I've read the posts about chronographs with interest. I try to evaluate different bows that I like. I find it difficult to be objective.
I'm going to compare various limbs and bows. My first test will be 2 pairs of Habu limbs. I can use this with a PCP air rifle as well.
I bought the "pro" model from Cabelas because it has a larger shooting lane.
I'm wondering if they are initially calibrated? Any tips on use?
Thanks
Mine came calibrated. You can also use them to help refine your form or so I did. And to see the differances between a dead and dynamic release. Chrones are a good tool if you'll use it.
Roy,
I've never heard of having to calibrate a chronograph before, but I realize there may be some out there that possibly could have to be.
I have a very good, accurate chronograph that I've been using for many years. I've used it for everything including testing reloads, compound bows, trad bows........you name it, and I've probably shot it through my chrono.
The biggest thing about getting accurate results is that you must be consistent with how far you draw each arrow when comparing speed results of various bows. Makes a big difference. If you're getting very erratic readings from one arrow to the next, then something is wrong somewhere. Either you don't have the proper lighting, or your arrows are way off in weight from each other, or you're draw length isn't very consistent or something. Many people tend to overdraw their bow when shooting through a chrono, sometimes even without realizing it.
Also, I like to get back only about two or three feet from the chrono when shooting bows through it so I can know exactly where my arrow will be passing over it and also so I won't hit the chrono when I shoot! ;)
Best tip would be - don't shoot the chrono!
Sounds silly, but I've seen a lot of chrono repairs from being hit while in use.
Mine is red in color, so I call it the little red heart breaker. because most bows are not as fast as we think they are.
However, I do love testing with a chronograph because it is fun and enlighting.
If yours does not come with an indoor light kit, you will need to use it outside for best results. Even with the light kit they seem to work best outside most of the time.
Tough to get real accurate numbers unless you build a shooting machine also. Too much happens when trying to shoot with fingers, creep, inconsistent anchor,bad realease, good release. Let us know how ya make out! Shawn
Looking forward to the results. Hope you can test a bunch. Thanks for your effort.
Lighting is the biggest cause of error..............one lens in shade the other in sun. And do set your expectations way down in terms of useful info. But it is worth 100 bucks.
A shootin machine can be built for less than 50.00, it takes all the guess out of it,you can even measure exact draw on each shot if you want.........
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/001-2.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/002-1-1.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/003-1.jpg)
The bowholder with tarp strap :p
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/003-2.jpg)
Excellent info guys! I am planning to use it outdoors because I've heard about that light business. I am a form freak so it will be fun to also see if I'm as consistent as I think I am.