Does it make a difference in the type of target you use when bare shaft tuning, meaning layered like the block etc or should you use a bag target.
in my oppinion it does make a difference bags can give false readings blocks tend to be a little better
but for me a soft sand bank seems to work the best
other oppinions may vary but thats whats worked best for me
kevin
Not a bit - if you use the bareshaft planing method. Getting a bareshaft to fly and stick in a target perfectly straight has as much to do with form, BH, release, nock tightness and things as much as correct arrow spine.
I am a stickler for watching my bare shaft in flight more than seeing where it impacts. There are many methods that will work.
watch the bare arrow in flight and point of impact. i believe there are too many variables and false readings if you depend on how an arrow impacts a target.
QuoteOriginally posted by RUTANDSTRUT:
watch the bare arrow in flight and point of impact. i believe there are too many variables and false readings if you depend on how an arrow impacts a target.
Yep!!!
The way I understand it,, the angle the arrow sticks in the target has nothing to do with it. It's the relationship between where the feathered and bare impact.
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckwheaties:
The way I understand it,, the angle the arrow sticks in the target has nothing to do with it. It's the relationship between where the feathered and bare impact.
It does matter if you follow the correct procedures, have a consistent release, good form and use the proper target.... but most people are better off ignoring the angles and just using the differential in grouping between fletched and unfletched shafts..
Javi, you're assuming that some of us can group close enough to tell the difference between the two!
:biglaugh: :biglaugh:
I am no expert by any means, so each time I see a tuning post I check it out to see if I can learn something new. I found the target makes a difference bales are the worst. I have also heard some folks call using the angle the arrow sticks in the target as rough tuning. I use arrow flight more now and go back to bare shaft tuning. Try everything you read and see what works best for you.
Try this http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
QuoteOriginally posted by canopyboy:
Javi, you're assuming that some of us can group close enough to tell the difference between the two!
:biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Actually anyone can group well enough to tell the difference with a simple procedure... Get a cheap paper plate (8" or 10") and a plain ol' lead pencil.. Draw a 1" circle in the middle of the plate and color it in with the pencil... Tack the plate to your target bale and back off 10 yards.. Shoot a goodly number of bareshafts aiming at the colored in circle, you can do this with as little as one shaft just repeat several times.. :D Each time you pull an arrow from the target mark the hole with the pencil so you can keep track of which holes belong to the bareshafts... when you have a dozen are so holes in the plate... repeat the procedure using fletched arrows, marking those holes with a different mark than used with the bare shafts..
Tip.... Discount any shots you feel were poor releases or loss of focus.. by marking them in another manner..
When finished shooting, use your pencil to connect the bareshaft holes to form a circle... repeat with the fletched arrow holes... now compare the circles.. Repeat as needed to whatever yardage you wish..
Note: you can use different colored markers to draw the circles... makes it easier to read the differences..
What drives me nuts about bare shafting threads is there are two methods often treated as if they are one. Big mistake! We start talking about one and it morphs into talking about the other and vs versa. For example, a lot of the time a question will be about, lets say, the planing method and a response will be given that is paper tune oriented.
Confusing? I think so and it only muddles the water for those new to bare shafting.
You will drive yourself nuts if you do not understand which method is being talked about. Learn which one you want to follow, or follow both.
Try one method out at a time, to the "t"! Before going over and then trying the other method.
Then decide for yourself which one you want to use in the future or if you want to morph them together.
It is my experience that until you are very familiar with 1) the methods and 2) your tackle,
keeping tuning as simple as possible is very important.
Joshua
Great post Joshua!!
I'd say that happens at least half the time, if not more.
when i tuned my arrows for the last bow. i just grabbed full ength arrows and shot them with a few differnt wieght points and adjusted the nocking point until the arrow was hiiting where i wanted. then i fletched some up and shot and they hit right where i wanted. order some broadheads and they hit where i wanted and the flight looked great. idk if that is a good way to tune but seemed to work out. my new bow will be here soon and ill have to start tuning again. hopefully it will be as easy as last time.