Just got the Kme Bh sharpener. In the past I had always sharpened my BH's with a file.
Heres the question. I am sharpening Magnus 1's
I put a sharpie marker line on the cutting edge of the broadhead.
I started with course, then went to med and fine stones. But there is one small spot about 1/4" wide in the center of the cutting edge of the broadhead that I cannot get to sharpen it is this way on all 3 broadheads I have sharpened and on both sides. I know its not sharp in that spot because the sharpie mark is still there, the rest of the boradhead though is razor sharp.
Is this because I have not gotten the angle that the kme provides through the whole length of the broadhead, or am I doing something incorrectly? Should I put it back on the course stone and keep going until the sharpie marker is gone and then go to the next stone?
Thanks,
James
James yes you have the awnser to your question you have to remove the whole sharpie line or roll the entire edge before switching sides.You are essencetially changing the factory bevel.
Once it's sharp you won't have to remove nearly as much metal the second time around.
And when you are removing a lot of metal it is always better to use a file. Redo the bevel best you can with the file, then set it exactly with the course stone.
Yeah, I think the file is what got me in trouble in the first place though. With my patience I think it would be most beneficial to me if I were to use the course stone and set it that way.
Thanks for your responses guys.
James
James,
It's less a question of angle than it is straightening and flattening the coarse ground factory bevels. As you're experiencing, this initial sharpening (grinding) will require some work on most traditional glue on heads the first time you sharpen them. After that initial "out of the pack" sharpening, touch-ups/resharpening will be much faster and easier.
If you use a file to get them started (which we highly recommend) use the file at a very low angle (just missing the ferrule) and concentrate on the laminated tip section. The main blade is much thinner and will come up quickly once the tip section is done.
The ink you're seeing in the center of the blades is telling you that the tip and heel of the blade are touching the stone correctly but the center is still being held above the stone. Take some metal off the tips (with a file) and you'll quickly see that ink in the center disappear. Don't leave the coarse stone till the BHD is shaving, then refine with finer grits and finish by stropping on a piece of plain brown corrugated cardboard. Give me a call if you need some help. Thanks,
Ron
800 561-4339
Trust yourself to the master in ole Ron.
He drug me kickin outa the dark ages of sharpening impaired to "look at me bleed now!"
Trust what he tells you...awkward it might feel... go Nike and --- Just do IT! :)
Just the best!!
Thanks Ron and all,
I will work on it some more. I did get one ground down with the course stone. But it took some time. I tend to want to put a little too much pressure on it to cut of that factory angle.
James
QuoteOriginally posted by Sharpster:
.... Don't leave the coarse stone till the BHD is shaving, then refine with finer grits and finish by stropping on a piece of plain brown corrugated cardboard....
Ron is THE MAN on this.
Just wanted to reinforce this particular bit as it alluded me for way too long.
QuoteOriginally posted by jamesh76:
Thanks Ron and all,
I will work on it some more. I did get one ground down with the course stone. But it took some time. I tend to want to put a little too much pressure on it to cut of that factory angle.
James
Yea, since sharpening is actually grinding on a micro level, logic would suggest that pushing harder will get it done quicker...BUT, it really doesn't work like that. You can push a little (ounces, not pounds) when the heads are new and the primary goal is stock removal but the better choice is to use a file or the coarsest stone you can get your hands on. Speed and repetition will always get far better results than increased pressure. Thanks to all!!
Ron
Great product and you can't beat Ron's customer service. He is always lurking on this site and anxous to answer questions and point his followers in the right direction. Thats why so many on this site are "KME Sharp". :deadhorse:
It says that the Woodsman elites come KME sharpened out of the package. As I have read the KME sharpener is for 2 blades only. Does Ron have something else to sharpen 3 blades or just a special way?
I had a similar issue and later figured out the head was bent! Most folks would've figure it out quicker but just in case we are cut from the same cloth... :D