:help: What is the best way to stay in a groth ring on a pc of osage?
you have to watch for a change in color between rings, it's very slight. You might want to ask this over on the Bowyers Bench...a lot of real good guys over there that really know their stuff!
Thanks, i'll get over there.
Have Ed Scott do it. :D
Just kidding. Like Ron said, check out Bowyers bench and you might also want to go over to the Primitive Archery forum. Quite a few folks cross over between here and there and they have a lot of good knowledge to share. There are some Osage specialists there too.
With the time a guy or gal can put into a selfbow, I'd almost be better off letting Ed Scott do it.
Try Paleo Planet and Primitive Archer. Lots of talented self bowyers willing to help!!!!!
Very slowly!
Pick your ring and go slow. Don't want a razor edge on your draw knife.
What JAG said! Also, you can feel the difference. Good luck and take your time!
Learn to hear the difference in the sound of your tool being used.
I always loved the crunchy sound as it meant I was in the right place.
God bless,Mudd
PS: I still miss the making of "yallar" buggers...lol
I found using the draw knife with the bevel down and going very slow helps me chase a ring. I am also using a scraper to help chase the ring I want when I get close. Unlike others, I like a sharp draw knife. I just go slow and control the bevel. I'm working on a stave that the growth rings are very tight. Slow going but getting it done.
Use a good scraper. Its hard to damage a growth ring with a scraper. You almost can't go to slow. Pup
Thanks for the Info. I'm getting back after it befor it gets to hot. I guess I could bring it in the house with the A/C, while the wife is at work. NOT. (lol).
Yep...bevel down on a rather dull drawknife is the trick for me. Also, you should work the near end of the stave down to the desired growth ring for a few inches first, then progressively work away from you. That way you won't hack off too much at one time. I don't have a good picture, but imagine starting at the close end of the pictured stave below and gradually working your way toward the far end. Third, once you hit the early wood, it'll feel/sound like Rice Krispies. It's very hard to miss, depending on your ring thickness. A scraper or knife blade works good at this point to clean off this layer to reveal the late growth back ring. Lastly, you don't want the stave any wider than necessary, especially if there are undulations in the rings (i.e. dips, high spots). This can be particularly tough to work around on wide staves. Using the curved edge of a pocket knife often is a good way to remove wood around high/low spots. You can also make a tool specifically to the shape you need by grinding an old hacksaw/Sawzall blade. Hope this helps! Get yourself a stave and visit us over on the Bowyers' Bench...plenty of us willing to help you out :)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Flatbow%20For%20Steve%2009/HPIM3291.jpg)
That is not even fair showing a stave with rings like that. I just chased my frist complete ring this morning and if I had rings that thick I think I could chase it with a garden hoe. Mine were more like a 1/20". All the same a scraper made from an old metal kitchen spatula did the trick. All about the sound and feel of the early wood, plus the scraper will ride on top of the late wood if your carefull.
Yea I wish the staves I have had looked like that one....lol!
Chase the ring outside in direct daylight.
That's some good old southwest Iowa, home-grown hedge there, boys! I grew up in the best whitetails woods in the country, and it just so happens to be chocked full of osage. Getting my butt out there to cut and split it is another matter altogether!