is there anyone out there that I can send a longbow to to get the handle cut in 1/2 and then install a Takedown system that is not a sleeve type but something reliable.
Bow is an older 54# Aleghany mountain Bow that has the hybrid/recurve style grip,, bow is an older bow that I don't use that much but I need a takedown or Two nowadays.
thanks for any info.
Ted,
Check with Joe at Prairie Traditions or Chuck at Two Tracks. I'm sure either could help you out. I should add that both are probably at Dentons this weekend for the big trad gathering.
Bill
Bill thank you for the info,, wish i could be at ETAR myself but work said no to that deal..
I will e-mail them and see what they say,, thank you for the info and you have a great weekend..
T
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
I explored this possibility a year ago. Although I didnt contact anyone mentioned above the general response was that most people wouldnt do it solely for the risk and cost involved. No one wanted to be responsible for bow failure.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Check with Dick in Seattle, I think he did a build along where he did it himself. You may have to do a search or go to his web site. I hope this helps.
I have made one of my hill longbow a t/d here a pic (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/deanfamilyalbum/c891ef7c.jpg) (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/deanfamilyalbum/915e5fc1.jpg) and it not hard to do
Some types of takedown connection are only suitable for installation when the bow is being constructed, but others (such as the hinge connection on Ray's bow) can be added later if the riser style is appropriate for its use. I have some misgivings as to whether your bow has a riser that would be conducive to a hinge or a sleeve connection, which are the ones most easily added to existing bows. If I were in your situation, I would be looking for a used takedown bow in your price range. Obviously, the classified section would be a good place to start, and a nice 3 piece bow would probably be the easiest to find.
Allan
Also the draw weight , some t/d you dont won't go over 55lb if your adding it to and older bow .
Hmm makes sense that most would avoid this due to risk so maybe I'l, have to try it myself like Ray did. the riser is pretty big I guess with the same dimensions as a one piece recurve with a medium grip,, the riser is pretty much solid Osage with maybe 3 thin accents going through.
as for the weight the bow I made a mistake before and it is marked 57@29 but I draw 27" so I should be pulling 51#....
finally I'm waiting for some pics of a treadway black forest T/D that is right in my price range so if this alleghany never gets cut in half its okay I guess.
Ray where did you get that Bow hinge and can you give me the basics of the work,, what tools did you use.
I'm not Ray, but you can find it at Kustom King Archery at the following link.
http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Take-Down-Kits/products/116/
Bill
From Kuston king the tool are list with the kit take about 1 hour to do
Many bowyers offer an after market service,but you can find also some do yourself kits.
I just retrofitted a similar style bow with a limb bolt and love it. What type of accents run through the handle? Are they glass, wood, etc?
Another option is the connection that Big Jim does.
Either would work very well will that type of riser.
The Conextion hinge is really easy to install. Put one on a 70+lb Great Northern Bushbow with no problems. I would STRONGLY recommend a drill press with a good vise for accurate holes. beyond that there is nothing to it.
The limb bolt should only be used with bows having a fairly big riser and preferably with a riser made of phenolic. If used on a too small of a riser, after the holes are drilled for installation of the two halves of the riser the walls will be too thin and will eventually break under the forces of drawing and shooting a bow. It may take awhile, but there is a pretty high probability of breakage. This is especially true of a bow not built to handle the limb bolt.
Bill
Raptor Archery does this as well. I was in there last week and he was just finishing up one. It looked real nice.
there are more than a few non-sleeve 2pc t/d systems that could be used to convert a 1pc stick bow. imo, the "easier" of them to install is the connexion hinge, the "hardest" is the bow bolt. there's some good stuff at dick wightman's site on installing the connexion to a completed longbow.
this is pic of the riser
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1992/alleghanymtnbow002.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/43/alleghanymtnbow002.jpg/)
[[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/alleghanymtnbow001.jpg/] (http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/959/alleghanymtnbow001.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/alleghanymtnbow003.jpg/)
I have a drill press over at my fathers house,,, does the part come with a template and di you guys have to buy a pice of vaneer for where the wood meets when together. I'm more worried about having one section slightly turned and then have that "twisted limb" effect. also It looks like the accent is Maple/Osage/Maple.
like to try this one though.
That type of riser may not be condusive to converting to a takedown. I would just buy a used takedown bow instead of taking the chance of messing up a good bow.
Contact Mike Yancy at Pine Hollow,, he may be able to help you.
thanks again for the tips and info on who installs these,,,I am still looking into this because I don't really use this bow too much but it would be cool to leave behind my truck seat broken down and a good spare,, I have a treadway on its way for me to try too thanks to one of you which I'm looking forward to shooting and a few other people have something forsale on the back burner that fits what I am looking for in a 2-piece T/D..
I have a pair of super shrews that have been converted to take downs with the connexion hinge. I bought one used with the hinge installed and did the other one myself. I have been using these bows for several years until I upgraded to bow bolt takedowns on some new bows 2 years ago. My son shoots them now.
I did a trial run on a real cheap bow I picked up on the auction site and I am glad I did. I tried to countersink the hinge into the handle for a more sleek and aesthetically appealing look. It looked great, right up until it blew up/exploded in my hands at full draw. You cannot violate the back of the bow. The hinge needs to be installed on top of the glass to be safe. The shrew grip/riser is not as big as many other bows but still big enough to make into a takedown if you are careful. Good luck.