im thinking of switching to a simmons tree shark since they are so wide im thinky of cutting my arrows down so when im at anchor the back of the shark is touching my nuckle on my bow hand. i remember my pap shooting this way.he said 2 ref points are better than one its like using a clicker it just always scared me i would over draw and cut myself but i believe the sharks are wide anough to avoid this what is your thought on this
matt in pa :dunno:
I think when the big buck walks in front of you and you get all excited you might going to get some stitches in your finger. I would'nt do it. But thats just me.
I have tried it and when the head hits my finger it totaly disrupts my concentration. It just does not work for me.
Buff a membmer on this site uses this method i beleave and very well i might add. You might just give it a try and see how it works for you.
Fred Bear shot that way.You would just have to try one and see how it works for you.If your arrows are tuned now,cutting will stiffen them and your new head would have to be heavy enough to compensate for that.
i just thought since those sharks are so wide that it would be real hard to overdraw enough to jump and cut yourself.
I'd rather use my normal anchor point.
i would still use my anchor in the corner of my mouth but i have a habit of bending my elbow more somtime and believe i could use the feel of the broadhead as a another draw check.
I shot this way for a longtime just as a third anchor point until one day with a nice buck trotting in front of me chasing a doe I over drew the bow pulling arrow off the string. It was not fun when I released!! so I don't do that any more but did work for a long while.
And if you are so excited that you overdraw a little bit. The arrow nock comes off the string and your arrow falls to the ground.
Been doing that for years, for me it works better with cedar arrows. It takes a few practice shots to learn to squeeze the arrow to full draw and then release. I find it to be a confidence builder because I know when I am my at full draw form.
I would have a hard time doing that, my arrows are 29'' BOP and I draw 27''......stabow
This method has proven its worth in the past, however the looming possibilies of consequences seem to remain obscure. I don't wish to be the example. There are other effective and safer options available.
Note: Hitting full draw does not ensure proper alignment.
I would not want to do that with an Abowyer BH, they are razor sharp on the back side!
Be careful not to pull the nock off the string!
Thigthen the nock a bit harder before you even start if not it will sooner or later become expencive when you dryfire your bow..
Just dont sharpen the back uv em {he he} Ouch !!
I also don't care for this method of draw checking, although I do digress to many notable archers who used it. I believe a better method would be to align your feather to hit your nose if you need a physical draw check.
Just went out testing the use of back of bh as a "clicker" and with my 150 grain silverheads its very functional:)
I just tightened the nock so its more heavy on the string and no problem at all.
But I have to admit that I was thinking..what if the string is damaged right now...31.5 drawlength 54# bow... Goodbye index finger :eek: :D :help:
When I first switched to trad my draw length lengthened over an inch as I learned to expand towards release.
That brought my broadhead very very close to tapping the back of my riser, which worried me that I would overdraw on a buck and end up either dryfiring or driving the arrow through my hand.
I got new arrows. Things happen in the field and effectively making it more likely my blood is drawn from my arrow than my quarry isn't on my agenda.
I was doing that for a while. I think it would be REALLY hard to over draw your bow and cut yourself unless you got big arms and a wimpy bow.
You have to tweak your arrows to get the length right. Back tension will bring you that last 1/8 to quarter inch and there won't really be opportunity for the unfounded problems mentioned above.
Been hearing the old fear of overdrawing a broadhead forever.
I've got a couple of questions about it...
1.What is the bow weight that is so easy to "accidently" overdraw by an inch or more?
B.Do other people not touch their anchor point,but pull the bow toward their ear when in front of game or what?
If you over draw with an extra long arrow, the chances are that the shot will not only go high it will also go off line because it was either not pulled to the cheek or there is some serious off line rotation going on. A more common problem is tucking into the shot too far and under drawing which will cause a low hit and still the possibility of being somewhat off line. It is really very easy to stop the draw at the slightest touch from the broadhead on the finger. It just takes a few practice shots to get the feel of it.
thanks for the replies i believe it better than one refrence point my pap shot like this for years intill his passing he was they best shot i ever seen i will still use the featheras a primary anchor but the broadhead will make sure i dont lean in with my bow arm i have a problem of bending my bow ram more sometimes witch even with my feather touching my nose and anchored to the corner of my mouth still short draw myself without realizing it. i was just always scared of over drawing and cutting myself but with these wider sharks a dont thingk i have to worry
the way i think i will try it is draw to my back anchor like always then while im focusing on my spot slowly titen up my back till i just feel th e back of the head then release the only problem i see is how to pratice with this with field points. my pap always shot with broadheads he always said thats what i hunt with so why bother with anything else.
There are other ways to get a second reference point.....
I don't like using the equipment to do so...head touching or feather to nose. I use a double anchor...so know matter what/whos bow...or what/whos arrow...I do not have to worry about 'stuff' touching me. I also don't like the distraction of 'countin' on stuff to touch me.
Once you groove in a double anchor, ...its there for life.
Charlie....believe it or not...YES...I know someone that did overdraw like that once...and he dry fired his bow, broke his arrow, and was thankful the bhead didn't come back and kill him. :biglaugh:
I don't think the important part is as a double anchor but a SENSUAL-based mental stimulus. If a person understands the concept of a clicker this is a "feel-based" clicker as opposed to "audio-based" clicker but you so have to train yourself in the proper usage of the technique..
Steve understands the concept. A draw check, whether clicker or broadhead is used to assure full extension and lack of creep in the shot.
The arrow should be cut so that anchor is reached with no problem. The last 1/16" of draw should require just a little extra tension in the back and shoulders.
Soon as the broadhead touches the finger or the clicker clicks the arrow is released.
Major help for those who tend to snap shoot or have trouble with target panic/buck fever.
Terry... I think your friend needed a heavier bow.
:D
You better be shooting so your elbow is pointing straight back to be initially set up in the right configuration so that it will even be possible for back tension to be used to "trigger" the shot.
Over the years I have had many well intentioned (but wrong) archers think that a "clicker" was for precise draw length but that is only an incidental benefit and not of foremost concern.
As a side note, yep Charlie, a few of that have been around Mrs. Hoyt, err I man ANN know about such things! (BTW, Ann chewed my A$$ once for callig her Mrs. Hoyt) Oopps! Actually I do mean EARL this time as Earl once told me that Ann was the ONLY archer that he ever witnessed that could perform world class archery (talking Olympic stuff here) without a clicker, her form was that flawless. I'm just sure that is why he married her!
1. Middle finger to mouth corner.
2. Index finger base knuckle to cheekbone.
Double spot your anchor and it does stick with you.
Repetition ensures it's there without thinking.
my broad head touches the back of the shelf ,put a piece of felt to protect the finish.i know im at full draw.
Your draw length can still vary with a double anchor, I have always used a double anchor. Slight changes in open stance can produce varied draw lengths, the bow shoulder jamming up or goose necking can change the draw length more than most realize. It was said that Hill drew to the back of the head. Quite often in the videos, one can see him draw a bit short, not reaching his finger to the broadhead draw length, perhaps that is why short recurves did not work as well for him. I would think that one is really jerking on the draw if one could jerk the arrow off the string on broadhead contact. I shoot pretty fast and it is not a problem for me. But like I said before it easier with woods, they are easier to get the length exactly right.