These pics are from the other day, and today. For my set up #57 TIP non FF calculator says 2117 (yellow nocks) 30" 190 grn point . For the 2020 , 29 1/2 190 point.
These shafts are all 29.5 with 125 grn point weight. Distance to target was appro 18 yrds. Turkey target fell over (dirt in nocks). I'm confused any thoughts suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1600.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1610.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1625.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1627.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1629.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j297/treeyelpr/100_1634.jpg)
I suspect you have one or more numbers in some of the boxes in Stu's calculator wrong.
As an example, I helped a person who was shooting a 2114 Camo Hunter aluminum arrow. The weight he was using for the nock end weight was 10 grains.
Camo Hunter arrows come with Easton Super Nocks which weigh 13 grains and they also come with a Super Uni bushing which weighs 7 grains for a 2114 Camo Hunter so the correct nock end arrow weight is 20 grains.
Combine this with other incorrect data in other boxes and the calculator will be way off.
Night Wing,
Thank you my friend. Side plate thickness and - 3 /16 not 3/16 make a huge difference
:thumbsup:
I would say you are a tad stiff yet and could use a little more point weight .
MJB,
The center cut/strike plate position box really throws lots of people for a loop. You're not the first it's done it to with incorrect data and you won't be the last.
From your photos, if the broadhead tipped fletched arrows hit in the same place as your field tipped fletched arrows, leave well enough alone.
One thing I see is that his Bare shafts are not capped or wrapped like his fletched arrows, even though that is 7-15 grains difference it can make a difference.
MJB,
Let us know how you come out.
Would be intersesting to see how your final set-up bareshafts at 25 yards.
Best of luck!
I agree with drewsbow, it appears to be a little stiff. Try going up one point weight.
-Stu
If that bow is actually cut to -3/16", don't forget to ADD the thickness of that rug plate to it!
How's about you ignore the damn calulator altogether.....
Folks've been tuning bows & arrows for millennia without the use of a computer. You can see how your arrows are flying now, just adjust to suit.
If it don't agree with the calculator, so what?
Mike, I think all spine charts and calculators should just be considered starting points for those who don't have a clue. There's so much individual variation in how we shoot the bows that there's no way to cover everybody in a generality. If I can get a bare-shafted arrow to shoot where I'm looking at 18 yards, I'm happy as a dead pig in the sunshine. Go with what works! Them turkeys won't stand a chance.
I have to Agree with RobTattoo!
Calculators can be helpful for general info but I agree that you can't take them for gospel. Considering all the variables, which no calculator can, is important. What about your particular shooting style (release, hand position, where your pressure on the grip sits, differences in tension or lack of tension shot to shot)? I'd stick with the info above. Use the calculator to get general, let the arrow flight tell you what point weight to use or what other tweaks you should try to get excellent arrow flight. Just my cent and a halfs worth.
TomBow
Sorry but Stus calculator may get ya close and it may not. I know what perfect flight is and when I have tried it ecsp. with carbons sorry not real close. If you can find an old chart from Arrows by Kelly follow that for aluminum and wood he will get ya balls close. I think with 190 up front and a 30" bop arrow you would need maybe a 2219 but I am not great with aluminum, carbon I could get ya there. Shawn
To add to what has been said I would offer that you can't calculate form and release. If I read it right looks like you are shooting a stiffer arrow than it calls for in the calculator. Plucking will make a stiff bare shaft shoot like it is tuned or weak. Cut past center bows have a greater tolerance for spine. An over stiff arrow can push off the riser and look tuned if you are a consistent shooter with a good release. With carbons I am always having to set-up with a weaker arrow than shown in the calculator. I don't know about aluminum, but I have never used a stiffer arrow than required in the calculator and not had an over stiff arrow showing false weak or false tuned.