I want to internally foot some Sitka Spruce shafts for a student to use on an elk hunt this fall, the main goal is to increase the finished arrow weight to approximately 575-600 grains while using a 160 grain head..
The raw 32" 60# - 64# shafts I have vary from 318 to 376 grains. I haven't applied the lacquer yet but I expect it to add another ½ to 1 GPI so assuming a BOP of 29" which would require approximately a 30" shaft we're at about 11.6 GPI X 30 = 348 grains for bare shaft...
348 + 160= 508
508 + 10 grains for a nock = 518
518 + 10 grains for 3 5" shield cut TrueFlight feathers = 528 grains so I need to add 50-75 grains and we're home..
Of course these are rough estimates and I don't expect exact answers but my questions are...
1. 1/8" brass welding rod weighs how many GPI
2. Assuming 25 GPI I would need 3" of brass rod... How much would this affect dynamic spine.. Would it be the equivalent of using a 200 grain BH or something less..
3. Since I've never experiment with high FOC with Sitka Spruce, how does it react to the heavier point weight..
Try the simple route first by putting either lead shot or sinkers inside the point before you apply them to the shafts. Ofcourse you would want to melt them inside the point, let cool then glue them to your shafts. Might be worth a try, and you don't have to drill any holes in hour shaft.
Your first consideration is shaft length and spine requirement. You may be better off in just ordering Surewood shafts in the spine you need. If you are dipping, each dip will add about 15 gns depending on product. You also have a 60 gn variance in raw shaft weight you could simply order the new shafts and specify the weight range you want.
QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Vines:
Try the simple route first by putting either lead shot or sinkers inside the point before you apply them to the shafts. Ofcourse you would want to melt them inside the point, let cool then glue them to your shafts. Might be worth a try, and you don't have to drill any holes in hour shaft.
I could just use the 200 grain points I have for testing purposes but that really wouldn't answer my real question.... how does the internal footing affect the dynamic spine and how does the increase in FOC affect the flight on Sitka Spruce shafts..
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Your first consideration is shaft length and spine requirement. You may be better off in just ordering Surewood shafts in the spine you need. If you are dipping, each dip will add about 15 gns depending on product. You also have a 60 gn variance in raw shaft weight you could simply order the new shafts and specify the weight range you want.
The weight variance is over 100 shafts.. I would pick shafts that are within 5 grains for the dozen I'll make him..
I thought about ordering heavier mass weight shafts but that won't increase FOC it would actually decrease it..
In my experience, the internal footing has less effect on dynamic spine than simply adding point weight to the tip.
The brass rod I have weighs in at 22 grains per inch.
QuoteOriginally posted by Braveheart Archery:
In my experience, the internal footing has less effect on dynamic spine than simply adding point weight to the tip.
The brass rod I have weighs in at 22 grains per inch.
That is what I was thinking, so maybe I won't be wasting my time to add a 2" brass rod to these 60-64's and still be able to shoot them.. without going up to 65-69's...
i've internally footed many dozens of arrows. i do it for basically one reason - stiffen and make more durable the vulnerable area just behind the point. if i wanna add weight, i do that with a 2.5" common iron nail, about 55 grains. to just stiffen that area, i use bamboo bbq skewer. i always use slow set epoxy to make the bond.
Thanks... I think I'll give it a try...
Mike, I just footed some 60-65s that are surewoods with the internal footing jig from 3 Rivers. I was able to put in about 2 inches of steel rod bought from Lowes that fit the drill bit that came with the jig that weighed about 75 gr total. I asked for Heavy 60-65s from Surewood and with a 160 gr tip I am right at 700 grains. My Talltines longbow loves this arra, and I can't be more happy. I followed Mr DiStefano's instructions on the "how-to" and now have a heavy wood arra for elk :)
QuoteOriginally posted by wapiti792:
Mike, I just footed some 60-65s that are surewoods with the internal footing jig from 3 Rivers. I was able to put in about 2 inches of steel rod bought from Lowes that fit the drill bit that came with the jig that weighed about 75 gr total. I asked for Heavy 60-65s from Surewood and with a 160 gr tip I am right at 700 grains. My Talltines longbow loves this arra, and I can't be more happy. I followed Mr DiStefano's instructions on the "how-to" and now have a heavy wood arra for elk :)
What size is that drill bit? And were they 11/32 shafts?
A common nail (ten penney?)cut just behind the flat will give you a little over 90grs, but you have to drill 3 inches very tough to do. Brass is good but lead is better at adding weight per inch just not adding any durability. 1.5inches of lead will get you where you want. I have the grain weights per inch at home. The internal drill jig works great but drill carfully and straight. I like the added front weight on my poplar shafts.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/Footed%20Arrows/DSCF0365.jpg)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/Footed%20Arrows/DSCF0366.jpg)
The bit that comes with the jig is 9/64", which allows for a 1/8" rod to slide in and still have a little room for glue.
We still have some 6" drill bits around here somewhere which makes it easier to go a little deeper but even with those 3 to 4 inches is the practical limit. If somebody needs one PM me as they are no longer on the web site.
Thanks..
I have a Shopsmith, so I set it up and use the six inch drill bit and foot with a 4 1/2" piece of 1/8" brass rod. Have been happy with the results.
I too use a longer drill bit than what came with the kit. I can get 2 -2 1/4 piece of 1/8 inch steel in there pretty easy. Good luck!