 100 shafts when they go on sale and then weight-match sets so you can get used to them and shoot them consistently....
Have fun!
Brett
I second what Gerardo said. Since your Grizz is pretty much center shot, you will do better by going with a heavier spine on broadheads. 60 to 65 should be about right with 125grns up front. If you go for a heavier head like a 150gr, bump it up to 65-70.
Also second the Surewood Shafts. They come incredibly straight for woodies, and are very tough. For someone who is switching over to woodies, this will be the path of least resistance and best results. Not much (if any) staightening is needed for these shafts. I've been making woodies for 28 years now - since I was 15. Wow, I'm getting ooollllddd.
ill give everything a try brothers thank you. i hope ill be flippn some wood meat missels soon :laughing:
I will say this also, my and Bills opinions are not guesses. I have experience with your bow and poundage and Bill has years and years of experience. Hate to see you spend money you don't have too. The advise on the weight and spine matched shafts is very good, as are the surewoods. Shawn