Now, if there's one thing I like to make arrows out of, it's hickory. Makes a nice, durable, HEAVY shaft that flies well out of my bows. I've got an upcoming trip to hog heaven this Sept, and some heavy shafts would be just the ticket. Enter Denton Hill and Bill at Allegany Mountain Arrow woods. A quick stop by his booth produced these beauties...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/008.jpg)
640-660 grain raw hickory shafts. 85-90 spine. Should make quite the hog killers. If not, they'll sure give the local whitetails a hard time. So stay tuned, because I'm going to try a build along with these...
I will be watching this. I love arrow build alongs.
what he said :archer2:
Good start my friend!
F-Manny
Chris, Bring those puppies over, I'll get them tapered for you :readit:
Tap-tap-tap
Bowspirit, what kind of bow and what poundage are you shooting these out of?
Joe
That's not fair, I am just working on a build-along for woodies.....
Just a few things before I start. I am not toting hickory as the do-it all wood shafting to end all wood shafting, and firmly believe to each his own. There is a reason cedar and fir are the more popular choices. They straighten easily, remain straighter, have an easier to read grain, stain nicer; the list goes on. That said, if you accept that hardwoods like hickory are more work, you can produce a heavy hunting shaft of unmatched durability.
Also, I hope most of you aren't looking for any contest winners. I figured this year I'd make my arrows simple yet functional. No caps or cresting; just straighten, seal, seal again, cut, taper, and fletch. With luck, I'll pretty them up with some nice red...
QuoteOriginally posted by Joe Subler:
Bowspirit, what kind of bow and what poundage are you shooting these out of?
Joe
62 pound Kaibab longbow. I know these are heavy, but I just like heavy arrows better. It's the trajectory I've trained my brain to. Even my lighter Surewoods just break 700-grains....
I just finished my first set of Ash shafts and they ended up around 650 grains, wouldn't mind trying something a little heavier. Is that a common raw weight for Hickory?
bring it on, chris! :clapper:
Chris,
Sent you a PM
Thanks Rob and Ken. Now, on with the show...
If there is one thing to tame a stubborn shaft, it's heat. Low, steady heat. Usually, I can get a set of hickories straight with just some hand straightening. It usually takes a few rounds, but I've been pretty lucky when it comes to just palming the arrows. With this batch though, I've brought out the big guns.
A heat gun would work nice for this, but those of us on fixed incomes can just use the kitchen range. Simply isolate a bend in the shaft, and place it over medium heat, rotating the shaft so the entire section is hot to the touch.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/011.jpg)
Be careful not to scorch the shaft; any blackening or burning of the shaft creates a weak spot. Weak spots of any kind tend to work against what hickory has going for it. Not to mention, they provide a possible danger to yourself and others around you. If you want, rub some cooking oil on the bend so as to absorb the heat.
Once the bend is hot to the touch, take your palm (protected with an oven mitt of course!) and place it against the high point of the bend. Taking the back end of the shaft in your other hand, flex the end against the bend. Basically, if the bend has the front pointed off to the right, flex the back to the left.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/012.jpg)
Remember, use steady, even pressure. Trying to to too much at one time will work the bend in the opposite direction, and you'll go nuts trying to straighten these.
Sometimes, I like to incorporate a round-necked screwdriver at this point. Curt Cabrera had an excellent post on how to straighten arrows with one in the how-to section. Very helpful.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000060
Stick with it. I like to do all the major bends first, then set them aside before coming back and working on all the little dips and bends. Again, it's all about not taking on too much at once.
Now comes the process of sealing the shafts. Hickory, like all wood shafts, is susceptible to moisture. Hardwoods, however, are even more so. My first batch was sealed with a water-based poly. Sure, it dried fast and cleaned up easy. But that was it for pros. Once the elements found them, those shafts gave me more straightening fits than one would imagine. From now on, my finish is either Tru-Oil or a two part combination of Watco Danish oil and Polyurethane. Since these shafts will see a mix of stumping, targets, and hunting, I chose the latter, more durable finish.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/020.jpg)
The first thing I do is sand every shaft down with 000 steel wool. Makes for a glossy smooth surface. Then, I taper the nock end before applying the finish. While a close friend is allowing me the use of his sander, I found I could get away with the hand held tool on these shafts. You usually can. That said, a sanding taper tool of some kind works best. I used to use a Woodchuck, and was more than pleased with the results.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/023.jpg)
Chris, Looking Good My friend :readit: )
Once tapered, I apply the finish. The first is Danish oil. I choose to do a natural-colored shaft, but the oil comes in numerous shades.
My favorite method is a homemade soaktube, but for time, I'm just wiping it on as per the directions. Most folks use this stuff to bump up the weight on fir, spruce, or cedar shafts. Hardwoods don't really soak up that much, but I like it because it soaks down deep into the shaft. That's important; poly just sits on top of the shaft, giving a chance for moisture to slip in.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/027.jpg)
After two coats, I wait 72 hours for them to dry before putting on a top coat of polyurethane. So, it's going to be awhile. Be back in a few days...
I can`t wait to see the result!! :campfire:
MAY THE SPIRIT OF FRED BEAR GUIDE OUR ARROWS.
Man, I would love to try some hickory shafts....but my 45# bows wouldnt be very inspiring flingin them heavy suckers very far! Lookin good!
limbshaker,
I'm not sure how many he has in stock, but I've heard Bill carries 5/16" hickory shafts. Heard of spines like 60/65. Could be just what you need. Besides, these shafts owe alot of their heft to their spine. My 75/80 spines ran between 700 & 820 total arrow grain weight.
Still here guys. I've got a shaft started a day earlier than the rest that I'm going to finish tonight with some polyu. I just wanted to point out that I have missed some important odds & ends on arrow making. For that, I just want to point everyone in the direction of Rob DiStefano's excellent how to.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119
This thread isn't quite about making a typical set of woodies. Plenty of them around, and all great and well-done. This is more about producing a straight, quality set of hardwood arrows, and the extra care that goes in to making them.
Be back tonight...
On with the clear coat...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/031.jpg)
My favorite wood arrow finish is MinWax clear gloss polyurethane. Applied it a bunch of different ways, and my favorite was dipping in a 70:30 ratio of poly and paint thinner. Glass smooth. But a hand wiped coat works just as well.
You can do as many coats as you like over the danish oil, but I just do 6, buffing with very fine steel wool between each one. I especially favor a top coat of this stuff because every adhesive I own bonds perfectly with it. Duco and super glue just melt into it. My prefered fletch tape gave me fits when used with water-based poly, but not with polyurethane.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/029.jpg)
This shot is of a shaft sealed with polyu and danish oil, and one left bare. As you can see, the poly dulls the brightness of the bare wood. Perfect for hunting. Any shine can be cared for with a final buffing of steel wool.
Tommarrow...point tapering, nocks, and fletching the final product...
:wavey:
Looking good so far.
TTT
Excellent buddy!
I've been contemplating trying some hickory shafts myself, thanks for the exellent info!
So will fletch tape stick to polyurethane? Water based or regular? I have avoided it because I didn't think it would.
Can you put that wipe on Poly over the top of polycrylic?
TTT
Great thread Chris.Hardwood shafts can be a bear to straighten but really pack a wallop.I have used tapered maple,ash ,and laminated birch.I shoot bow weights in the 50 lb range so your 60#er would do a nice job with trajectory.Looking foward to the finished project and good luck at Muzzy. glen
Ttt
Waiting for more, great stuff :thumbsup:
Thanks for keeping this one going, Manny.
Sorry to keep you guys waiting, but my arrow making supplies are currently in Westchester with TG member Skipmaster1. That said, I've been able to make do.
Starting off from where we left off, I mark each shaft where I want them cut and wrap behind each mark with tape.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/012-1.jpg)
I usually use masking tape, but this electrical tape worked in a pinch. The tape prevents splintering of the shaft, and gives me a guide when using a hand saw. I prefer using a table saw to cut my shafts, but that's just not an option late at night.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/022-3.jpg)
With each shaft cut to length, I begin to glue on the nocks. I like to place a florescent, see-through nock on each taper before gluing on whatever nock I may be using. This enables me to be certain of the fit between nock and taper. After that, it's just a smear of Duco cement to glue them into place.
Now, my taper tool is currently not in my possession, but thanks to the owner of a local proshop, I was able to pick up a cheap used model and apply the point tapers. Gotta love those Bearpaw tools.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/008-1.jpg)
A lot of hardwoods require a grinder of sorts to cut a decent taper. IMHO, it IS the best way to go for uniform tapers. The same proshop where I picked up the taper tool used to let me use their Woodchuck grinder. But, I usually get nice, smoke-thin shavings off of hickory shafts with just a hand-held taper tool. Even Douglas fir doesn't cut as nicely.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/010-1.jpg)
Now for the fun part...the fletching.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/016.jpg)
First thing I do is liberally wipe the fletch end of each shaft with denatured alcohol to remove grease, oils, and other foreign substances. Nothing worse than being at the range, and having a feather or two pop off upon impact just because of poor adhesion.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/014.jpg)
The secret to my fletching success: a JoJan single fletcher, and Bohning fletch-tape. The tape especially. I started with glue, found the tape, went back to glue out of curiosity, and came running back to the tape. Still blows my mind on how strong a grip it can have on a shaft, yet how easily a damaged fletch can be removed. Almost doesn't make sense.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/015.jpg)
Not to mention, each feather only sits in the jig for a few seconds. No more waiting for glue to dry, or dealing with a messy clean-up.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/028.jpg)
Once each arrow is finished, I apply a dab of Duco or superglue to the ends of each fletch. This prevents the feathers from "shifting". The movement used to undo the helical on my fletching. Between thorough cleaning and the dabs of glue, this problem has ceased.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/020-1.jpg)
There we have it. One finished product, complete with 4, 5-inch feathers. Like I said earlier, I'm not out to win any contests. As evidenced by many of the other woodie threads, I wouldn't anyway. But I just wanted a plain, functional arrow that can "take a licking and keep on ticking", as well as plow through both sides of whatever I'm shooting at. Besides, I'm kind of fond of the plain wood hue with all white feathers and nock.
:bigsmyl:
As proof of there durability, this is a 160-grain field point on a hickory arrow.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/025-1.jpg)
What you can barely see, due to my poor picture-taking skills, is that the tip is severely flattened. That's all the damage that came from two dozen shots into 3 pieces of 1/2" plywood. All shots were at 10 yards, from broadside to "never-shooting-at-a-deer-from-this-angle" quartering away. Afterwards, it was shot into a cinder block for good measure. That blew off the nock, but that was it. Between all that, plus beating the shaft back out the plywood with a hammer, I'm pretty happy with it.
So, I guess that's it. Over the next few days, I'll post some more on this thread. Final tuning, pics of the finished dozen, mounting broadheads, and I suppose some more torture testing for the fun of it.
Like I said, these hickories aren't the second coming. Cedar and fir have better tolerances for straightness, and once they begin to bend, they can be a pain to straighten back into line. But with a little elbow grease, they make a shaft of great heft and durability that flies with the best of them. At the very least, they make one heck of a stumper/ small game arrow.
Very nice arrows, thanks for sharing.
Well, today was a good day. After some bare-shaft testing, I got my arrows flying spot on with some Magnus I 2-blades. With a friends help (thanks Ron W), we were able to weigh one of my finished arrows. It turned out to be around 825-grains for total arrow weight. Pig medicine, for sure.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/036.jpg)
825 gr........from a 62# bow...OH Baby.......
Good job Chris. They should look nice going through one of the hogs you will shoot in a couple of weeks.
Good luck to you and Drew.
Deadly looking arrow!
Great job and good luck to you and Drew!
F-Manny
Nice job Chris. I may have to make up a batch now..
Btw, your tackle box is with me, so say when and we can meet up.
nice job , they look great and at 825 they should penetrate like crazy. Good luck :thumbsup:
825 gr :scared: I feel sorry for those pigs, nice job Chris :thumbsup:
The finishing post on this thread...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/bowchild_2008/008-3.jpg)
A well-straightened, sealed, and tuned hickory arrow is as capable as anything else out there. Grouping was done from 20 yards. I think I'm ready for the pigs...